1996 Accord lx stalls and sputters when coming to a stop?
Hey guys My 1996 honda Accord started acting up. Ok first off i just had the motor,clutch kit and flywheel replaced with a lightened one, it has a new coil,dizzy,wires,ngk plugs, iacv,cleaned the fitv, and a new battery, i pretty much rebiult the top half of the old motor before it was replaced and had all the parts switched to the new motor. it ran fine for like a month then this.its wierd because its summer outside right now and every time i start the car it idles high like its warming up. the initial warmup will be about 2 mins then drops to norm. But every time after that it will do the same thing but only it takes less time for the idle to drop to norm. Plus... after it warms up and im driving, it drives great no hesitation, sputtering, or misfiring at all. but when i let off the gas like im coming to a stop the car drops below normal idle shakes and dies. i can kick start it while its rolling and it will start up fine. it will start up sitting still just fine too but if i let it idle for a long time itll idle low and sometimes die but not all the time sometimes itll just idles too low and just sit there and shake and rattle my exhaust.
Heres a couple things i thought it could be.
1.IACV- but i just replaced it not to long ago
2. idle could be set to low?
3.Vacuum leak somewhere?
Keep in mind i can drive it for days on the highway no problem, only when its ran for a while either sitting still or coming to a stop sign or light itll do this.
HHHMMM.....i really appriciate any thoughts,advice or imput on this. i have an overall idea where to start but just seeing if i can narrow that point down a bit or maybe same things happened to someone else before.
THANKS
Heres a couple things i thought it could be.
1.IACV- but i just replaced it not to long ago
2. idle could be set to low?
3.Vacuum leak somewhere?
Keep in mind i can drive it for days on the highway no problem, only when its ran for a while either sitting still or coming to a stop sign or light itll do this.
HHHMMM.....i really appriciate any thoughts,advice or imput on this. i have an overall idea where to start but just seeing if i can narrow that point down a bit or maybe same things happened to someone else before.
THANKS
air, fuel, and spark...if it is driving fine during regular driving, all sounds good to me..im sure you have consistent air, you would know otherwise..if you cut the car on and hear the fuel pump, im sure its fine too..im thinking its ignition but you replaced the coil, so thats taken care of. related, air idle control valve could be to blame, so you are on point with where to start. if the idle was set to low, it wouldnt idle at all, it would bog and die, but you could try and adjust the idle control screw, to be sure. also with the vacuum leak, it could be somewhere, but i would think it would run like hell during regular driving. check the aicv, the idle screw, and the throttle position sensor, those things have to be spot on or idle can be sporadic.
If your car still has the original oxygen sensor my best guess is that it's at the end of its useful life. When coming to a stop the oxygen sensor is at its most stressed position.
It might be wise to check for an exhaust leak using seafoam before you replace it though. Atleast I would if it were me.
A quick test you can do that will isolate it to the oxygen sensor but even if it doesn't show itself with this test doesn't rule it out as being the issue is to find an open road and in second gear accelerate as fast as you can at wide open throttle for 5 seconds then immediately slow to a stop and see if the check engine light comes on. Just remember to be safe here.
Also, the fitv is designed to force the car to idle higher when started cold to warm the car up faster. As the car gets up to temperature the forced idle goes away.
It might be wise to check for an exhaust leak using seafoam before you replace it though. Atleast I would if it were me.
A quick test you can do that will isolate it to the oxygen sensor but even if it doesn't show itself with this test doesn't rule it out as being the issue is to find an open road and in second gear accelerate as fast as you can at wide open throttle for 5 seconds then immediately slow to a stop and see if the check engine light comes on. Just remember to be safe here.
Also, the fitv is designed to force the car to idle higher when started cold to warm the car up faster. As the car gets up to temperature the forced idle goes away.
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