So surprise surprise my Mini Me y7/78 spun a bearing at 300 000k (180 000 miles approx.)

Since I have gotten this car I have had dreams of a DOHC swap dieing to go a little faster than my y7 could take me im on a new path to enlightenment fuel efficiency

I got a nitrous kit for a hundred bucks !!! wet kit 50 shot full bottle all lines and such somehow a buddy talked me into trading him for this Vtec E motor he had bought but wasn't going to use I said sure why not. its not like Im really gonna spray my motor with 300 000 on it

I have posted some pictures of the engine in other threads I have cleaned it and painted it.

so last week when my daily driver spun a bearing I did some research. First off when a rod starts knocking your already on borrowed time, Second I couldn't find much on VX in EK.......

well I only have half the parts to make this VX run right (missing Intake with EGR, and ECU,proper exhaust, 5 wire o2, and I have an Si transmission. my y7 tranny wasn't clean didn't want to clean or use it.)

So out of necessity I tossed the block and transmission into my car. I figured I would use my Y8 intake manifold and try my chances with the obd2b P2P Ecu and an obd1 motor

I have a 99 1.6 El wire harness.

y7 exhaust can with 2 o2's

A few problems and their fixes .

1. when I tried to use my 99 Y8 intake all it did was hiss like a retard leaking from somewhere that was a no go had to use the 0bd1 d15b intake without EGR

2. the fuel line wouldn't connect, wouldn't reach, wouldn't bend enough the fix I reversed it (see pics) works perfect.

3. not a problem but something to note - the evap canister solenoid from the 92-95 is usless . . I used the one from the y8 intake . . . plugs into my harness

4. I have a few engine codes. Crank fluctuation (not present on motor), Secondary O2 (a little lazy to connect the 4 wires), Knock sensor (no hole for it)

5. The power steering bracket for the eg doesn't hold the EK pump. the EK outlet line wont fit the EG pump. I had to use the EK bracket with the EK pump, but it sits like .5 degrees on an angle to the crank, its noticeable, but 200 miles and the belt looks fine, no wear

6. I used the y7 180 or 190 cc injectors, don't remember specs at the moment.

7. EG dizzy wouldn't wire up to my 99 SI harness, I used my y7 distributor. I had to file out the top hole a couple milimeters. The other two posts do not line up on the EG head. I checked the timing and using the top hole the timing was bang on. You can get a second bolt in the rear lower hole but it just catches the side of the dizzy, still holds.



So how does it run ? Amazing for now, it sits in fuel efficient mode throughout the rpm range. past 4k it revs up but doesn't seem to really move much lol downshifting seems like Im moving to less power !!!! like I actually start moving slower.

I have noticed over the course of the week that it has been running better and better every day. it used to cost me 10 bucks just to drive to work a day . . . now that same 10 bucks gets me to work and back 2 days and a little bit of running around town... how bad was my mini Me running that this vtec E is twice as efficient with the wrong stuff

So whats next

an intake with EGR valve . .
a P07 ECU and OBD2b - obd1 harness
NGK 5 wire o2
clean my Y7 transmission and install it. this Si tranny I got grinds hard in 3rd, and whines 1 thru 4 . . .

My tank is almost empty. Im going to start my mileage testing when it runs dry. When it runs dry and leaves me on the roadside im gonna pull out 20 litres in a jerry can and see exactly how far it gets me. I want to gauge what the proper parts are getting me in the way of mileage, so this will be my baseline.

Results to follow.

Some giggles for your imagination

See the crappy jack holding the car up, I couldn't find my floor jack so that was all I had.

See the axels attached to the transmission, didn't have a socket for the axels (wasn't buying it either), couldn't get the ball joints off (beat em good, I hate the boot buster tool, always wrecks the boot and costs more in the long run)

See the motor going up under the front. Didn't have an engine hoist either put the motor together under the front, lifted it up on a little wood, lowered the car to the engine

Ta daaaaa, thank you , thank you very much

Helpful advice and encouraging comments accepted. all haters find another thread to crap in. I really couldn't find a whole lot of information on this swap .. im working on my own knowledge, experience, and common sense

 

interested in how ya going to do (wire up)the PO7, egr valve and 5 wire O2 and see how it turns out for ya.
Want to do this to my cx also using the vx engine. Suubbbbsribeedddd

 

jack stands don't cost an arm and a leg. Get a set before you hurt someone or yourself.

 

Get some jack stand s and be safe. I also read very little of your post, using "...." after every 5 words destroys my eyes. Please use proper punctuation.

 

My apologies. My punctuation was horrible . . . did you see what time I posted that. I was drunk. I edited it for a more copacetic visual experience for your eyes.

So In my post I mentioned I used my common sense. Yes I did say all I had was a spare Honda jack to lift the car DOT DOT DOT DOT. But if you took a second to look at my pictures and what Im actually doing instead of looking for a way to crap on my thread . . .. you would notice my car is held up by 2 (TWO) jack stands AND the jack.

