So I currently have a 1998 Civic LX 4 Door (I think all LX's are 4 doors) that has 261,XXX miles on it. I bought it a couple years ago for pretty cheap with around 210,XXX miles. When I bought it it already had Tein basic's, cloth GSR seats, some kind of front speakers, a crap JVC head unit, a Viper alarm/remote start, and some other small things. The worst mod was some kind of 6 puck unsprung clutch that was in it when he put a "new" D16Y7 in it. I guess he got it for free, but I would have bought a clutch if I was him.

Anyway, I ended up redoing the entire braking system within the year. New e-brake cables, new drums, new wheel cylinders, new shoes, new hardware, new calipers, new rotors, new master cylinder, and new lines from the master all the way through to each wheel. It was a mess where I would fix it all one at a time and just push the problem around. Many of the parts had to be replaced more than once because I had though they were bad, or they went bad for some reason. Ever since though, the brakes have been wonderful!

Next up came the fuel/ignition systems. I had done a full tune up early on, but suddenly the car ran like crap. I had thought it was ignition at first, so I started with plugs and wires. Then I did cap and rotor, then replaced the distributor. Then I got it to run, but not very well, so I moved onto fuel. I replaced the filter even though I had done it previously, and then I changed the pump and that fixed that problem.

So as you can gather, I don't mess around when it comes to working on the car. If I am going to be doing anything, I tend to just do everything in the area at the same time. Another smaller example was the exhaust was rusted, so I did a header back system in all stainless with a vibrant muffler. I got the cheap ebay system, but ended up reworking most of it, and obviously changed the muffler.

Now we are up to speed on the cars current list of mods, and maintenance history we can move on. The motor that the previous owner installed had over 100k on it when he swapped it, and probably another 50k since then. It leaks and burns oil at a pretty decent rate. He didn't bother with a timing belt or water pump at the time. The heater core has been leaking since I got the car, same goes for the power steering rack. The one wheel was missing a rather large chunk since I bought the car, and all 4 tires have pretty good sized knots in the sidewalls from the great roads I get to drive (Chicago). I have pretty much just abused the car for the last couple years other than the above mentioned things, and have let the problems sort of build up. Now that the water pump is screaming, and the power steering and oil are disappearing at an alarming rate it is time to dive in. I am going to be doing the following this upcoming weekend, and probably the following as well.

D16ZC (SOHC Non-VTEC)
Accompanying transmission
Exedy OEM replacement clutch
Energy suspension shifter bushings
B&M dual bend shifter
Energy suspension motor mount inserts (both sets)
Honda timing belt
Honda water pump
Honda tensioner
Honda thermostat
Honda radiator cap
Reman power steering rack
Energy suspension steering rack bushings
driver side outer tie rod
passenger side outer tie rod
Power steering pressure hose
power steering return hose
Alternator belt
Power steering belt
Air conditioning belt
Heater core
upper radiator hose
lower radiator hose
all the various heater hoses for the whole system
NGK plug wires
NGK plugs
Ebay cold air intake
K&N cone filter for intake
Magnaflow mid muffler
Honda 15" Steelies
205/50-R15 Falken Ziex ZE-912 tires
Ceramic front pads

And of course Honda power steering fluid, Honda manual trans fluid, new drain plugs, new gaskets, new exhaust manifold gasket, and so on. Once I get into it I will also replace anything else that looks suspect, like axles, sensors and the like. The radiator was replaced shortly before I got the car otherwise it would be on the list.

I will be doing my best to document the process of doing all of this work, and will be adding pics to this thread as I go. Pretty much all of the parts are already here, just waiting on some stuff I ordered late (exhaust parts). I do have a couple questions though.

1. I would like to just replace all of the various vacuum lines, which is not much work, but what sizes do I need to order? From what I can see it looks like there are 2 main sizes, and one larger one that feeds the booster.

2. I am obviously going to change all of the clamps on all of the hoses. Does anyone know what sizes, and how many of each I should order? Unless anyone can tell me a good reason why not, I am going to just get stainless worm gear clamps. I plan on using them on all of the heater hoses, and the power steering return. For all of the vacuum lines I am at a loss though.


Whew, that was long winded! Thanks in advance for the help guys.



Sean

 

I figured I could throw in a pic or two of the car. Here it is before I installed the OEM front lip, you can see the damaged rear wheel in this pic.



Nothing new here other than the lip is installed



Here is the new motor on the pallet



I also forgot that I got an OBD2A to OBD1 conversion harness on the way, and an OBD1 ECU (I have a few to choose from). I am pretty sure there isnt much to gain, but something is better than nothing.


Sean

 

This looks like a cool build. Body is in good shape as-well.

 

Thanks! So I just discovered that I cant use the intake manifold that came on the motor until I do the OBD1 swap. That adds to the question list now

What IAC valve do I need to buy? What changes to the wiring do I need to do for the two wire on OBD1?


