Hello,

I am new to owning an engine, that has what i call moderate or maybe idk extensive modifications done to it, it needs to have the ECU tuned, another subject i basically know nothing about.

Here is my set-up.
90 Integra LS chassis
OBD1 PR4 - with VTEC chip added. Or its a P28, I'm guessing it is one of those from the 3 digit number on the MCU. not exactly sure (no labels) (don't know if its legal or what ever to own or run a no label ECU)

B17A1
-Short-ram air intake
-ITR TB
-Aftermarket (not sure on brand) Performance Intake Manifold.
-Aftermarket 4-2-1 header (again not sure on brand)
-Head - stock
-Block has SRP forged pistons 12.7:1 CR, Micro-polished and balanced crank, ACL race series bearings, CP piston rings.
-At moment stock B17A1 fuel rail (bought an AEM black fuel rail)
stock injectors and FPR
-i also have an AEM adjustable FPR, but its for a 94-01 B18B or C, not a 90-93 Integra

Here's the question

Do I NEED to upgrade the Injectors to 310-440cc's , install an Adjustable FPR, and upgrade the fuel pump to a Walboro 255?

Please any insight, experience, advise is welcome.

thanks in advance

 

you may or may not need to get larger than stock injectors, that really depends on how cold of weather you plan to drive the car in. colder needs more fuel, so the stock injectors may not be enough in northern winter temps, depending what you have for cams because I don't see that listed. if you have stock cams, you're fine.

you definitely do not need an adjustable fpr or walbro 255 though, not even close. the stock fpr is way better than most people think, and as long as the stock pump is in good condition it will more than suffice, even if you go to bigger injectors.

the only way to know if you need larger injectors is to just go get a tune, start with a dyno tune for full throttle, and have the tuner examine duty cycles. if they reach anything over 70% on a warm day, you'll know that means they'll hit 80% or higher on a colder day. and though its easily possible (I do it in my car), it's never recommended to go higher than 80% duty cycle.

IF you end up getting larger injectors, I'd recommend blacktop dsm injectors. they are 450cc with a dual spray pattern. second to that would be the dsm bluetops which are the same but a single spray pattern, and is what I use in my boosted lude cuz I got em cheap

 

Yes i have stock cams.

I was planning on daily driving this engine.

Thanks, for explaining all that.

Ok on the tuning thing.

What does the tuner need to know, how does the tuning process work? what should i expect to go on, upon arriving at the shop the day i get the ecu tuned?

also, i was told to either tune for E85 fuel, or run a mixture consisting of 3 gallons of 110 octane then fill the rest of the tank with 92 octane premium pump gas to get a decent octane rating.

besides obvious reasons ie cost of 110 fuel/gallon, the planning that would be needed to fill up the tank, and the fact of basically keeping 2-3 gallons of 110 at home, or in the car, for when i fill up. closest 110 station is like 15 miles away. E85 is more readily available. Is there pros and cons to the 110/92 mixture vs E85? Anything different in engine setup or its components?

sorry for the late reply, i can't reply while at work.

 

If your planning to run E85 then you should get new injectors and tune from there..

If your staying on pump gas, then stock injectors are fine for all NA builds.
OEM injectors have even been used for low boost setups.

 

what he said^

e85 requires more fuel to get the correct af ratio, and the stock injectors may not supply enough to meet that requirement.

110/92 mix:
pro: stock injectors, smells awesome.
con: you need to make sure the mixture is exactly the same ratio of each at all times as to what it was when it got tuned. otherwise if the overall octane rating gets too far below what it was when tuned you can blow the motor

e85:
pro: very consistent, works well with high compression
con: availability

 

I could answer that question many different ways. but to be totally honest, the best reply I can give is: contact the tuner in advance, ask him any and all tuning-related questions, as he will be the one tuning, and can tell you what you'll need, what he'll need, and what to expect, and the process that he'll be going through. and of course you're welcome to post on the site here what the tuner tells you so other tuners here can review and comment

 

thanks everyone.

ok, maybe dumb question, but do i have to get E85 compatible injectors or would those DSM blacktops work?

the fuel mixture answer was very helpful, i didn't know about the 110/92 mix consistency downfall. i have googled E85 stations in my area and there are some close to my address, closer than the 110 station, plus the 110 station is not open 24 hours a day. i may just upgrade the injectors for E85 and go with that. instead of risking the possibility of not getting the 110/92 mixture just right. that would be a horrible way to end the life of a fairly full rebuilt b17.

thanks for the tuning advice.

 

the dsm blacktop injectors will work fine with e85. there really are no injectors that are not compatible with e85.
and it's not a dumb question lol. hell, a lot of people don't even know what e85 is, especially here in the northeast where nearly no one has it. I don't think anyone has it at all in my entire state.

 

Thanks, for the reply. Ill definitely check out that DSM in the yard and get those injectors if still there, im fairly certain they will be as its a hidden jem of a yard that most people don't know of.

i googled E85 fuel stations with my zip code and like at least 5 popped up, within 5 or so miles. its a cheaper than 8.30/gallon of 110 fuel.

is it true that E85 has an overall high octane rating i heard it was essentially rated around 100?

anything else.

Also um kind of an ethics question. I bought an ECU chipped with an S200 already installed on it.
I am kinda new to this and didn't realize what i purchased. The ECU MCU has a 3 digit number being 301. From a lot of researching of the board the 3 digit MCU # and such.

i believe it to be a P06-A02. with a vtec chip added.
Yes i bought an ecu without a sticker. please don't flame. fortunately i do not live in california or any other smog **** state.

Will a tuning shop tune an ecu w/o a label?? Is this on a shop by shop basis?

im kinda certain its a P06-A02 is because there was a piece of the sticker still remaining on the ecu and i could make out the bottom parts of the last 3 digits of the ECU and it was the bottom of an A then what has to be a "0" and then i could see the upward curve of the bottom of the "2". Through searching part#'s and possible combinations of part numbers for every ECU honda produced, only a couple had the last 3 digit combination of A02.
One was an ECU that wasn't a possible candidate, the other was the P06-A02, checked the board and chipsets and placements and it all relates back to the hierarchy and or layout of a P06-A02 ecu.
i unfortunately do not have a PC based laptop or windows compatible laptop to inspect or whatever the Hondata s200 unit nor, did i hear the ecu run the caR. So i guess i'm officially an idiot that enjoys throwing money out the window, I'm an optimist who hopes that his instincts and past experiences yield insight as to who is a sketchy seller and who is a legit seller. or I'm both an idiot and an optimist who enjoys taking risks that results in me wrecklessly throwing money out windows, with no thought of how to regain money if purchased goods are better off as nice looking paperweights. lol.

 

yes e85 would be roughly equivalent to 100 octane.

no you're not an idiot lol, and yes any Honda tuner should be fine tuning an ecu with no sticker on it. they all use the same coding anyway (with the exception of p72's), so it really wouldn't matter what ecu you have as long as its tuneable at all, which it obviously is. any tuneable ecu besides p72's would use a p30 code base.
besides, if it's a p06 with vtec added, its no longer a p06 anyhow, it's now converted to a p28.