94 gsr.


Replaced pass side axel a while ago put everything back together and TQ'd to spec. What happens is the car will wobble under acceleration between 70-120KPH or if I launch the car then it will do it from the start. Plot twist some times it's fine ! even under a hard launch regardless it seems to go away after 140kph. The axel is fully seated and was brand new the wobble is felt in the steering wheel the most(obvious I guess). it's a real pain
and it seems to rob the car of potential power it could be putting to the wheels. have x3 checked that everything is tight and TQ'd to spec so any help is welcome !!

Going to try my civic's front wheels and see if it still does it.

 

how are the engine mounts?

tie rods?

front subframe bracing bushing?

rack might need tightening?

 

1:passenger one has some issue

2:driver side has the boot ripped

3:Not sure where to look

4:Not sure how


thing is, it NEVER did this before the axel install I thoroughly read a diy on how to plus it's an easy task just with some tough parts(axel nut).

 

might be the new axle itself...read elsewhere that others have put in bad reman axles before...can you take it back and get a replacement?

 

This was a brand new in ox axel that being said it was only 99$ lol. no I can't I lost the receipt I may just "roll with it" till I throw my CC s2 clutch in come springs i'm 1 week away from school starting up again so I can't take on a clutch job now. plus I just bought an NRG wheel kit so i'm kinda broke

 

only if your tie rod boots are ripped then they are out, or on their way out. if you have play then you'll need to swap.

another thing to take note. if the bearings in the axle, weren't aligned when you put everything together, they could be binding. all you would need to do is just go and wiggle the end a little till it rotates easy.

 

on the part that attached to the knuckle ? I can twist the tie rod as if I were trying to tighter or undo it(both of them. as for the axel the end that sits in the spindle was VERY stiff and was hard to angle into the spindle if that matters. would It be worth removing the axel again ? I have the tools/time.

 

Also try re-seating the lower ball joint making sure both area around the b/j and around the hole it goes into are clean. Have you checked the lower/upper b/j for any play? I always tighten the castle nut tighter than snug (to the next hole on the nut from snug so its tight)

 

How do I check for play in the ball joint ? the nut is somewhat over TQ's with the cotter pin in place

 

Prybar between the two pieces that the ball joint connects. Should have no play, minimal, if any.

 

jack up the car, hold the wheel with one hand on top and one hand on bottom.

check for play.

 

That will tell you if the wheel bearing is bad, too. Not bad to check though.

 

ok will check both those out today hopefully it's just strange that it does it some time and then is fine others

 

how true are your wheels and the balancing? also has anything been done with the steering rack? i've also seen some nasty wheel bearing issues, as well as a sticky caliper... just some things to look at.. that is an annoying issue.

 

sorry just read more in depth. i am a parts director at our dealership, and yes REMAN axles go bad at least 20% of the time, is it a Cardone half shaft? You can get new standard half shafts for only $20 more nowadays. pm me if you need help sourcing a good one.

 

this is true, I got the Cardone Select brand new axle for my 97 civic and it was only $55 with shipping from Rockauto.

 

its ur axle bro for sure. i had the exact same symptoms u had when i bought my BRAND new axles not Reman. They were the cardone ones too. Finally got around to it and swapped the pass side with a raxles axle and never had a problem since.

 

That's what I'm thinking too now sadly, it never did this before the axel swap. I found the receipt ! but now i'll need to find a new axel may stop in at Teknotik and see they have. School starts up in 12 days so I gotta hurry this up. again no clue what brand of axel this is but it was 99$ lol another problem with part store brand ****

 

just ask for a replacement, and try that one before you upgrade...

 

cardone and surtrack have limited lifetime warranty (no racing allowed tho lol).

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,2288

 

found the box ! it's a surtrack i'll need to find a new one before I remove the old one as this is my DD of sorts. not sure if i'm up to try another replacemant

 

second time you take out and install will be much easier since everything is now not seized .............

 

Ok car's off the road till next spring going to remove the axel and return it to part source. Anyone had experience with Yonaka axels ? I'm not ordering from raxels as i'd rather not pay huge shipping amount to Canada may just look for a junk yard one. Or DSS I know they're not cheap but I bet they are good quality.

 

you could always get a FREE replacement from part source and try it out, it unlikely you will get TWO bad axels in a row , and if it still fails then get a refund.

 

FWIW, I have the same issue right now and I'm pretty sure it's the axle. Cardone axle, $99 one.