Alright guys well I got a rod knocking in cylinder 4 so It time for a rebuild I would say so is anyone up for this?? I already have the motor pulled out and everything I have a 01 gsr this would be my first rebuild I have been around cars so I know how to turn a wrench. So would anyone like to chime in to give some good advice if you have done this before I have done lots of research already and have my plan. I already have some parts on the way so let me know guys

 

What do u need help with?

Lots of stuff that is very important to list. Measuring rod and main clearance is a very crucial step to make sure the bearings are getting oil in the bearings. Bad clearance on the bearings can cause improper lubrication on the bearings and wear down in no time or have a spun rod bearings. also when u buy new rings for the pistons they would have to be measure in the cylinder to ensure good sealing, shaving the rings is a crucial step too, not too tight or you'll cause the motor to seize up, shave too much and not squared can cause blow-by and loose compression and horse power.

 

Very important make sure u get a Haynes manual to guide u thru step by step.

 

Yea I will pick up a Haynes asap but really everything you mentioned i would need help with. I havent tore the block down yet, but I have the motor pulled out already and just debating on if I should just take it to a shop or me do it myself. I mean I have all the tools, I guess its just that fear of messing something up. But its all stock and I plan on upgrading pistions dunno about the rods but what else should I upgrade and keep stock. I already have a oem water pump I still need the oil pump gotta get the pistons like I said. Im also gonna do the blockguard on it as well.

 

I can post pictures of what I have so far so maybe everyone can get a ideal of what I am working with here. Then take it from there.

 

Why ? those are a waste of money

 

So no blockguard then so I should just sleeve the block then

 

I was boosted as well running 7 pounds low boost on a all stock gsr motor so I already have all tgose goodies to throw back on there as well I wanna reach 500 hp

 

if your goal is 500hp....I'd sleeve it.

 

^^^^^ agreed

Main thing is to get ur block work done by a good machine shop. Get it sleeved honed check for deck and cracks just in case. Then make u sure micro polish the crank balance rotating assemblies. When u go to putting the bearings and rings together lube everything with assembly oil, I like to use Lucas assembly lube other peeps may differ. Don't lube up cylinder walls just spray wd40 and u good.

 

yes 500 ish is my goal I know I'm gonna definitely have to up my injectors I'm running 500 cc right now. Should I go ahead and bore out the block as well or just leave that as is??

 

okay dumb question here lol. How do I post pictures up on here so yall can see what I'm working with here??

 

blockguards reduce cooling and barely add more sleeve stability

absolutely not worth it

any idea what caused your knock? you need to inspect the bearings and measure the rods for out of round along with the crank. a lot of times guys can get by with nothing more than a bore and hone for machine work. if your measurements are good you can use the color coded honda bearings to get the correct clearance.

make sure you do the final hone with a very fine ball hone. 600-800 grit would be good. honda rings need a VERY fine hone surface

also, if you change ANYTHING in the bottom end, like new pistons etc. you must rebalance the entire rotating assembly again. the last thing you want is an 8000rpm engine that's 8 grams out and vibrates

 

Well I think my problem came from low oil cause when I pulled the turbo off and the header the thing that holds the oil dipstick in was out and it looked like oil blew out of it. But I cant say I'm 100% sure that was the cause of it. But thank god I was only 2 blocks away and made it home. But before I pulled the motor I started it one last time to hear and I have a knock coming from cylinder 4 and the car lost all power on the way home I had hardly and power to make it. If I could figure out how to post pictures on here I would to show everyone what I have going on here.

 

I have to say Thanks though to all you Guys who have chimed in ASAP I really appreciate it a lot much respect to everyone for helping.

 

You could always give the CCS a shot on the block as opposed to sleeving. It's guaranteed for 500whp. http://www.cylindersupportsystem.com/

Just another option.

 

Oh wow thanks I just checked out that link. Have you tried these or know of anyone who has?

 

Alright well here is what my plan is so far after doing more research last night. Tear the block down ship it out to get sleeved decked and honed and bored to 83mm. Run low compression 9 to 5 maybe lower really haven't made up my mind on that yet. I plan on selling my garret turbo headers and injectors and upgrade both turbo and injectors. I plan on running on pump gas

 

just so you know since no one has yet.

theres. 99% chance that your crankshaft is garbage. honda cranks are nitride coated anywhere from .001-.003in deep amd sometimes less. its not am exact number. spinning a bearing usally results in journal damage beyond that which is repairable with micro polishing or even a light turning of the journal. you can have them re coated but at the end it would cost more than finding a fresh crank


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oh and **** a hayes manual. get an integra factory service manual and look up evans tunings article on rebuilding a gsr block.

http://www.evans-tuning.com/tech-art...-a-gsr-engine/


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That's good info too, but as u see in the PICTURE they also have a Haynes manual.

 

this is true

if your crank is toast you may be money ahead just shipping the block to golden eagle and having them sleeve and build your bottom end

 

Yea I was thinking golden eagle or benson to have them do it. Do yall really think my crank would be toast too?

 

Okay guys I just sold my Garrett turbo and mani would billet be a good turbo to run with to hit my 500+ mark? Can I do this on pump gas as well? Would I have to switch to race fuel?

 

I'm gonna have my block sleeved and bore it out to 84mm. If my crank is toast should I upgrade that as well or just get the same one I have on it now just new?