Ballistic1350's turbo eg hatch build
So I scooped up a new DD because I couldn't stand my old automatic ford focus... huge piece of junk. Bought it off a friend who drove it up to me from Georgia. I'm still working through its issues.
The paint looked horrible and had the ugliest green wheels, however in its defense had an ls swap... but a bunch of ebay crap for the turbo setup


It ran rough and needed alot of love so I removed the damaged wastegate and put a new one on an elbow, fixed the TPS sensor, put in a 02 sensor since it had none, replaced the fuel filter, replaced my speedo, and a bunch of routine maintenance. Car was tuned on crome pro and made 235whp. REALLY slow in my opinion.
Anyway enough of the back story and on to where I'm at now.
Things for the new setup, all is sitting and waiting:
Block:
B18a RS machine open deck block
84 mm manley pistons
turbo tuff rods
ls crank
ARP mainstuds
ACL bearings
Moroso oil pan
ARP headstuds
ATI damper
Goldeneagle headgasket
Gates timing belt
OEM water pump
OEM oil pump
Head:
Ported GSR Head
Supertech Springs
Ferrara Valves
Bronze guides
Skunk2 Pro 1 cams
AEM cam gears
Skunk2 ultra street intake manifold
Skunk2 74mm throttlebody
Trans:
LS trans for now
Comp stage 4 clutch
Comp flywheel
Stock axles for now
Ignition:
Hondata COP
New distributor
NGK plugs
Turbo:
Ball Bearing STC Reaper from TheShodan with high temp coating on exhaust housing
Go-autoworks Ramorn with high temp coating and downpipe
Tial 44mm wastegate
Full 3" exhaust
DEI titanium wrap and turbo blanket
Fuel:
ID1000 injectors
Walbro in tank pump
Aeromotive FPR
Skunk2 composite rail
Random:
T1 breather setup with 2 ports on front of valve cover
15lb braille to be relocated to bumper
Power steering and AC removed
Koyo rad
13" Spal fan
Will be running hondata s300 with BBG since I have the solenoid and push lock fittings for it all
As soon as I get home I'll upload current pics since I spraybombed the car blue after sanding off most of the surface rust and painted the wheels white. Honestly the car looks like crap but I don't really care since I need to take it to a body shop to remove the rear quarter rust and paint it. That can wait till I get the motor and tune sorted.
The paint looked horrible and had the ugliest green wheels, however in its defense had an ls swap... but a bunch of ebay crap for the turbo setup


It ran rough and needed alot of love so I removed the damaged wastegate and put a new one on an elbow, fixed the TPS sensor, put in a 02 sensor since it had none, replaced the fuel filter, replaced my speedo, and a bunch of routine maintenance. Car was tuned on crome pro and made 235whp. REALLY slow in my opinion.
Anyway enough of the back story and on to where I'm at now.
Things for the new setup, all is sitting and waiting:
Block:
B18a RS machine open deck block
84 mm manley pistons
turbo tuff rods
ls crank
ARP mainstuds
ACL bearings
Moroso oil pan
ARP headstuds
ATI damper
Goldeneagle headgasket
Gates timing belt
OEM water pump
OEM oil pump
Head:
Ported GSR Head
Supertech Springs
Ferrara Valves
Bronze guides
Skunk2 Pro 1 cams
AEM cam gears
Skunk2 ultra street intake manifold
Skunk2 74mm throttlebody
Trans:
LS trans for now
Comp stage 4 clutch
Comp flywheel
Stock axles for now
Ignition:
Hondata COP
New distributor
NGK plugs
Turbo:
Ball Bearing STC Reaper from TheShodan with high temp coating on exhaust housing
Go-autoworks Ramorn with high temp coating and downpipe
Tial 44mm wastegate
Full 3" exhaust
DEI titanium wrap and turbo blanket
Fuel:
ID1000 injectors
Walbro in tank pump
Aeromotive FPR
Skunk2 composite rail
Random:
T1 breather setup with 2 ports on front of valve cover
15lb braille to be relocated to bumper
Power steering and AC removed
Koyo rad
13" Spal fan
Will be running hondata s300 with BBG since I have the solenoid and push lock fittings for it all
As soon as I get home I'll upload current pics since I spraybombed the car blue after sanding off most of the surface rust and painted the wheels white. Honestly the car looks like crap but I don't really care since I need to take it to a body shop to remove the rear quarter rust and paint it. That can wait till I get the motor and tune sorted.
Last edited by ballistic1350; Apr 10, 2014 at 09:20 AM.
Just got done ordering an ATI damper from Titanmotorsports since my used block came without a pulley. great deal and said they'd have it to my door in 3 days!
Yeah I'll agree with you there. The new motor is supposed to take about 2 weeks to be disassembled and checked. I'm also looking into what turbo I want to run, since I got the 5857 prior to the motor... and well things spiraled out of control a bit.
I've been pm'ing the Shodan about a ball bearing Reaper and am leaning towards it. I really want a 500 whp car on 93 pump, however that magic number is not really set in stone.
I've been pm'ing the Shodan about a ball bearing Reaper and am leaning towards it. I really want a 500 whp car on 93 pump, however that magic number is not really set in stone.
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So I ordered a STC reaper turbo and since it needs water lines I decided to upgrade my radiator. So I got a koyo rad, koyo cap, and spal fan. It has provisions for my water lines, Thanks go to The Shodan for the hook up.

