b18c1 block with ls crank and rods?? help
alright i need help from people that have had done this or have good feedback on this set up...
i have a b18c1 block thats fresh out of the machine shop... block guard, honed, line honed, etc everything good, stock bore 81mm...
i have a ls crank and oem ls rods laying around and i want to go with that set up instead of the gsr crank and rods..
ive read and heard different things that the ls crank hit against the oil squirters and that the oil squirters need to be bent a lil for clearance....
i need to know the pros and cons about this and if theirs any other things i need to worry about...
my set up in mind its
gsr block
ls crank
ls rods
ctr b16b pistons
b16 head
type r cams
etc
thanks.
i have a b18c1 block thats fresh out of the machine shop... block guard, honed, line honed, etc everything good, stock bore 81mm...
i have a ls crank and oem ls rods laying around and i want to go with that set up instead of the gsr crank and rods..
ive read and heard different things that the ls crank hit against the oil squirters and that the oil squirters need to be bent a lil for clearance....
i need to know the pros and cons about this and if theirs any other things i need to worry about...
my set up in mind its
gsr block
ls crank
ls rods
ctr b16b pistons
b16 head
type r cams
etc
thanks.
WHY ? there is NO gain to using an ls rotating assembly. since your bottom end would be an "ls bottom" you'll be limited as to how high you can rev. Blackguards are a waste. the rods are the weak point of an ls....along with other components
And for the blockguard comment, i know now theres better things out there to replace using a blockguard besides sleeves etc but maybe it hasnt worked out for you.. ive built 3 engines on boost with stock sleeves stock bore only blockguard.. and all 3 are 450+hp and its been a good 3 years for 2 of them and they still running with no issues.. matter fact one its a b16 and its in the 600hp range.. just with a lowsy blockguard and stocksleeves..
Originally Posted by CanoTech88
Quote:
Originally Posted by B_Swapped93
WHY ? there is NO gain to using an ls rotating assembly. since your bottom end would be an "ls bottom" you'll be limited as to how high you can rev. Blackguards are a waste. the rods are the weak point of an ls....along with other components
Really?? Explain to me how their isnt any type of gain???. youll get more torque and hp than what the gsr motor puts out...your basicly stroking it and displacement will be 1834.47 its not that crazy of a difference but its good more torque on a honda= good..... and for the crank you basicly go get it balanced at a machine shop that way it can rev high without any failures...for the ls rods yes they are weak but all you need its arp bolts and their good till 300hp.. I know this for a fact. Remember this is an all motor set up im not boosting nothing lol..
And for the blockguard comment, i know now theres better things out there to replace using a blockguard besides sleeves etc but maybe it hasnt worked out for you.. ive built 3 engines on boost with stock sleeves stock bore only blockguard.. and all 3 are 450+hp and its been a good 3 years for 2 of them and they still running with no issues.. matter fact one its a b16 and its in the 600hp range.. just with a lowsy blockguard and stocksleeves..
Originally Posted by B_Swapped93
WHY ? there is NO gain to using an ls rotating assembly. since your bottom end would be an "ls bottom" you'll be limited as to how high you can rev. Blackguards are a waste. the rods are the weak point of an ls....along with other components
Really?? Explain to me how their isnt any type of gain???. youll get more torque and hp than what the gsr motor puts out...your basicly stroking it and displacement will be 1834.47 its not that crazy of a difference but its good more torque on a honda= good..... and for the crank you basicly go get it balanced at a machine shop that way it can rev high without any failures...for the ls rods yes they are weak but all you need its arp bolts and their good till 300hp.. I know this for a fact. Remember this is an all motor set up im not boosting nothing lol..
And for the blockguard comment, i know now theres better things out there to replace using a blockguard besides sleeves etc but maybe it hasnt worked out for you.. ive built 3 engines on boost with stock sleeves stock bore only blockguard.. and all 3 are 450+hp and its been a good 3 years for 2 of them and they still running with no issues.. matter fact one its a b16 and its in the 600hp range.. just with a lowsy blockguard and stocksleeves..
about the oil squirter in some case depending on combination yes you will have to bend it a little to get out of the way, to my belief not all oil squirter are all shape to be the exact same some would clear and some would need to be mod. but in your case i wouldn't worried about the oil squirter as they are easy to be delth with if your careful, i would worried more about the bolt that is holding it down i believe a little bit of it got to be taken off to clear the 89mm stroke. only way to know exactly is to install the whole rotating assembly and see for yourself.
Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android
You can always get a golden Eagle oil squirter delete kit. My question is will u have pistons to valve contact with that piston/rod/crank combo?
Also i don't support lsvtec or ls crank in gsr. Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the gsr crank/rods lighter then the ls ones. What does that tell u. Im not a fan of the b16b motor but obviously honda had a reason to down stroke it before spinning it as fast as they did. Just my .02
Also i don't support lsvtec or ls crank in gsr. Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the gsr crank/rods lighter then the ls ones. What does that tell u. Im not a fan of the b16b motor but obviously honda had a reason to down stroke it before spinning it as fast as they did. Just my .02
Last edited by aavtec; Aug 17, 2013 at 05:35 PM.
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If going with forged internal, the oil squirters can be removed and go with the GE kit
My ls crank in my gsr hit the oil squirters, it would hit the bolt of the oil squirters and the pistons coming down would hit the oil squirter itself. I just removed it and replace with golden eagle oil squirter plugoff.
