can a tooth off on the timing cause it to throw the cyp code?

 

If there is no crank sensor on the actual crank, then no.
The dist just goes off of where the cam is and it assumes your timing is correct and based off where the cam is, it knows where the cyp is.

 

dang.. ive checked wiring, been through dizzy after dizzy, checked on a good known ecu and it still throws the code!! I cant figure out whats wrong!! its really irritating

 

Cant remember if you posted this in your last thread. Buttt
Your mechanical timing and ign timing is corrct?
And did you check continuity between the ecu wires and the dist connection wires.

 

the mechanical is i believe spot on and i havent got to get a timing light yet to set the ign timing, so i set/drove/set/drove it untill it ran at its optimum. With that being said yes i have checked continuity between the ecu and dizzy connector wires.. this is why i cant understand whats going on because everything checks out ok! Unless the right ups i've read and pics ive seen of people's wiring diagrams are wrong and im checking the wrong wires..

 

Which ECU and which distributor are you using?

 

p28 ecu, and a b16 obd1 dizzy

 

Since you are convinced that the wiring is good, then you will need to check with a known working distributor. But it seems like you have done a few distributors - not sure if you know if they are for certain not throwing the code 9 on different cars?!?!

Try an ohm-meter on the cyp wires at the distributor. I believe the CYP should read 350~700ohms.
Do the same test at the ECU - disconnect the ECU and test the CYP wires. Should have the same reading as at the distributor.

 

i have a p-28 ecu had code 9 before i had to get another p-28 ecu because i fryed it(turned off my kill switch to fast vehicle still with lights and on) one wire is wrong on jumper harness i bought one at pann-auto looked at my old harness saw a difrence with new one... also use del-sol b-16 si diagram wireing harness

 

u need to move a pin there are two wires... not giving enough continuity...

 

What wires????

 

ya what wires?? 4drEF im not convinced its not a wiring issue i just want this stupid little problem fixed, im just saying that i've checked several times but i will indeed check it again! I just need to know FOR SURE exactly what to check... i know i followed the testing procedures to check for continuity at the dizzy and when i got to the ecu didnt know if i was supposed to leave the plugs plugged in the the ecu or unplug them.. If someone could give me a RELIABLE step-by-step procedure of checking the wiring from the dizzy to the ecu that would help me out alot!! PLEASE!!! Im getting closer to the day i get it tuned and i need this fixed before hand!

 

The CYP wires are found on Connector B to your ECU.
You need to unplug it so you don't read any resistance from the ECU.
Pins 11 and 12 - an orange and a white wire assuming your conversion harness is color coded to OBD1 spec.
http://technet.ff-squad.com/wiring.obd1.htm
Stock OBD0 wires are at C1 and C2 - blue/green and blue/yellow (pic in link is for Si, but these 2 wires are the same on DPFI harnesses)
http://civic.gotskillslounge.com/civ...U%20Pinout.png
You should read 350~700 ohms.

The test checks to make sure you have good connection from the ECU to the distributor. Many issues are found in a loose connector, broken wire, miswire, etc.

 

Correct me if i am wrong but isnt it..
Obd1-obd0
B11-B10
B12-b12

 

so put a probe on the ecu plug and one at the dizzy plug (harness side) and make sure there is continuity correct? repeat with the second wire?

 

Not continuity - you need to read the resistance.
Leave the distributor connected.

The system as a whole is using the engine harness to extend the wires from the distributor all the way to the ECU.
You should get nearly the same reading at the distributor as you do through the engine harness.
The reason to do this test is because the firewall connector, the distributor connector, and all the wire in between are all places where there could be electrical failures.

 

OBD0 b10-b12 is the crank angle sensor and throws a troublecode 4.

 

went through 3 conversion pinouts i found online and all 3 have same pinouts for cyp
Obd1-obd0
B11-B10
B12-b12

 

ooook the test results are in and here's what i have come up with...

With the dizzy UNPLUGGED, a probe at the orange connection to the dizzy (engine harness side) and a probe at the ecu plug b11 (ecu is unplugged) it reads 7.2 ohms...
Same thing with the probes on the white wire is also 7.2 ohms...

Ok now with the dizzy PLUGGED IN when i put a probe on the white wire, and a probe on the white wire at the ecu it reads 7.48 and i can also leave the wire on the white wire at the dizzy and change spots at the ecu to the orange wire and it still readys 7.62 ohms.. and with a probe on the orange wire at the dizzy and white wire at ecu it reads 7.76 and on the orange at the ecu is 7.53...

basically when i have the dizzy plugged into the harness both the orange and white wires ohm out to eachother, ARE THEY SUPPOSED TO DO THAT??? If not then that's my problem i'd imagine. If they are then i have NO CLUE what the prob is..

 

anything???

 

take it to a professional...do u know how to use a meter correctly???are any of the 2 cyp wires shorted to ground???

 

i know what im doin man been doin this for a while but that doesnt mean i dont need help every so often. when the harness is plugged into the ecu both wires show ohms to body ground. when it is unplugged they do not

 

You were test white to white and then orange to orange.
Basically just a continuity test.

You should be testing the pin on the white wire to the pin on the orange wire. This tests the resistance of the sensor.

 

I am having a similar issue with a CEL Code 9 CYP however i have 437 ohms from B11 on the ECU adapter plug through the CYP in the 1994 OBD1 dizzy back to B12 on the ECU plug like the Honda manual states. I have put in another OBD1 dizzy with the same results; car starts and runs ruff for about 5 secs then it throws the CEL Code 9 and smooths out. I haven't tried another good known ECU as i dont have one.
This is an 88 CRX (d15b sohc vtec jdm) with the OBD0 to OBD1 conversion. I purchased the OBD0 to OBD1 ECU, dizzy and the fuel injector adapters.
According to all the test it should be running fine... Any suggestions? I have even tried to adjust the CYP in the dizzy to increase and decrease the distance between the CYP sensor and the CYP rotor.
BTW... It did this with the OBD0 ECU as well when i only did the OBD0 to OBD1 dizzy conversion.
I have checked the dizzy adapter and it is assembled correctly... I think...LOL..

 

mrblue, what distributor are you using?
You wrote "OBD1", but is it a vtec distributor or a non-vtec one?