Parking lights cluster lights and tail lights stuck on
All of my lights are stuck on and will not turn off, disconnecting the battery is getting old and annoying! The clock is dim usually until the parking lights turn off at random when I reconnect the battery to go home from work







as you can see the wire harness is completely molested from the previous owner its been causing numerous issues over the past year or so. i need to get it all fixed so i can drive it properly
Last edited by Hondadaturbo; Sep 18, 2013 at 07:15 AM. Reason: addiotional post images
Is that your car in the pix Hondadaturbo posted?
If so, check out your local bone yards, [PicknPull] to see if you can find an undamaged dash harness. 94
Last edited by fcm; Sep 19, 2013 at 06:08 AM. Reason: afterthought
Yes I had to make a new profile ...but I did some poking around ...I ended up pulling that ecu fuse under the hood and all of those lights turned off ...so my next question is ..is that wire to the Ecu 12v constant ...and does that wire run under the dash to the fuse box because now I know there the parking lights are shorted to...and I'm assuming the previous owner wired it to something behind the fuse box
Yes the ECU/ECM power lead must run into/under the dash as that is where the ECU/ECM is.
However, the "short" can still be in the engine bay as both that power lead and the park light circuit leads are also in the engine bay, [enter/exit the pass. compartment at the same point].
Also, on most Honda/Acura, the ECU/ECM memory fuse, [constant power fuse] is also memory for the stock radio.
If you have an aftermarket stereo, pull it and check the red/black lead, [illumination, and not used for most aftermarket HUs] and the white/blue, [or white yellow] lead [memory and will/should be connected to the aftermarket HUs yellow constant power lead]. 94
However, the "short" can still be in the engine bay as both that power lead and the park light circuit leads are also in the engine bay, [enter/exit the pass. compartment at the same point].
Also, on most Honda/Acura, the ECU/ECM memory fuse, [constant power fuse] is also memory for the stock radio.
If you have an aftermarket stereo, pull it and check the red/black lead, [illumination, and not used for most aftermarket HUs] and the white/blue, [or white yellow] lead [memory and will/should be connected to the aftermarket HUs yellow constant power lead]. 94
Last edited by fcm; Sep 24, 2013 at 06:15 AM.
Yes the ECU/ECM power lead must run into/under the dash as that is where the ECU/CM is.
However, the "short" an still be in the engine bay as both that power lead and the park light circuit leads are also in the engine bay, [enter/exit the pass. compartment at the same point].
Also, on most Honda/Acura, the ECU/ECM memory fuse, [constant power fuse] is also memory for the stock radio.
If you have an aftermarket stereo, pull it and check the red/black lead, [illumination, and not used for most aftermarket HUs] and the white/blue, [or white yellow] lead [memory and will/should be connected to the aftermarket HUs yellow constant power lead]. 94
However, the "short" an still be in the engine bay as both that power lead and the park light circuit leads are also in the engine bay, [enter/exit the pass. compartment at the same point].
Also, on most Honda/Acura, the ECU/ECM memory fuse, [constant power fuse] is also memory for the stock radio.
If you have an aftermarket stereo, pull it and check the red/black lead, [illumination, and not used for most aftermarket HUs] and the white/blue, [or white yellow] lead [memory and will/should be connected to the aftermarket HUs yellow constant power lead]. 94
Is the red/black lead, [at OEM radio harness] connected to anything?
What is the white/blue OEM lead connected to?
What is the stereos yellow lead connected to?
The red/black is an illumination lead and should not have power on it, yours does because the park/dash lights are staying on. 94
What is the white/blue OEM lead connected to?
What is the stereos yellow lead connected to?
The red/black is an illumination lead and should not have power on it, yours does because the park/dash lights are staying on. 94
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Then you will have to find where in the wiring harness the red/black and white/blue are making contact with each other.
Start where the white/blue runs from the under hood use box into the car.
What is the MM&Y, [and trim level] of the car? 94
Start where the white/blue runs from the under hood use box into the car.
What is the MM&Y, [and trim level] of the car? 94
"Kill switch"?
That 7.5A powers the ECM, TCM, radio, clock and maintenance reminder unit.
The clock will also have a red/black illumination lead, try unplugging the clock. 94
That 7.5A powers the ECM, TCM, radio, clock and maintenance reminder unit.
The clock will also have a red/black illumination lead, try unplugging the clock. 94
Yes kill switch the car has one to where the car won't start unless the parking lights are turned on I can't seem to find it because I know that's where the short is ...I pulled the ecu fuse the 15a under hood fuse and all of the lights turned off but triggered a solid CEL
The park light circuit is not connected to the ECU/ECM in any way, unless the PO did so.
You said, "...I pulled the ecu fuse the 15a under hood fuse", exactly what fuse is that, there are no 15A fuses for the ECU/ECM.
Fuses for ECU/ECM are...
Fuse 18 - 7.5A, [hot when cranking to start only] under dash fuse box, [blue/white]
Fuse 32 - 7.5A, [hot at all times] engine bay fuse box, [white/blue].
Also, looking at the pic you posted of your fuse box, the fuses used and locations are not what Mitchell indicates, wrong size fuses in some spots and fuses in spots there should be no fuse.
