I had 120's across the board....in each cylinder. Just 120 or like 119 on all 4. On a d16y8. I'm pretty sure that's no good...Any suggestions? I unplugged fuel pump fuse, did WOT, and cranked 8 times. I didnt have anything to try wet test. And frankly, I was too upset to even try. Should I rebuild? Thanks

 

Have you checked your timing?

 

No, I haven't. and im not too sure on how to check it. Is there a difference between checking ignition timing and other timing? Because I kind of understand the ignition timing just I don't have the gun on hand.

 

Ignition timing won't affect a compression test. They are different. Find the mark on your crank pulley and put it at top dead center by turning it with a socket. Then take the cam gear cover off and see if the timing mark on it is lined up. Does the car run like crap?

 

This is not a y8 but basically the same thing

 

Thanks for all that info. And I mean, it doesn't run like crap. But it sure as **** doesn't run how I think it should. Especially while driving. Going from first gear to third is more work than I want. I'll do the timing check ASAP. its down pouring right now and I'm going out to dinner. When I take off my VC will I need to replace the gasket or that honda bond stuff? Because I can't really do that right now. Thanks a lot!

 

I've taken em off without destroying the gasket but it just depends on how old it is lol. It's recommended you replace it. You cant expect much outta those engines but 120 is def pretty low.

 

would timing affect my acceleration? that seems to be a big problem. Like going from first gear through third its like stuttering and is never smooth if i gun it. If you don't understand I'll take a video. But its like im in first, and if i press on the accelerator pedal hard it like stutters, same with 2nd and 3rd.

 

Surprised a leakdown test wasn't suggested it may be as simple as replacing the valves or it could be the piston rings going out....which requires you take the pistons out re ring and hone. also how many miles/anything done to it ?. try a wet test also you may not like the numbers but if it barely jumps PSI wise from the wet test things aren't as bad as you may think.

 

I did a wet test only in the first cylinder. I added a bit of oil and reconnected the compression tester. It was actually a tad bit lower PSI. Instead of 120 it was like 115. That s when I threw in the towel.

And to be completely honest, I'm not 100% sure on the mileage of the engine. It "looks" to be in decent condition.

What's "P2J-1 with a 97" imprinted on the engine head?

 

It means its a d16y8 head and I guess that its a 1997. B_swapped is right on the leak down.

 

Okay, thats what I thought it meant... I was told it was a d16 from a 2000..maybe he meant the block. Ugh, added to the **** to check list before purchasing. And I don't have the tools for one. Maybe AutoZone has a leak down tester, that's how I got the compression tester.

 

you NEED am air compressor to do a leakdown test. Maybe best to get a shop to do that one for you the tester it's self is cheap so you could always just go rent a compressor.

 

there is nothing wrong with your motor, especially if all the numbers came out the same. if it has decent mileage on it, expect the numbers to come out low. was it up to operating temps when you did the test?

you should start worrying when there's a large variance between cylinders. +/- 10-15psi or so.

 

Okay, I own an air compressor actually! And doood, thats relieving. In the near future I will check out the timing and try a leakdown test. I also have a exhaust leak that I'm going to fix by just purchasing a new exhaust system. The rest of my tune-up supplies will arrive within a week. wires, cap/rotor, pcv and fuel filter.

 

good point, and was the throttle wide open?.
my stock y7 still pushes 180-186psi 1-4 with 358,xxxKM's so it all depends on how well the engine was treated,have also seen a 94 gsr push 240-250 with no rebuilds(user: Patrick94GSR).

imo if it was timing you'd notice something wrong with the idle and hesitation when driving

 

Yes, the accelerator pedal was pushed all the way down when doing each test.

 

If you're showing 120 across the board, and a wet test doesn't raise the compression, your valve seals are in rough shape and should be replaced. On the plus side, it's easier to rebuild a head than it is to rebuild an entire motor. On the neutral side, if you're going to pull the head to rebuild it, you might as well rebuild the bottom end while it's all apart anyway.

 

that would involve removing the whole engine to do the block right? to do the valve stem seals i just need to remove the VC right?

 

And the entire valve train. And the timing belt. And compress air into the cylinder to keep the valve from dropping. You can overhaul a motor without pulling the block, but you do have to strip it down.

 

You need to remove the timing belt to do valve stem seals? and instead of compressed air can't I just use a rope in the cylinder?

 

You have to remove the camshaft to remove the valve stem seals. You have to remove the timing belt to remove the camshaft. Yes, you do. Sure, you could use rope, I'm just a fan of the air method.

 

Okay, cool. Thanks, I'll run a leakdown test soon and hope for the best on that. Is there anyway I tell if a leak is because of the valve stem seals?

 

This is a very rough, simple, one-sentence explanation. A leakdown test pushes compressed air into a cylinder that should be fully closed, so you can listen and feel for where it comes out. If air is coming out through the valve cover, then it's coming from the valve stem seals. If it's coming from the bottom, it's rings. If it's coming through the coolant...how about we just don't get into that.

 

Haha, I appreciate the explanation. I will do a leakdown test asap and hope for the best. Now if I have no leaks, because every cylinder is giving the same result (120psi), what else could be causing low compression? Because having all 16 valve stem seals bad sounds shitty.