I rev mine to 8200rpm all day and no problems.
I rev mine to 8200rpm all day and no problems.
correct! although blockguard isn't really necessary to achieve that amount of hp and been proven multiple time already, but add a teny tiny bit of insurance at a price that if it was me i would of throw my money elsewhere toward something that would benefit me more.
about the oil squirter in some case depending on combination yes you will have to bend it a little to get out of the way, to my belief not all oil squirter are all shape to be the exact same some would clear and some would need to be mod. but in your case i wouldn't worried about the oil squirter as they are easy to be delth with if your careful, i would worried more about the bolt that is holding it down i believe a little bit of it got to be taken off to clear the 89mm stroke. only way to know exactly is to install the whole rotating assembly and see for yourself.
Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android
about the oil squirter in some case depending on combination yes you will have to bend it a little to get out of the way, to my belief not all oil squirter are all shape to be the exact same some would clear and some would need to be mod. but in your case i wouldn't worried about the oil squirter as they are easy to be delth with if your careful, i would worried more about the bolt that is holding it down i believe a little bit of it got to be taken off to clear the 89mm stroke. only way to know exactly is to install the whole rotating assembly and see for yourself.
Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android
cool... thanks for the help.. i know this set up its going to be bad *** all motor or boost... so im now considering going boost and buying eagle rods and wiseco pistons since im bout to get some unspected money lol so ill just get the GE oil squirters delete kit anyways just to do it the right way... but thanks to everyone who commented... if anyone else has anymore suggestions or good positive comments plz share them...
Yea just get aftermarket rods and pistons and u won't have to worry about oil squirters. Golden eagle kit worked good for me. Cp pistons cp rings and eagle rods are what I used. Also if u goin aftermarket internals make sure u balance the rotating assembly. Bigger injector and cams would definetly help u get more power out of the lsv.
Originally Posted by Eg.ls.turbo
Yea just get aftermarket rods and pistons and u won't have to worry about oil squirters. Golden eagle kit worked good for me. Cp pistons cp rings and eagle rods are what I used. Also if u goin aftermarket internals make sure u balance the rotating assembly. Bigger injector and cams would definetly help u get more power out of the lsv.
Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android
This is the same as many other LS/VTEC builds.
Yes, you can use the LS rotating assembly - rods and crank
You must remove the GSR oil squirters or the crank will contact them. Golden Eagle makes block-off plugs that thread in.
http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/index....57b5ruto337rl7
Follow this for LS/VTEC info and a great build thread: https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/how-build-%22reliable%22-lsvtec-b20vtec-1676914/
Yes, you can use the LS rotating assembly - rods and crank
You must remove the GSR oil squirters or the crank will contact them. Golden Eagle makes block-off plugs that thread in.
http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/index....57b5ruto337rl7
Follow this for LS/VTEC info and a great build thread: https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/how-build-%22reliable%22-lsvtec-b20vtec-1676914/
my turbo motor uses an ls crank in a jdm gsr block. longer stroke y0!
as said, use the squirter plug kit from golden eagle. if you are using aftermarket rods/pistons you are golden. if you are going to use oem rods have the arp 8mm studs pressed in and then have the big end of the rod rehoned to be round again.
as said, use the squirter plug kit from golden eagle. if you are using aftermarket rods/pistons you are golden. if you are going to use oem rods have the arp 8mm studs pressed in and then have the big end of the rod rehoned to be round again.
my turbo motor uses an ls crank in a jdm gsr block. longer stroke y0!
as said, use the squirter plug kit from golden eagle. if you are using aftermarket rods/pistons you are golden. if you are going to use oem rods have the arp 8mm studs pressed in and then have the big end of the rod rehoned to be round again.
as said, use the squirter plug kit from golden eagle. if you are using aftermarket rods/pistons you are golden. if you are going to use oem rods have the arp 8mm studs pressed in and then have the big end of the rod rehoned to be round again.
i already bought: 81mm wiseco pistons, LS eagle rods, competition clutch kit and flywheel, golden eagle delete kit for oil squirters, etc and more...
my questions is.. im going to buy acl race bearings budo i use LS or GSR bearings? or GSR for main and LS for Rods? ive heard different things by different people so just want to know.
all b series main bearings are the same.
use whatever bearings get you to spec. if it's race bearings, so be it. LS rod bearings, or b16 tri-metal bearings work as well. I believe the LS acl bearings are tri-metal.
use whatever bearings get you to spec. if it's race bearings, so be it. LS rod bearings, or b16 tri-metal bearings work as well. I believe the LS acl bearings are tri-metal.
Save for good rods and forged pistons. It will be worth in it the long run.
And once you get forged pistons go ahead and delete the oil squirters it will keep your oil pressure stable if not A little higher .
And once you get forged pistons go ahead and delete the oil squirters it will keep your oil pressure stable if not A little higher .
With the amount of trouble I've been having trying to find a new forged gsr crank, it looks like I may be going in this direction too. Keep me posted on what you come up with.
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I personally built one. Threw it together with parts laying around shop, ran strong. Didn't even use the block off squirters. Just bent them a little back and clearance was just fine.
I just started into this and excuse my dumbfuckery if i am mistaken. I am looking to rebuild my 93 del sol and I want to put a b18c1 motor in it with an ls tranny and a b16 head. I've been looking everywhere but this is the best i got. Can someone help me with all the parts and suggested mods i should do.??