Thanks,
Sean

 

Lots of views, but no help on my questions!


Sean

 

No one's trying to read that novel you wrote.

Cliffs? Summary in 2 sentences please?

 

Whew, what a novel that was! That is like one whole sentence, and then some questions! I am glad we all made it through that together.

Sean

 

I dont have the time to read all that..

Cliffs are needed.

 

I read it, it was much better than half the crap posted on this site with misspelling and poor grammar. You guys should really not bitch about the length, it took all of 2 minutes to read. Don't like go into some horrible thread posted from a phone by a half illiterate.

OP, I do not know the answer to your questions, sorry. Ignore those guys for being dicks, they claim not to have time yet are on here all day.

 

Cliffs:

Read the OP
Cannot help at all
Calls everyone out for not reading

 

Yes, I lack the technical experience to provide OP with an answer. I read his post, it was well written and not gibberish like most of the other posts we all bitch about.

OP provides all information in a legible manner(something that knowledgeable posters are always asking for), knowledgeable posters refuse to answer because OP provided pertinent information in a well written post.

 

OK, I skimmed thru it..


The vac lines can be found at your local parts store.

Just bring in the old ones to compare OR you can go on Hondapartsnow.com and lookup the skematics and maybe they will have the size listed.

Worm clamps will be fine for what your doing. If you have a mom and pop auto parts store to get the clamps, do it there.

Clamps are now being sold in packaging and for 3.00 for a pair of clamps. These used to be about .79ea and now everyone is paying for packaging. these used to be sitting on a long spike and you just grabbed what you needed.

 

The vac lines and clamps are pretty much sorted already. I am not sure if I need to clamp the vac lines, or not though. I am thinking I will run silicone tubing and zip tie the ends, should be fine.

I am still more interested in the IAC deal though. I am being told that I need a "2 wire IAC" but what is that off of so I can order one? Also, what wires are used from my existing plug which I assume is 3 or 4 wires? What else do I need to be on the lookout for with this ZC motor? I can see the distributor is different, but I am going to swap mine over since it is only a couple months old anyway.

All of my previous Honda's were B series swapped EF's, so this ZC motor and the OBD2 to OBD1 conversion are both new to me.


Thanks,
Sean

 

I have been around forums for quite a while, these guys don't bother me I can answer pretty much all of my questions on my own (things like hose sizes and such) but I was trying to get a jump on it instead of waiting till I had parts in hand. So far HT has not been able to help in time (or at all), but I haven't given up hope yet!

Sean

P.S. I am not talking specifically about this thread, just in general

 

the motor on the pallet is a standard so it should have a 2 wire iacv already the auto y8 and all y7's used a 3 wire on the throttle body

 

I will take a pic, but there is no IAC, and no provision for one. It's just solid cast aluminum back there.

Sean

 

Here is a shot of the back of the intake




Sean

 

A lot of useless and irrelevant info provided that clouded and buried the exact issue. No one stated they had no time but if you want help for a technical issue then please list what the issue is. According to what I briefly researched his engine has no IACV.

 

Scratch that. It supposed to be on the IM so I have to ask exactly what IM is that?

 

That's the intake manifold that came on it. Is there any way to identify it? At this point, what are my options though? Can the IACV be bypassed in some way, then tuned out of the ECU? Should I start hunting for a different intake manifold, and if so which one? Should I just use my current intake manifold, which means I have some useless parts now (CAI)?

Help!
Sean

 

looks similar to my auto y8 manifold and his iacv is the white connector on the bottom of the throttle body just below the broken tps sensor. so the question is what ecu are you going to use ?? it's none vtec so your original y7 ecu will work just fine and then the iacv on there is the correct one (y7 all use a 3 wire) you will have to do the cfks sensor fix though as jdm motor's don't use it.

 

the single wire o2 makes me wonder if the motor is obd1

 

Isnt the white connector the high speed idle deal? I have a new TPS sensor already as well.

I have the stock Y7 ECU in there now, but am planning on changing to a OBD1 ECU shortly. I don't think the conversion harness will be here in time to do it right away though.

What is the CFKS fix?


Thank you,
Sean

 

Bumping for the day. I am going to be installing the motor this weekend, so I would like to get this figured out before then. Again I am going to be using the stock OBD2 computer for right now, so we need to keep that in mind. This is a daily driver, so it needs to run decent , but I don't really care about a check engine light being on for a while.

If the motor is OBD1 like canadaek thinks, what does that really mean for me? How many sensors are or aren't there? How many in different locations that need wiring changes? How many have different connectors? I already know the plug on the distributor is strange, but as I said I am just going to change it out with my current one.


Thanks for the help guys,
Sean

 

That's an AUTO y8 manifold. The iacv you have is 3 wire. Can see in picture on throttle body. You need to find a 2 wire iacv and drill/tap the manifold for it OR swap it for a manual manifold and sell that one to someone with a y7 that want to convert the gay y7 manifold on their dx,lx.