Ok

So this car is a PITA as of late, we just replaced the transmission and things were going great, in the middle of bleeding the brakes again, this distinct popping / ticking noise could be heard, its in time with the engine, just ticktickticktick...

It can be heard the moment the car starts up, to the moment the car shuts down, it can be heard best from under the car near the exhaust manifold / oil pan.

There are no CELs currently either (Will test CEL light to make sure it works soon)

Vidya link ->

 

Can't help you here, but perhaps some comic relief is in order - this is the first thing that popped into my head when I read your title...

 

Let the engine cool down some, ticking doesn't immediately start when it's cool oddly enough.

Doing a compression test soon...

and I've not seen that video in awhile, comic relief is appreciated

 

sounds like something is loose connecting the trans to engine, and hitting the trans splash shield.....or you killed a bearing

seems more like the first cuz you just replaced the trans

 

Get a cheap engine stethoscope from Harbor Freight Tools. Raise front end on stands. With engine idling, precisely pinpoint the noise.

 

That was a thought I had, but with the engine cooling down and the noise going away, I nixed that train of thought.

 

Tomorrow; HF is closed for the night currently.

We did a compression test while we had it out, 170-180 on all four cylinders.
Forgot to pull ECU fuse before we started it, cyl 1 spark plug was removed and the engine started right up WITHOUT the ticking noise oddly enough.

Went ahead and finished our oil change and brake bleeding while we were at it; turns out the owner had a shop change the oil last and they ... over filled it by about a quart I think, we checked the dipstick before we started and it was a good 1/2in above the top dot on the dip...

 

good point, i didnt even realize that when i was reading before


did you do the test after you let out some oil?

 

Are the plug wires installed in the correct firing order on the cap?

Do all 4 plugs have bright white spark?

 

Yea, continued clicking after oil change, as expected.

All plug wires are, will verify again tomorrow, gapping has been checked twice and adjusted minimally.

Spark color will be identified tomorrow after getting a stethoscope

 

Sounds like you accidentally narrowed it to cyl. #1.
I was going to ask if that dented up oil pan was blocking your oil pickup and affecting oil pressure, but perhaps you just have some bad piston slap or a marginal bearing on cyl. #1.

 

Started the monster up, no ticking after about 15 minutes of poking around.

Began testing spark colors for each wire, all orange.

Looking for voltmeter now to test coil using the guide in the FAQ (Thanks Ron!)

 

Primary coil 1.1
Secondary coil 16.13k

Is that primary coil ohm off enough to generate a orange spark or no?

Keep in mind, I was using brand new cap, rotor button and wires for the test along with brand new NGK plus.

 

Had AZ test the ICM, tested fine, tested the coil with three different meters, anywhere from .9 to 1.1.

Cleaned ALL the grounds with ample amounts of PB blaster, bristle brushes and a paddle wheel attached to an angle grinder.
Still ... yellowish spark.

Pulled the inspection plate off, re-torqued the torque converter bolts as well one by one just to confirm (at recommendation of AZ duder).
Let the car idle for an hour while doing other things, eating dinner and shooting the sheet.

Took it for a 2mi test drive.
Tickings not returned...

 

Oddly enough, it was bolts rubbing up against my inspection plate...

I don't necessarily understand what changed, but it's been resolved by removing the plate and resurfacing the top of the bolts with an angle grinder, less than a mm was shaved off of each.
It was that, or no inspection plate, or all new bolts.

No more noise.

 

Awesome. Is it an auto trans?

 

Yes it is.

 

Awesome that you got it fixed

 

So the torque plate bolts were hitting the inspection cover? Are they original bolts? Original torque converter? Is it possible to install the torque plate inverted (I wouldn't think so..)?

 

Yes yes and no
Trust me, I was confused as all hades as well.
The plate was never removed, the torque converter was though, torqued to spec as well (105 in/lbs)