Also, what is the white lead "plugged" into what looks like fuse 11, [not used in an RS] or it may be fuse 23 - 30A, [should be a 15A] for stereo/cig. lighter???
Having higher amp. fuse in locations meant for lower amp ones can result in damage to wiring, and is a fire hazard. 94
You said, "...I pulled the ecu fuse the 15a under hood fuse", exactly what fuse is that, there are no 15A fuses for the ECU/ECM.
Fuses for ECU/ECM are...
Fuse 18 - 7.5A, [hot when cranking to start only] under dash fuse box, [blue/white]
Fuse 32 - 7.5A, [hot at all times] engine bay fuse box, [white/blue].
Also, looking at the pic you posted of your fuse box, the fuses used and locations are not what Mitchell indicates, wrong size fuses in some spots and fuses in spots there should be no fuse.
Also, what is the white lead "plugged" into what looks like fuse 11, [not used in an RS] or it may be fuse 23 - 30A, [should be a 15A] for stereo/cig. lighter???
Having higher amp. fuse in locations meant for lower amp ones can result in damage to wiring, and is a fire hazard. 94
Under hood fuse says 15a FI E/M then 7.5A back up (radio) that's from left to right
I pulled the fi e/m fuse and all the lights turned off I haven't touched anything on the fuse box since I got the car since i don't have an accurate enough fuse box diagram
That white lead was a temporary use for a wide band on the dyno
I pulled the fi e/m fuse and all the lights turned off I haven't touched anything on the fuse box since I got the car since i don't have an accurate enough fuse box diagram
That white lead was a temporary use for a wide band on the dyno
The 7.5A, radio back-up, [memory] is also ECU/ECM memory for the ECU/ECM and the clock.
The 15A fuse, [fi e/m] is the main power input to the PGM-FI Main Relay, [fuel injector relay] pulling it will get you a CEL even though it does not directly power the ECU/ECM.
The output of the fuel injector relay not only powers the fuel injectors and some engine solenoid/valves/sensors, it also is IGP1 and IGP2 inputs to the ECU/ECM.
Drop the PGM-FI Main Relay, [just above hood release] and see if any wiring is connected to the harness, the 15A is on the yellow/white lead.
There is no illumination wiring, [red/black] going to the PGM-FI Main Relay.
How about that white lead running to the under dash fuse box, what is it for? 94
The 15A fuse, [fi e/m] is the main power input to the PGM-FI Main Relay, [fuel injector relay] pulling it will get you a CEL even though it does not directly power the ECU/ECM.
The output of the fuel injector relay not only powers the fuel injectors and some engine solenoid/valves/sensors, it also is IGP1 and IGP2 inputs to the ECU/ECM.
Drop the PGM-FI Main Relay, [just above hood release] and see if any wiring is connected to the harness, the 15A is on the yellow/white lead.
There is no illumination wiring, [red/black] going to the PGM-FI Main Relay.
How about that white lead running to the under dash fuse box, what is it for? 94
The 7.5A, radio back-up, [memory] is also ECU/ECM memory for the ECU/ECM and the clock.
The 15A fuse, [fi e/m] is the main power input to the PGM-FI Main Relay, [fuel injector relay] pulling it will get you a CEL even though it does not directly power the ECU/ECM.
The output of the fuel injector relay not only powers the fuel injectors and some engine solenoid/valves/sensors, it also is IGP1 and IGP2 inputs to the ECU/ECM.
Drop the PGM-FI Main Relay, [just above hood release] and see if any wiring is connected to the harness, the 15A is on the yellow/white lead.
There is no illumination wiring, [red/black] going to the PGM-FI Main Relay.
How about that white lead running to the under dash fuse box, what is it for? 94
The 15A fuse, [fi e/m] is the main power input to the PGM-FI Main Relay, [fuel injector relay] pulling it will get you a CEL even though it does not directly power the ECU/ECM.
The output of the fuel injector relay not only powers the fuel injectors and some engine solenoid/valves/sensors, it also is IGP1 and IGP2 inputs to the ECU/ECM.
Drop the PGM-FI Main Relay, [just above hood release] and see if any wiring is connected to the harness, the 15A is on the yellow/white lead.
There is no illumination wiring, [red/black] going to the PGM-FI Main Relay.
How about that white lead running to the under dash fuse box, what is it for? 94
I'm not saying that there's a wire that feeds to it ...I'm saying that the previous owner wired it up like that
When the killswitch worked you would turn the key to on ...
The fuel pump does not prime ..it's just a solid check engine light
Until you turn the parking lights on then the check engine light turns off and the fuel pump turns on then you can start it...
If the car is running and u turn the parking lights off the car dies
But it doesn't work anymore
For temp. or extra powers you can use the free pins, marked red/white and orange on the first pix I posted.
So what it sound like is happening is the "cut" was installed on the 12V constant for the
PG-FI Main Relay, you need to drop the PGM-FI Main Relay. 94
So what it sound like is happening is the "cut" was installed on the 12V constant for the
PG-FI Main Relay, you need to drop the PGM-FI Main Relay. 94






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