Hello honda-tech.
This might be long,
I'm having problems with my 1990 civic hatch. It has a d16y7 swap in it.
Well here's my problem I was on my way home, when I started smelling burnt plastic and thought someone was burning trash or something. I decided to pull and make sure it wasn't me. When I popped the hood open I saw a small fire under the air intake near the fuel filter. I had a water bottle and immediately doused the fire. The cause of the fire was my battery, it had grounded out onto the intake pipe. Their were some steel braided hoses that went into the nos system that the previous owner had that had gotten eaten up by the heat of the fire I assume. I went to start it, because it died as I pulled over. It did not start, I check the ecu and it blinks 15 times which means ignition output signal. I didn't know what to do next so I had my aunt tow me to her house. It's been their for about 3 days. I don't know what to look for. I am getting fuel but not spark.
Sorry for it being so long I just need some help as this is my school car.

 

I had the same code and my solution was to replace the entire distributor as the coil and igniter went bad. The distributor essentially imploded and melted the rotor. Have you tried looking at your distributor?

Did the fire damage the fuse box or any wires leading to it?

 

I have a friend that has an auto body shop that came by a day after, he checked all the fuses and said they were fine. He let me borrow a d16y8 distributor, but it is obd2 so it has one plug while mine has two. Is it possible to cut the wires and solder them onto the the old plugs. I'll check the wires too.
Thanks

 

Before trying to solder on the connectors (which is possible), I would take off the distributor cap on the unit that is installed in your car to see if the internals are OK.

You also mentioned the small fire you had that was caused by a short, are all your ground cables secured and in place? I did a lot of reading when my EF had Code 15 and some members on the forum suggested to check engine grounds when the car will not start.

 

I will check my grounds tomorrow. I took off the cap earlier and the insides didn't look bad, I couldn't really see anything though because the top part of the distributor. I'll take it off tomorrow for a closer look.

 

Well I took off f the original distributor and now I need help with wiring the obd2 distributor.
Here's the harness to the dizzy

And here's the harness to the ecu

Here's the wires from the harness to the dizzy.
The pics might be backwards.
And heres

 

Well I wired up the new distributor and I am getting spark it just doesn't want to start. It sounded like it was about to but it didn't.
Any suggestions on what to look for.
And I'm getting a code 20 now.

 

That's an open ground code.

One of your ground wires has gone bad, maybe mid cable, or wiggled out. Check the thermostat ground, the transmission ground and the valve cover ground. If it looks bad, replace the wire. An easy fix to your problem if that is all it is.

 

I'd definitely check the thermostat ground as said above. I had a loose one on the thermostat before on a d16y8 and it wouldn't start until I cleaned it and put it back on.

 

I'll check those grounds out tomorrow, thanks.
Hopefully when I get my new main relay tomorrow it will start.

 

Quick question, where would the thermostat be?

 

Go on youtueb and type in ericthe car guy distributor spark check could be your coil or rotor isnt touching the cap

 

Well it finally started.
But the damn thing won't go over 3000 rpm.
Help

 

I also have a code 4 and 15 still

 

Well I looked at the wires running coming out of the ecu and noticed this wire was all mangled.
What would cause this.

 

Also this wire seems like it burned the pin out or connector, Idk what it's called.

How do you go about correcting that?
Thanks

 

Is this the thermostat ground or what is this.
It sits under the dizzy

 

I think thats ur reverse sensor

 

Ok thanks.
I got it to drive now, but it's still in limp mode and giving me code 4 also my speedo stopped working.
If anyone can help thanks.

 

If u rewired ur distributor wires and it started giving u this limp mode after and ur rpms are not working, u accidentally switched wires around, look at the 2 wire plug to ur dizzy and make sure theyre not backwards, as far as the limp mode u might of done the same thing to the 2 crank sensor wires, try switching them too

 

I've got good news.
It somehow fixed itself.
It finally goes over 3000 rpm but I need to fix my speedometer

 

Never mind it's acting up again. Buy I don't see how it could have been running fine and now it's in limp mode again.
This ducks.

 

Well, my car ran great for the first week of school. Except it would jerk every now and then, usually random. Could this be because I was running it without a hood for that week( I finally put it on today). It didn't rain hard or anything it had lightly sprinkled mid week. Also it randomly goes into limp mode. It still gives a code 4 but runs good when it wants to.
If anyone can chime in thanks...