F22a1 mods help
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From: Albuquerque
F22a1 mods help
Ok I have read a lot of threads on what you can do to add a little hp to the engine like a h23 intake mani, a6 camshaft, cold air intake and a f22a4 exhaust mani. Does that sound right but I can't seem to find any of these parts on eBay or anything can someone tell me where to find them? And possible other not cheap but upgrades
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From: Lewistown Pa
Re: F22a1 mods help
H23 intake, bisimoto stage 2 cam, full exhaust, and a chipped p06 will net you roughly 60-70hp on a healty engine and only cost about 400-600 depending on where you get the parts
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Re: F22a1 mods help
Here's the most in depth mod guide I could find,
http://www.hondahookup.com/forums/sh...=1#post1949313
- Deevergote
http://www.hondahookup.com/forums/sh...=1#post1949313
"Get the intake manifold off of an F22a6 (92-93 Accord EX) or better yet, the intake manifold from the H23 (Prelude Si, the non-vtec DOHC motor 92-95). $30-$50 at most junkyards. You'll need the throttle body as well, at least for the H23 manifold.
With that intake manifold, which has an IAB system (secondary runners with a butterfly system), you'll need the ECU from the F22A6, the PT6. You'll also need the "black box" that controls the IABs. You'll know it when you see it in the engine bay.
Another ECU option is to find a P12 ECU from a 92-95 Prelude S, which is equipped with the F22A1 as well. The motors are identical between the Prelude and the Accord, but the Prelude's F22A1 makes 10hp more. It's all in the ECU. This ECU will not control the IAB system in the A6 or H23 intake manifolds. You CAN activate the IAB system using vacuum instead of an electrical signal, or you could remove the IAB plate and just run with the secondary runners open all the time. That will make for good top end power, but a little soggy down low.
An ECU should run you $30-$50 as well.
The F22A4 (90-91 EX) has a tubular header, rather than the crappy cast manifold of the F22A1. The F22A4 is identical to the F22A1 in every way except for that one part. That's a 5hp gain right there.
$25 or so for that piece would be about right.
The F22A6 also has a more aggressive camshaft. It's not incredibly significant, but it does make for some more power. Again, the PT6 will give you the right fuel map for this.
As for aftermarket stuff:
An inexpensive short ram intake from ebay will do well. However, I would replace the crappy filter that comes on it with a quality AEM or K&N filter. Intake would be about $40, filter another $35 or so... unless you can find a good used one. AEM and K&N filters should last a very very long time.
If you don't mind a loud exhaust, there are very inexpensive ones on ebay that work, such as this one:
Ebay Exhaust That's about $155 shipped. A higher quality system can cost over $500, though the sound would be considerably better!
You can also get a camshaft regrind from Delta or Web (google these... they come up easily). For a little more money, you can get a REALLY good camshaft from www.bisimoto.com (tell 'Bisi I sent you if you go there. Bisimoto makes the best F22A parts ANYWHERE)
The F22A head actually flows extremely well. If you pick up a spare head (I've sold them for $50) and had some minor port and polish work done to it, you could see some significant gains, especially from he exhaust ports, which are rather restrictive.
Once you get into wild camshafts and headwork, you'll want to be able to tune your ECU. A P06 from a 92-95 Civic LX/DX is very useful, and very inexpensive. Read up on www.pgmfi.org if you have any interest in learning how to do that.
OR, you could go the turbo route. I once built a turbo kit for an F22A1 for about $700. Granted, I was planning on blowing the motor up... but with a larger turbo, I wouldn't have. I crashed the car before the kit went on, sadly.
You can build a cheap turbo kit using DSM parts (eclipse, talon, laser). The turbo manifolds fit with minor redrilling. The injectors fit with minor modification to the O rings. The 14b turbo can be used, though it is a little small... 10psi or less (about 80-100hp added) will be doable with that turbo, though. Intercooler piping will have to be custom. Some people use the DSM side mount intercooler, though I'd recommend the front mount found on a Mitsubishi Starion or Chrysler Conquest. The one from a Fuso truck will work as well. Oil lines are about $80... Stealthmode makes good ones. The downpipe will need to be custom... an exhaust shop can do that. You can have the car towed, or take your chances driving with an open turbo! (it'll be VERY loud!)
If you go turbo, you WILL need that P06. You can get it running on a "basemap"... but DO NOT DRIVE ON IT! I've seen way too many blown motors because people thought a basemap was for driving. It is only to get the car running so it can be tuned!
So there you have it. F22A1 mods in a nutshell.
If you look around on boards like cb7tuner.com and honda-tech.com, you'll see some pretty impressive things done with the F22A1. A member named straightedge is making over 400whp on a stock block (turbo with 112 octane race gas... but still stock internals!). Bisimoto is a professional drag racer, making over 400hp NATURALLY ASPIRATED (non-turbo) with an F22A1 in his Insight race car. On pump gas.
