obd0-obd1 problems/no start
So here's the deal. Im going to try to make it short and to the point. I have dpfi that I converted to mpfi and use the obd0-obd1 conv. harness for the mpfi... I've done everything and wired it all up and now, when i turn the key on the tach jumps to about 3g's and stays, the cel doesnt turn off, no spark, no fuel pump kick on, not even 2 sec prime. I'm lost... i need ideas of what to try next. any HELP is appreciated.
Recheck the wiring and where did you get the ecu jumper from? I personally jag bad experiences with generic ebay jumpers. So I make my own brand new ones
I got it from a buddy and he doesn't know where it's from, what part of the wiring should I check? I've gone over the dizzy wiring like a billion times! Lol I don't know what would cause all these problems either!
something is miss wired. take the obd1 crap off and see if it will run with just mpfi obdo first then proceed on to the next step but sounds like to me the wiring on the distributor is wrong
Trending Topics
I've check the Ecu pinouts and ohm'd each dizzy wire like 6 times and it comes out the same and correct each time. I can't just take the obd1 stuff off and switch over to obd0 because it was dpfi in the first place
so i went down to my local performance shop and they tech told me it was probably the wiring between the main relay and ecu either a ground or power. So I'm gona try and do some tests on it. sound about right?
Disconnect the distributor completely. Just unplug it.
If your tach still jumps and CEL stays on you can rule out every distributor problem.
I don't think it's distributor anyway.
CEL won't stay solid when you have a distributor prob.
COMMON problem with solid CEL is that the grounds at the thermostat housing are in bad condition, loose, not hooked up at all.
The main relay is also grounded up there so it makes sense that the fuel pump doesn't prime.
Did your jumper harness have a few wires that aren't connected?
I have seen that problem here where people get the eBay harness and the grounds are not connected to the pins at the ECU. they are just left dangling... like you have to wire them yourself.
If your tach still jumps and CEL stays on you can rule out every distributor problem.
I don't think it's distributor anyway.
CEL won't stay solid when you have a distributor prob.
COMMON problem with solid CEL is that the grounds at the thermostat housing are in bad condition, loose, not hooked up at all.
The main relay is also grounded up there so it makes sense that the fuel pump doesn't prime.
Did your jumper harness have a few wires that aren't connected?
I have seen that problem here where people get the eBay harness and the grounds are not connected to the pins at the ECU. they are just left dangling... like you have to wire them yourself.
I have checked ALL grounds cleaned them and everything, checked all fuses with meter, there are some wires left undon in the harness like the egr and iab's but there are some wires in the jumper that are pinned to the Ecu the. To the other side that plugs into the stock harness side but they have wires spliced into them and those wires are part of the "secondary harness" for like vtec and the o2 sensor and all that.. I did hook up connector a and d and when I left out conn b the cel would go off.. Idk if that means anything
Yes I used the multimeter to test every fuse they are all good but I can try again. I just bought a new main relay and when I turn the key on it will click once but nothing else
Use your multimeter to check whether the main relay connector receives battery voltage from all three of the fuses (key off, position II, position III) I mentioned earlier.
I will do that. The thing I don't get is I was driving my car just fine forever untill I put this swap in and now there's a wiring issue? That's what blows my mind!
Just a side note I did cut the a1,3, and 5 wires from the stock harness that leads into the obd0 part of the jumper that wouldn't affect anything would it? Because I just took the a1,2,3 and 5 from the jumper and ran the injectors straight to them.
it was stock single dpfi nothing done i did everything all at the same time. The dpfi-mpfi then to obd1 the only thing I did diff was just run the fuel injector wires straight off the jumper to the injectors
Why did you cut those wires? Did you buy a dpfi to obd1 jumper or the standard ebay jumper? I ask because ebsy jumpers require that you're cat already be converted to mpfi for them to work. And if you did it right them those wires are still being used.
A1 inj 1
A3 inj 2
A5 inj 3
A1 inj 1
A3 inj 2
A5 inj 3
It's a mpfi-obd1 I did the dpfi-mpfi swap then used the jumper for the mpfi-obd1 but when I did the dpfi-mpfi swap I just didn't use the dpfi wires for the new injectors I just cut A1,A2,A3, and A5 from the jumper and ran new wires to the injectors bypassing them from running through the engine harness. So they are ram straight from the Ecu to the injectors and all the second wires from the injectors I put individual resistors then connected them all together and ran one single wire back to the Ecu


