Lowering a 97 accord help
also to be serious, i have accord lowered 2.25 in front, 2 in rear, just get it aligned, camber kits are for people who like wasting money, well accord peeps. I have just never seen them necessary for our car/that drop amount. a good way to tell, drop it, cause you are going to any way, get it aligned, then go from there.
also to be serious, i have accord lowered 2.25 in front, 2 in rear, just get it aligned, camber kits are for people who like wasting money, well accord peeps. I have just never seen them necessary for our car/that drop amount. a good way to tell, drop it, cause you are going to any way, get it aligned, then go from there.
The OP I'm sure left out the word 'kit' since you're going to have camber anyway you look at it.
2.5" is absolutely going to throw your camber out of spec which may or may not be desired. With factory wheels it's going to be ridiculously sunken in and just not look good. Decreasing the camber is going to improve the look for sure.
As pointed out by chrisnick though, toe is the setting you should be most concerned with respect to tire wear. You can drive with -5° of camber all day but if your toe is wonky you'll tear up your tires. Your goal when lowering should be as close to factory recommendations as possible - including camber.
You can get away with doing the washer trick in the rear which is what I did and corrected ~1.5-2° of camber or so.
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I have tried three different camber adjusters on my 94 EX. The main problem is that the upper A-arm on a lowered car rises up into the inner fender well. If the A-arm is moved outward to reduce the camber, the ball-joint end of the A-arm will hit the outer lip of the inner fender well. So I was only able to move it out something less than and inch. This took care of most of the negative camber, but did leave some. If there was some way to adjust the lower arm it would be better, but I don't think there is.
I have tried three different camber adjusters on my 94 EX. The main problem is that the upper A-arm on a lowered car rises up into the inner fender well. If the A-arm is moved outward to reduce the camber, the ball-joint end of the A-arm will hit the outer lip of the inner fender well. So I was only able to move it out something less than and inch. This took care of most of the negative camber, but did leave some. If there was some way to adjust the lower arm it would be better, but I don't think there is.
The EF-Civic ones from Skunk2 work as well and are shorter.
I had one of the adjustable ball joint kits. It took out all the camber, but the adjusting nut and threaded bolt on top hit the top of the inner fender on a hard bump. I thought about just making a little more room there, but it hit right where there were some spot welds and I didn't want to mess with the structural integrity of the front end. So I ended up with some offset mounts with poly bushings. They work well. It's just that I run 215/45/17 tires and they don't give very much, so I am riding on the inside of the tire more than I would like. But I can live with that.
I will have to look into those.
The EF-Civic ones from Skunk2 work as well and are shorter.
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