Remove Oil pan w/o dropping exhaust?
Hey guys,
1997 Civic HX, 188k. Still pulling 40+ MPG
My oil pan gasket has been leaking for some time and I've largely ignored it, just topped off the oil every now and then (oil leaks on long drives where the oil remains hot and thin for an extended period and can bead out). Have a free week at the end of August and figured I should do it then.
The problem is I've had the exhaust repaired there with a straight pipe from muffler man (car came with a rotting exhaust, so I've had multiple pieces cut out and replaced), so I can't drop the piece between the cat and the resonator like a stock exhaust.
Has anyone gotten the oil pan out w/o dropping the exhaust? It looks like the pan should be able to clear it, but I don't want to start and then need to saw off the exhaust if it won't clear.
Thanks,
1997 Civic HX, 188k. Still pulling 40+ MPG

My oil pan gasket has been leaking for some time and I've largely ignored it, just topped off the oil every now and then (oil leaks on long drives where the oil remains hot and thin for an extended period and can bead out). Have a free week at the end of August and figured I should do it then.
The problem is I've had the exhaust repaired there with a straight pipe from muffler man (car came with a rotting exhaust, so I've had multiple pieces cut out and replaced), so I can't drop the piece between the cat and the resonator like a stock exhaust.
Has anyone gotten the oil pan out w/o dropping the exhaust? It looks like the pan should be able to clear it, but I don't want to start and then need to saw off the exhaust if it won't clear.
Thanks,
Even if you do, you won't be able to get it back on with the gasket in place - it'll wiggle it's way off where it belongs. Unbolt the manifold at the head, unhook a couple exhaust hangars, and do it that way. You'll only partially be dropping the exhaust.
Thanks, figured there was something I wasn't thinking about.
I'll work on seeing if I can unbolt the header. It's the stock and the heat shield is still on, so that might be another problem.
I'll work on seeing if I can unbolt the header. It's the stock and the heat shield is still on, so that might be another problem.
You won't be able to get the pan past the main caps & sump. Remember the sump sits at the bottom of the pan and is surrounded by baffles in very direction.
[QUOTE=94eg!;49011808]You won't be able to get the pan past the main caps & sump. Remember the sump sits at the bottom of the pan and is surrounded by baffles in very direction.
[QUOTE]
This ^ and if you plan on removing some really old exhaust bolts get some Kroil or PB Blaster (rust eating sprays) and start to work on them a few days before.
Have a plan in case you snap one (proper easy outs, drill bits, taps, heli coil etc) so you won't be stuck if the worst happens.
[QUOTE]
This ^ and if you plan on removing some really old exhaust bolts get some Kroil or PB Blaster (rust eating sprays) and start to work on them a few days before.
Have a plan in case you snap one (proper easy outs, drill bits, taps, heli coil etc) so you won't be stuck if the worst happens.
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Just replaced my pan this weekend on my 99. unbolt header from block/exhaust pipe, remove 2 transmission brackets (3 bolts each), remove the plate protecting the flywheel (2 bolts), remove the pan by unbolting in proper sequence and if the pan is stuck loosen the drain plug and pull down and up carefully and itll wiggle itself lose. I bought an aftermarket d16y7 pan for my y8 (cheaper) so i did not need the brackets. Honestly its all pretty simple.
On my 89 Rex, I broke one stud off the exhaust manifold trying to un-bolt it from the down-pipe. This was disappointing to say the least. To fix it I would have to remove the upper manifold from the head and risk breaking studs off the head (plus go from through the painful process of stud extraction). I feel I was lucky because when I re-installed the down-pipe under the pan, The two remaining studs & nuts gave enough seal to keep "all" of the noise & stink in.
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