jumper harnesses are for the birds
So I just decided to say screw a jumper harness and convert my obd0 dpfi ecu plugs to obd1. It took a few hours to rewire everything but it turned out pretty good. This should solve all the connection issues I was having with the "no named" jumper harness I had installed.
You could have easily solved the no name jumper harness issue by tracing all the wires. Its pretty much what you did but less of a hassle since you don't have to cut, solder or re-pin every wire. FYI-twist tie and electrical tape doesn't work for the long haul.
Nice hopefully everything works out good for you..also why did u make a jumper for ur dizzy u should of just depin them and repined straight to the obd1 connector...thats what did i also replaced all the nasty yellow looking connectors to the grey obd1s on my engine harness its really easy
swordofdoom the harness was a piece, I did trace the wires and it wasnt making a connection to the ecu, trust me I've tried to fix this problem withought having to do what I did but im glad i did it now so I dont have to worry about It later. haha good point jdmjunkie I didnt even think about doing that lol. Thats how the jumper was before just longer so I made it short but didnt think to repin it lol
Good job. I was going to do the same thing but went with a jumper instead. Nothing wrong with quality electrical tape assuming you soldered connections.
It's much better, and MUCH less messy later, If you use the proper covering. Its called "Convoluted tubing". You can get it at most auto parts stores in 3 sizes for like $5 for 10 feet. It will give you a much cleaner, OEM look. And it will make it easier to go back and work on it later.
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I'll have to go get some. I really hate the electrical tape to wrap everything up its just all I had at the time. I've always wondered where to get that tubing at.. now i know! thnks! and I didnt not use ANY butt connectors EVER! lol
lol. I hope you dont ever fly on an airplane... There is not a single soldered connection. They are all butt connectors. Also, race car wire harnesses are built the same way.
Here, educate yourself.
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html
"Wire to Wire Splices
Wire to wire spilces an be accomplished with Tyco Raychem D-406, or Sumitube W79 adhesive lined shrink tube. Do not solder the wires together. Proper crimping is the preferred method. Alternatively, unshielded butt connectors can be used and sealed with adhesive-lined heat shrink. Often wires will branch i.e. 1-2, 1-3 etc. and splices are necessary.
Raychem part # D-406-0001, Red in color, marked "Duraseal 18-22" is the one we use for our "Spec 55" wiring.
We stagger our splices in each harness. Here we have staggered the splice joints for a Pectel SQ6M ECU. This avoids overlapping the splice points, which are sealed in adhesive shrink tubing."
Here, educate yourself.
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html
"Wire to Wire Splices
Wire to wire spilces an be accomplished with Tyco Raychem D-406, or Sumitube W79 adhesive lined shrink tube. Do not solder the wires together. Proper crimping is the preferred method. Alternatively, unshielded butt connectors can be used and sealed with adhesive-lined heat shrink. Often wires will branch i.e. 1-2, 1-3 etc. and splices are necessary.
Raychem part # D-406-0001, Red in color, marked "Duraseal 18-22" is the one we use for our "Spec 55" wiring.
We stagger our splices in each harness. Here we have staggered the splice joints for a Pectel SQ6M ECU. This avoids overlapping the splice points, which are sealed in adhesive shrink tubing."
I have and in the past had butt connectors come loose due to vibrations especially the ones that you have to crimp yourself. When you have a whole engine harness but crimped together its a mess and a nightmare especially when your on the road and it fails on you.
Screw butt connectors. If your doing it right you wont need them. I build my harnesses with brand new wires 0 but connectors all brand new oe pins
But it's all opinions and preferences. Don't take anything anyone says, more so on the internet, as a definitive rule.
I do like that you made your own harness though. Sticking it to the off-brand-man. But that wrapping can be purchased at Walmart in the electrical/automotive area too. For about half the price of autozone or a similar place.
Anyways, congrats. I like that you shared something you did at home on your own. It was a good, "Look, it can be done" thread.
So I just decided to say screw a jumper harness and convert my obd0 dpfi ecu plugs to obd1. It took a few hours to rewire everything but it turned out pretty good. This should solve all the connection issues I was having with the "no named" jumper harness I had installed.
I've done this to other customers oem harnesses. But I've taken it a step further. I converted the shock tower plugs to plug into a factory eg/dc engine harness.
Op did you do that? That would complete you full obd1 conversion?
Electrically, crimps are better than solder. There is a NASA study for this (no joke).
I'll still solder and shrink tube an automotive wire over a crimp any day. The crimps from auto part stores are junk and the proper weather seal crimps are too much $.
I'll still solder and shrink tube an automotive wire over a crimp any day. The crimps from auto part stores are junk and the proper weather seal crimps are too much $.
thanks guys! Ya I haven't done the shock tower plugs, that will be next on the list though! I personally wouldn't want to use butt connectors over solder and heat shrink. But that's just my opinion to each his own!
This is obviously the best way. But when you need to splice 2 (or more) wires together, it is impossible. This is where a (proper) butt connector becomes necessary. Also, there is nothing wrong with auto part store butt connectors. If the wires pull out, YOU didnt do it right.
I've had good luck with eBay jumper harnesses (Zerg industries specifically, mine has lasted quite a long time now)
@F22Master... so you're saying I should cut all my soldered connections and use butt connectors, because they're better? That sounds just idiotic. There's a reason we solder wires, the same reason why we weld metal together instead of using machine screws. Don't spread misinformation. When splicing, butt connectors might be preferred because it is easy to de-splice the wire. That's about it. There is no way that a flimsy piece of metal, that can let the wire slip out of the terminal, is better than melting solder into a twisted wire braid.
@F22Master... so you're saying I should cut all my soldered connections and use butt connectors, because they're better? That sounds just idiotic. There's a reason we solder wires, the same reason why we weld metal together instead of using machine screws. Don't spread misinformation. When splicing, butt connectors might be preferred because it is easy to de-splice the wire. That's about it. There is no way that a flimsy piece of metal, that can let the wire slip out of the terminal, is better than melting solder into a twisted wire braid.
Do it. It will make it fully obd1. I have pics of the way I did if you need them in my fb link below


