Hi Everyone,

I'm new on here. I recently purchased a completely stock 2000 Civic Si with 150,000 miles on it and zero rust. The previous owner had fixed a burnt exhaust valve and replaced an injector. Since buying the car I've been experiencing hard starts about 75% of the time regardless of whether the engine is hot or cold. The car starts after turning over once, sometimes twice or even 5 times. It just depends on the day.

Now here's my problem. I've gone over a lot of items on the car to try and solve this issue, including taking it to a shop and speaking to a dealership mechanic and I cannot track down this problem. The following is is list of things that I've either checked or replaced.

• New Distributor (ICU included)
• New Spark Plugs
• Timing Adjusted
• (2) Seafoam Treatments
• Throttle Body Carbon Removal
• Replaced Fuel Pump with used pump
• Main Relay Checked -OK
• Fuel Filter (New from previous owner)
• New Fuel Pressure Regulator
• Engine Compression -(Good/Average)
• New Idle Air Control Valve
• Throttle Position Sensor - (Idle 0.5v-4.44v WOT)
• MAP (Visually Inspected)
• Fuel Pressure Measured -OK
• ECU Checked -OK
• PVC Valve Inspected -OK

Does anyone have any suggestions for what I should do next? I really don't want to pay a dealership to go nuts tracking it down and charging me up the you-know-what.

 

Are the plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, and coil also new?

By ICU, do you mean ICM?

 

Yes, those are all new. And yeah I meant the ICM.

 

Post the cylinder compression numbers and how you did the test.

 

I had my mechanic do it so I do not have the numbers.

 

Anyone know if there's something that the previous owner could have messed up when he was replacing that burnt valve?

 

Bump

 

When it doesn't start does the check engine light come on for two seconds and then cut off or does it just stay on?

 

Usually the CEL will not even come on. It did once to indicate an IAC problem, however I replaced it.

 

Can you explain what you mean by "hard start"?

Edit: NVM. Check your injectors and check timing.

 

The timing is ok. I'll take a look at the injectors.

 

Could be the fuel system.

I would check fuel pressure regulator first.
You can perform tests that can deem it good or bad, it can be found in the factory service manual for your vehicle.

 

a fuel pressure gauge is a handy thing to have on your car. I'd highly recommend getting one.

 

As I mentioned above. I did check the fuel pressure and it was fine. I also have already replaced the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel pump and filter.

 

b u m p

 

Do the cylinder compression tests yourself using a free rental of the tool from AutoZone. See FAQs sticky for instructions. Post the numbers. with the engine cold versus hot.

When you turn the key from off to ON(II), does the CEL turn on and then off after 2 seconds?

 

My CEL is staying on after the 2 seconds... I never noticed that before. I had only noticed when it stayed on while driving. I'll check the code and report back here when I'm done.

 

Sounds like a possible main relay to me.

 

The main relay has already been tested good.

 

Define "tested good"

 

You keep saying you tested things, and they're "fine", but you need to post actual numbers, or we can't help you. For example, 36PSI is still "within spec" for fuel pressure, but it's also right on the bottom edge of acceptable, and could cause a problem. Have you tested your battery voltage? I don't see any mention of your starting or charging system anywhere in your little list.

 

I replaced the main relay with and new one and there was no change.

 

when the burnt valve was fixed, was the head checked where that valve was and was the valve lapped in? And what about a valve adjustment?

 

I wish I had the answer to that question. The previous owner did the work himself and I don't have contact with him anymore to even ask. He was not a licensed mechanic and he told me he had learned what he knew from being on one of Honda's employee racing teams for a few years. All I know is that he only replaced the bad valve and I know he replaced the head gasket. I have heard that if you replace one valve that you should probably replace them all. Another thing that I think I forgot to mention is that he said that the owner before him actually drove the car for quite some time with that burnt valve.

 

"Licensed mechanic" means absolutely nothing. Most people would call me a "shade tree mechanic", because I do work in my parking lot, in the driveway, and in home garages, but I do better work and know more about cars than half of the ASE techs I've met. My step brother hangs out a lot with people at work, at his dealership - I've met a LOT of ASE techs.

If you have the car at a competent mechanic, let him do his job. There are two kinds of techs when it comes to an over-involved owner. We either hate you, because we know what we're doing and don't need your uneducated input, or we love you, because we'll take your uneducated input and use it to rack up a fat bill.

All that said, if you want us to help you, you need to give us actual numbers. Actual compression test numbers. Actual voltage and ohm readings from electrical tests.

What does the compression test show?
Do you have battery voltage at the injectors?
Does the CEL come on for ~3 seconds when you turn the key to ON(II), then turn off? If it doesn't, have you replaced the bulb? If it stays on, what codes are thrown? OBD1 or OBD2 codes are acceptable.
What voltage do you read across the terminals with the car OFF? With the car running?
Do you have battery voltage at the main starter cable?
Do you have 12v at the starter signal wire when turning the key to ON(III)?
What fuel pressure do you get at the fuel filter OR fuel rail with the key to ON(II)?

These are all of the questions that have been posed to you, that you either have not answered, or have not fully answered. Go down the list and answer all of them, and we'll have a solution for you in about two seconds.