So many people yank the F22A out for an H22A, F22B, F22B1 (ugh... terrible motor!), H23, etc... I have an H22A myself. The F22A has a ridiculous amount of potential, and people are just now realizing it!"
With that intake manifold, which has an IAB system (secondary runners with a butterfly system), you'll need the ECU from the F22A6, the PT6. You'll also need the "black box" that controls the IABs. You'll know it when you see it in the engine bay.
Another ECU option is to find a P12 ECU from a 92-95 Prelude S, which is equipped with the F22A1 as well. The motors are identical between the Prelude and the Accord, but the Prelude's F22A1 makes 10hp more. It's all in the ECU. This ECU will not control the IAB system in the A6 or H23 intake manifolds. You CAN activate the IAB system using vacuum instead of an electrical signal, or you could remove the IAB plate and just run with the secondary runners open all the time. That will make for good top end power, but a little soggy down low.
An ECU should run you $30-$50 as well.
The F22A4 (90-91 EX) has a tubular header, rather than the crappy cast manifold of the F22A1. The F22A4 is identical to the F22A1 in every way except for that one part. That's a 5hp gain right there.
$25 or so for that piece would be about right.
The F22A6 also has a more aggressive camshaft. It's not incredibly significant, but it does make for some more power. Again, the PT6 will give you the right fuel map for this.
As for aftermarket stuff:
An inexpensive short ram intake from ebay will do well. However, I would replace the crappy filter that comes on it with a quality AEM or K&N filter. Intake would be about $40, filter another $35 or so... unless you can find a good used one. AEM and K&N filters should last a very very long time.
If you don't mind a loud exhaust, there are very inexpensive ones on ebay that work, such as this one:
Ebay Exhaust That's about $155 shipped. A higher quality system can cost over $500, though the sound would be considerably better!
You can also get a camshaft regrind from Delta or Web (google these... they come up easily). For a little more money, you can get a REALLY good camshaft from www.bisimoto.com (tell 'Bisi I sent you if you go there. Bisimoto makes the best F22A parts ANYWHERE)
The F22A head actually flows extremely well. If you pick up a spare head (I've sold them for $50) and had some minor port and polish work done to it, you could see some significant gains, especially from he exhaust ports, which are rather restrictive.
Once you get into wild camshafts and headwork, you'll want to be able to tune your ECU. A P06 from a 92-95 Civic LX/DX is very useful, and very inexpensive. Read up on www.pgmfi.org if you have any interest in learning how to do that.
OR, you could go the turbo route. I once built a turbo kit for an F22A1 for about $700. Granted, I was planning on blowing the motor up... but with a larger turbo, I wouldn't have. I crashed the car before the kit went on, sadly.
You can build a cheap turbo kit using DSM parts (eclipse, talon, laser). The turbo manifolds fit with minor redrilling. The injectors fit with minor modification to the O rings. The 14b turbo can be used, though it is a little small... 10psi or less (about 80-100hp added) will be doable with that turbo, though. Intercooler piping will have to be custom. Some people use the DSM side mount intercooler, though I'd recommend the front mount found on a Mitsubishi Starion or Chrysler Conquest. The one from a Fuso truck will work as well. Oil lines are about $80... Stealthmode makes good ones. The downpipe will need to be custom... an exhaust shop can do that. You can have the car towed, or take your chances driving with an open turbo! (it'll be VERY loud!)
If you go turbo, you WILL need that P06. You can get it running on a "basemap"... but DO NOT DRIVE ON IT! I've seen way too many blown motors because people thought a basemap was for driving. It is only to get the car running so it can be tuned!
So there you have it. F22A1 mods in a nutshell.
If you look around on boards like cb7tuner.com and honda-tech.com, you'll see some pretty impressive things done with the F22A1. A member named straightedge is making over 400whp on a stock block (turbo with 112 octane race gas... but still stock internals!). Bisimoto is a professional drag racer, making over 400hp NATURALLY ASPIRATED (non-turbo) with an F22A1 in his Insight race car. On pump gas.
So many people yank the F22A out for an H22A, F22B, F22B1 (ugh... terrible motor!), H23, etc... I have an H22A myself. The F22A has a ridiculous amount of potential, and people are just now realizing it!"
- Deevergote
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From: Albuquerque
Ok one more question my speedometer is not working well it works but its not running the right speed I think its running 15 over when I'm going 45 I'm really going 30 I have a 95 accord with a f22a1 swap what would it be?
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Re: F22a1 mods help
Do you have big *** tired on your car? I don't know what else would cause that other than your gauge cluster.
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From: Albuquerque
Re: F22a1 mods help
Tires you mean? No I don't they are 15s would I have to swap out the gauge clusters from my 95 accord to the 91 accord ? If so would it even fit? Or could it be my speed sensor or the wire running to it that's bad I'm trying to read up on it but having trouble finding anything with the same problem
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