Nice piece btw

Nice piece btw
Figured I'd finally take some pics... since everyone wants to see stuff
My intercooler, Tial Q BOV, and go-autoworks ramhorn

ATI damper

Fuel setup: aeromotive filter and fpr, fragola ptfe line -8 and -6, and fittings


And last but not least skunk2 ultra street manifold and 74mm throttle body
My intercooler, Tial Q BOV, and go-autoworks ramhorn

ATI damper

Fuel setup: aeromotive filter and fpr, fragola ptfe line -8 and -6, and fittings


And last but not least skunk2 ultra street manifold and 74mm throttle body
If anyone knows of a good bodywork shop around Philly area that doesn't charge an arm and a leg, it would be appreciated.
Newish to the area/ Honda scene so if anyone wants to wrench/ hangout or needs a hand let me know.
Newish to the area/ Honda scene so if anyone wants to wrench/ hangout or needs a hand let me know.
Ordered some Moog ball joints, upper control arms, and tie rod ends to replace the damaged pieces.
Hopefully i can borrow a pressure washer to thoroughly clean the engine bay
Hopefully i can borrow a pressure washer to thoroughly clean the engine bay
Sorry pic is crappy but here it is

Not sure what I'm going to do with the valve cover... opinions?
On a side note I'm going spend the weekend doing suspension work since I couldn't convince anyone to come help me install the motor

Not sure what I'm going to do with the valve cover... opinions?
On a side note I'm going spend the weekend doing suspension work since I couldn't convince anyone to come help me install the motor
Couple of quick updates
So just so everyone knows you need 9 bolts for aftermarket pressure plates, vice 5 for stock, so I got some arp bolts. I've been waiting on getting someone to help me put the motor back in... wish I could lift it myself.
Got some updated pictures of the STC Reaper I ordered. Both it and my exhaust manifold were sent out to get coated. They look great if I do say so myself!




So just so everyone knows you need 9 bolts for aftermarket pressure plates, vice 5 for stock, so I got some arp bolts. I've been waiting on getting someone to help me put the motor back in... wish I could lift it myself.
Got some updated pictures of the STC Reaper I ordered. Both it and my exhaust manifold were sent out to get coated. They look great if I do say so myself!





And a pic of my new skunk2 fuel rail, which actually fits my ID1000s. Long story short my old inline pro fuel rail was drilled out to 14mm and I din't realize it, so I thought I had the wrong injectors since the ID1000s just slid into the rail and wouldn't have sealed at all.
T1racedevelopment actually helped me figure out my issue, so thanks guys!
T1racedevelopment actually helped me figure out my issue, so thanks guys!
Its really just going to be a street car, may have plans for the strip once we settle down and get a full garage, but till then street monster. I love how it looks like crap and it's gonna be able to walk on 95% of the cars on the road













