I've been working on cleaning up my bay for about three months, just got it back together and now it wont start. will fire cylinder 4, the one the is slightly warm after trying to start the car. but other 3 cylinders are cold

car is a 97 civic ex with the D16

So far ive replaced the coil/was found bad
the Ignition control module/mine was bad
the plugs have been replaced
replaced timing belt/and have triple checked that the timing is correct on that
replaced fuel pump, and it does prime for 2 sec when key is turned on
the main relay was replaced but made no difference
I've checked that it is getting spark
I've checked ohms from ECU to injectors /checked good
I took the injectors out and cleaned them with a injector cleaning tool
checked injector wiring is all correct as for as location and color codes
fuel pressure gauge is showing about 43 psi on the rail
triple checked plug wires are in proper location

I still am not positive if the injectors are getting voltage i'm not really sure how to check that sense they only get voltage when cranking.

But i have been working on trying to get this thing to run now for like 4 days 15 hours a day, all im doing is research and trying different things. I just cant come up with anything else that would cause it to not fire on the other three cylinders. Anyone have any ideas for me, something to try.

 

Pulse test the injectors to confirm. also i'd recommend a compression test in this case.

 

ok ill do the test light first thing tomorrow, Auto parts place just closed so...
#4 180 psi
#3 170 psi
#2 175 psi
#1 175 psi
So compression is pretty stellar
ive got a feeling the injectors wont be operating like they should, plugs dont really smell like fuel when i pulled them for the compression test so, what would be my next step?
#4 has obviously been firing and the other three still look brand new

 

Check your grounds from the valve cover to the frame, transmission to frame, and thermostat housing.

 

If the injectors aren't getting signal trace it back to the ecu get a test light also. look up an obd2a ECU pinout sheet and test the wires for the injectors if needed

 

No ground from valve cover but brand new grounds from frame to alt, frame to trans, frame to starter bracket, and the thermostat housing grounds ohm good.

and for the injectors the yel/blk wire traced back to ECU all good numbers, i need to do the same to the other wires to all four injectors.

Also i forgot to mention my CEL light never comes on, shouldn't it come on for a few seconds then turn off? I'm gonna have to pull the cluster and make sure the bulb is there and replace if necessary

 

Your method of testing cylinders isn't very accurate if you're only using heat as a way to determine it firing.

Are all cylinders getting spark?

Go rent a node tester from autozone, this will tell you if your injectors are pulsing.

 

what do you mean by all good number ? are they all(injectors 1-4) getting signal at the ECU ? are they getting 12v at the injectors them self's. make sure the CEL bulb is in. also does the car even run, i'm guessing not

 

I wired up a main relay kill switch, and when it is switched off the CEL will not come on when turning the key to on. Is it a known good Main Relay?

 

No the car doesn't run, and when i say checked good i just ohm'd the common wires back to the ECU plug so i know the wires aren't broken.(yellow/black)
All plugs are getting spark
well i bought a brand new relay and installed it so i hope its good.

just got the noid lite set. really weird stuff here with that, the only time i got light was with cylinder #4 but not when i expected it. it only lights up when the key has been turned to position 3 and back to two then it lights up, but if i got strait to position 3 and crank the motor it wont ever light up. and as for cylinders #1,2,3 i never got anything from them.
What do i do now, bad ECU?

Can any one tell me if i should be able to ohm the four colored wires from the ecu plug up to the injectors? cause im getting nothing at at the known working injector (yellow wire), and the other three (brown,blue,red) the ones that aren't working, don't get anything for resistance either.

 

That is really weird. If you can borrow an ecu I would try that. Does the nous stay lit constant when it lights up? If you determine its the ecu pm me I have a spare Layin round ill sell ya cheap.

 

unfortunately i don't know anyone with a civic, especially one they would be willing to jeopardize their own ECU for my troubleshooting.

Injector #4 13.4 volts (Same as battery output)
Injector #3 0.4
Injector #2 0.4
Injector #1 0.4

So what gives? Im stumped here, strait out of the ECU the numbers are the same so why cant i ohm the wires from the injector plugs to the ECU? i guess it dosent matter if the numbers are the same it would seem my ECU is bad.

 

If my ECU numbers are 37820-P2P-A32 what other ECU's could i get away with trying?

 

well i got a hold of another ECU and nothing changed, still has voltage only at injector #4, the other three are dead. what do i do now?

 

The Yel/Blk wires in the four injector connectors converge/splice at the C130 junction connector and then run as a single Yel/Blk wire to connector C101 and then to the main relay connector. This Yel/Blk injector wire does NOT run to the ECU.

The injector Brn, Red, Blu, and Yel wires run the ECU.

 

So the fact that i have a reading from the injectors to the ECU is probably a bad thing.
And if i follow the yel/blk wire in the wiring diagram through different junctions it does get to the ecu and pin IGP2 (power Source)

should i be able to ohm the Brn, Red, Blu, and Yel wires from the injectors to the ECU then?

 

Disconnect all injector clips. With the key in ON(II), the Yel/Blk wire terminal in each clip should read battery voltage to body ground. None of the other clip wires should read any voltage.

So is the Yel/Blk wire in clip 4 the only terminal where you read battery voltage?

What diagram shows this^?

Yes

 

just checked all the yel/blk wires they do all have battery voltage now. with the key in the on position. but #4 is doing some weird stuff, with the test light on it, the light stays on after the key is turned off and removed.

haynes manual is what im following the wiring in, shows yel/blk also connects to IACV, and like you said the main relay.

and i should be able to get a reading from the Brn, Red, Blu, and Yel wires but i get nothing at them from one end to the other.

 

This is obviously a problem. The Yel/Blk wire should have NO voltage with the key off.

Correct^. And sorry, I made an error earlier. The Yel/Blk wire does also supply voltage to the ECU at pins A11 and A24. My mistake.

As I said earlier, you should read NO VOLTAGE at these^ 4 wires with the clips unplugged and the key in ON(II).

 

Ok so what should i do now, im at a loss here.

And for the Brn, Red, Blu, and Yel wires i understand they should NOT read voltage but if i pull the plug from the ECU and the plug at the injector should i be able to read resistance through that length of wire because i get nothing, as in seems like there is no wire being tested. if that all makes sense. this stuff is a bit hard to explain and be clear on

 

If the Yel/Blk wire in injector clip #4 ALONE has voltage with the key OFF, then it is separated from the Yel/Blk wires in the other 3 clips. This should not be. All 4 of the injector power wires should ultimately converge into a single wire and therefore be connected to one another. Trace where the Yel/Blk wire in injector clip #4 goes. It obviously runs to a different location than the other 3 wires.

Each of these^ injector ground wires runs to a different ECU pin. You should measure continuity between the injector clip and proper ECU pin for each wire.

 

Each of these^ injector ground wires runs to a different ECU pin. You should measure continuity between the injector clip and proper ECU pin for each wire.[/QUOTE]

This is exactly what ive done several times now with no luck, they just read open.

 

Then the 4 injector ground wires are broken somewhere between the clips and ECU. Locate breaks and repair or run new wires.

 

just surprising that all four could be broken.

 

Be surprised if you want, but that's what your test results say.