Thanks for being concerned with my safety. It is something I am also concerned with.

I only asked for helpful advice or encouraging comments.

Enough said, on with the thread

 

I know that not everyone can do an engine swap here . . . but anyone who takes the time to look, and has done an engine swap on this forum can appreciate what I went through and what Im trying to accomplish. Especially people who have had to bring their engine in from the bottom . . . . we don't all put it in from the top around here, at least I cant assume im not the only one . . .

 

Okay since this is a manual you can look to get the d16y5 intake manifold with egr, I'm thinking of using a 5 wire egr from a v6 j32. The plugs are different but the wires are the same with the addition of the egr solenoid being controlled within the same egr, meaning no more vacuum solenoid all power. You can run a chipped p28 with a p07 map or find a d16y5 ecu.

 

I have a p28 ecu and a guy who will chip it with po7 basemaps for 60 bucks . . I need a obd2b to obd1 adapter harness . . .

1. Can I make one (an adapter harness)? I have the plug ends from the VX harness I didn't use, and I have a P2E from the original setup to take the female end from. are there any directions anywhere.

2. will a chipped P28 really use the lean burn and 5 wire o2 though.

3. Im almost positive the d16y5 ecu wont work it wants 3 stage vtec . . .. correct?

 

just for ***** and giggles . . .

 

Good luck.
I just went through my first engine rebuild and it took 10 times longer than I thought it would.
In the end, it was well worth the time and effort and it was a huge learning experience for me.

 

d16y5 ecu is not the 3 stage vtec ecu. If you really want to take advantage of the lean burn than you will need to wire in the 5 wire and use the original vx ecu. The d16y5 ecu doesn't have lean burn but can run the motor just fine as they both. I have the d15b 3 stage vtec running on the d16y8 ecu for inspection purposes. I got lazy to hook the p2j ecu back up.

 

so I have the VX motor . . it has no CKF sensor or a knock sensor. still revs to at least 6000 that I have tried. I have engine codes it wont help me upon inspection.

I have emissions inspection next June. being a 2000 obd2b hatch . . they really want to hook up to my computer for that. Unless I pay 450$ for conditional pass . . . but that 450$ may defeat the purpose of the fuel efficient engine.... maybe I should just drop a y8 back in and enjoy my drive. . . Cuz WHAAAA DA **** this car is slow now.

I need to get a start on my mileage tests to see if this is even worth it.

 

Then you need to start sourcing parts or get a d16y5 engine in there.

 

Oh you can probably do the ckf bypass trick.

 

Sorry I skipped this, You can try but it might be a pain. You will need to crossreference wires and find egr pinout plus the 5 wire o2 sensor pinout. One of the o2 sensor wire has to be shielded so be wise about that.

 

good job man! like you said i can appreciate the time it takes to do swaps! its a pain but also fun in some sense. for sure learn a lot. i have taken a few motors out through the bottom.. not fun. i finally got a cherry picker so the past 3 times ive pulled/installed have been with that. its so much easier in some cases haha good luck man!

 

So yesterday I had some time so I was messing around with my car trying to fix a couple engine codes. I tried the CKF bypass to no avail, still a ckf code. Its actually the only code left. Im not sure why I don't have a knock sensor code or a Vtec solenoid code, but that's for another day I guess.

So I was listening to my radio while doing this. I finished my attempt at the bypass i got out of the car, pulled the hazard fuse, pulled the ECU fuse, pulled the negative terminal off the battery. I proceeded to light a smoke and wait a few minuites for the ecu to clear . . .

As Im standing there I realize WTF why is my radio still on, blasting. Wow theres a lot of electricity left in the lines . . . I spent 10 minuites trying to figure out why the radio was still on. I was thinking how high was I when I wired up the deck, what did I wire it to. Finally enough was enough I grabbed my red top, gave it a wiggle and the radio went off. I took the positive cable off and pulled the battery out. It turns out that the negative sidepost was rubbing on a tiny lip behind the battery and was creating another ground. LOL


**** Forgotten information added to the original post - Distributor issues*****

 

Woot woot! first picture, no engine light. That was short lived . . as soon as I hit 4000 rom the code came on for knock sensor.

My CKF bypass worked MINT!!!! (I mistook red w/blue stripe for the blue w/ red stripe.

Second picture. How I did the Dizzy. I checked the timing with a light and that's bang on.

third picture. P07 head stamping.

I hooked up a VTEC switch . .. thought on those big hills I could switch it on and BAM . . but unfortunately I get way less power . . .seems my P2P has learned to run the p07 in fuel efficient mode . . but has nothing for me in Vtec. .

ANYONE post some pictures of a secondary fuel system they have installed??????

seems that with no engine codes I can pass emissions . . . . even with my OBD 1 motor . . .