hey there guys,i have a 95 gsr integra with a b18c1 and gsr lsd transmission. i am looking into building the motor and chassis now that i was hit by a drunk driver and i am on disability and not working now. my goals are to get into the high to mid 12s to give some mustangs/camaros a good look at my rear bumper. i have an all stock b18c1 right now with 90k on it and i have my gsr trans that has a crack in the bell housing so i will be pulling that to replacee bell housing. i am looking for some help finding honda shops near my area to assit with my build. i have access to a machine shop and plenty of time. i am wonder if i should fully build the gsr(yes internals and head work) or if i should buy a b20 block and start building that and use my gsr head for a b20 vtec. or if i should go poor mans type r. has anyone run these setups before? do you know what parts you ran hp and tq levels? and 1/4 mile time of course. als do you know of any reputable shops in the bay area? i would like not to sleeve the b20 if i go that route but what im really trying to figure out is how mush power i can milk out of my gsr. or should i go b20 vtec for a drag motor/ sometimes dd thanks guy all help is appreciated

 

Do some searching for the h2b setup. A stock h22 can be found for around 600 and with some bolt ons and tune make enough power to get a street Integra into the 12s with a good driver and slicks.

Otherwise if you stick to a b series, you could do some 12:1 pistons and good rods, a skunk2 pro 3 cam and matching valve train . And it will need a tune, a good header, good flowing exhaust. You will have to be on point with driving and again run slicks.

You could go either way but there's nothing like dependability of a stock motor with a lot more torque than the GSR will get even with some light work.

 

Sleeve the GSR to 84mm or more
At least 11.5:1 compression
Port work/valve job
Big cams
GREAT tune
Good header
Good IM
Maaayyybe rods, but you shouldnt need them

 

thanks for the answers guys. i was looking into doing everything just leaving the crank stock and minimal boring of the cylinder walls stoke bore if possible. i will be on point with my driving, also im looking into 23x8.5 slicks.im really not trying to go h series i like my b

 

If you're not willing to go H2B, then I would turbo your car.

If you want to compete with the newer base model V8 Mustang and Camaro, you need mid 12's. To accomplish this with a B motor, it's gonna take a helluva lot more than honing your existing block to 81.5. Even with a B20, you will need extensive head work and big cams to get you 12.90's.

Displacement(H) or boost. You pick.

 

Search username "SOLODC".. Andrew's setup is quite possibly one of the best setups for a GSR to do 12's.

 

The other option could be cams & valve train a refresh on the GSR bottom and a stealth 100 shot of nitrous. It's perfect for surprising those muscle cars especially when they don't see the bottle, lines or a purge before the start.
As far as na goes it's going to be tough with a small b. don't get me wrong I'm building a 98mm b series right now, but that h22 in stock form is very tough to beat especially for the cost. And these wild b motors are normally a far cry from a street able engine. Working on the h isn't any worse than a GSR, parts are about the same cost and availability wise.

I'm getting ready to put a h23vtec motor into a 95 rs Integra for a fun little street car, with a GSR trans they haul ***. Typically easy 12s with a tune and slicks.

 

Would it be safe to say before we get too in dpth with suggestions we can establish what kind of budget you want to wrk with?

 

Budget isn't an issue. Can someone tell me where to get h2b parts (adapter and motor mounts) or bore my gsr and sleeve it or fully built b20vtec sleeved. I found a h23 for 750$. Or use my gsr motor to build the b20. But h2b is starting to look way better

 

Get H2B conversion from QSD
Hasport or Avid mounts can be had from ebay
PLM makes a cheap H2B Header
Hondata s300 from Xenocron
Kaizanspeed manual timing belt tensioner, balance shaft eliminator, alternator relocation bracket
OEM Honda Timing belt and water pump.
ACT or CC clutch and flywheel for B-series

Skunk2 H to K intake manifold adapter
k-series RBC intake manifold
RDX injectors

 

How does the h23a blue top sound?

 

do i have to do an h2b swap or can i use the h23a blue top 5 speed lsd

 

http://www.zealautowerks.com/bseries.html

Using an LS crank and rods in your block with USDM B16 pistons will put you around 11.5:1 with an 89mm crank. You can make an easy 210whp on that setup with some decent cams and easily be in the mid to high 12s for far cheaper than an H2B setup.

Just another option if you want to stay B series.

 

you can do whatever you want.

H2B would be the better choice with the various gearing available with stock B series trans. but the H Trans works just fine. Just requires a little cutting and drilling to use it. depending on what mount kit you go with. some only require you to cut a section of the original mounting spot off to use the H trans and some you remove the mount entirely and bolt on a plate that the actual motor mount then bolts to.

But i ran 12's with an H22 trans (M2A4) in a 92 civic 4 door back in the mid 90's with just a chipped ecu. no tune. and stock header. Cheaper option with the H22 trans.

 

hey 2lem1 where in the bay are you from? im in the south

 

East Bay

 

an ls crank and rods sounds like im down grading my gsr though

 

lol OP how much do you think this whole rebuild will cost you
a lot of people throw around"budget aint an issue" they realize their pockets are not that deep after all
from your plans I can say expect to put in over 10000 in it to be into 12s unless you search for deals and do everything yourself
im talking about engine assembly clearances measurements etc and use the machine shop only for necessary stuff...

 

GSR crank is 87mm, the LS is 89mm. You will make torque, and in turn horsepower.

 

89mm crank also shifts peak torque lower so you will drop sope torque up top if i remember correctly from reading.

i like 87mm crank tho it seems to pick up rpms quicker (easier i might say)

 

Why all these extravagant setup suggestions to bang off some 12 sec ET's? OP, if money is not a problem then just do a K-swap into your DC2, There really is so much potential with that motor. Now if you want to run 12.70s-12.90s on a stock GSR crank and bottom end, this can be done too. No need to go building a 2.0L B-series thats going to cost you K-series money to run mid high 12s...

My setup was a Stock Usdm Gsr block (150k miles) Untouched.
b16 head with valvetrain, flat face valves, DD-Tech Stage 1 Cams
Tri-y small tube header, 65mm T-Body, ITR Ported intake mani
4.9 Final drive, spec clutch, 22x8x13 in Slicks, in a DC2 Chassis. This setup made 205 whp on a dynojet. When i sold the car to my buddy a few months later he put a 70mm T-body onto a port matched/ported Performer-X intake manifold and retuned, he made 216 Whp on the same dynojet. All this on a Stock Untouched GSR block. If your motor is healthy there is no need to go 2.0L, H-Series Etc.. There is great power to be made on a 1.8L Gsr. This in turn will get you your 12 sec time slip if the car is setup decently. Most ppl dont know/think its possible to get this type of power out of an OEM Honda 1.8L Block, but it definitely is. That being said it will not be "cheap" getting a DC2 into the 12s, because parts add up no matter what setup you go with, but this route will be cheaper than doing an H or K swap, let alone an H2b, and it will be nearly as quick. This setup was definitely fun, and all this while keeping the reliability of an OEM honda block. Not to mention i was tuned on Crome!

 

thanks soloDC ive been rerading your threads and they seem pretty legit.im rebuilding my lsd gsr tranny right now, i cracked the bell housing. next up is pulling the head to build it

 

thread jack just a tiny bit.

are there any full interior NA b series that run 10 seconds and are daily drivers or is that not possible?

 

not possible all motor.

 

he did 12.7 with stock bottom end in full interior

why not possible with a 2 liter block all motor b series
a sleeved 85mm block with gsr or ls crank is not a bad daily driver