Hey, In june this has recently started to my H22A LST transmission 95,000km from japan would not start right after turning off. This car use to be auto. 1998 Accord EX

I would have to drive then it was all chance, sometimes once i turned my car off the check engine light would pop up and id have to wait anywhere from 1-15min. But sometimes it didnt come on it was how the car was?

But at the end of july its been turning off on me while going 130 on the highway switching gears, just stalls and shutts off then i Had to wait.

Then it happened to it didnt want to turn on and I had to wait a couple of days.

I brought it to my mechaninc and its been there since, broken no one knows whats wrong.

They switched out all the wires thinking it was a wiring problem, switched the distributor, and nothing...

They try to read it but they cannont as the ECU will not give out codes(Gives out saying theres an error).

No where for me to do the paper clip method, Nothing on the passengers side kick panel, Guess the people who did the swap werent thinking?

They say its something to do with the ECU or security system on the car( Special way to turn it on so no one can just go in your car and steal it)

BUT... They say its an "After market ECU"... Ive never heard of an aftermarket performance ECU that they are saying i need to get???

The Check engine light stays on most of the time but the time it doesent the car will turn on but die after a while. They think its the whole ECU because supposedly the injectors dont wanna keep a spark or something. But I think it could be a relay as I do not hear the fuel pump go once I turn the key.

 

What ecu are you using ? What's the exact part number ? How many miles on the chassis ? Have you replaced the main relay and/or ignition switch and/or ignition control module ? These are the three main causes for cars to turn off.

 

its a P06 that is more likely chipped(Previous owner swapped the engine). around 220 000km, I believe its an after market main relay in the car as I "Google" The honda one and they are all short, and wide. This one is more long,

 

normally an obd1 ecu will not allow a scanner to read the codes you have to pull it the old way but you have an obd2 chassis...be that as it may you can always use the paperclip method to pull codes


yours is on the driver side