What should I do?

 

Basemap, break-in clutch and engine on road.. Then dyno. Otherwise you'll just ruin the clutch and there is nothing wrong with break-in on the road

 

What needs to be broken in on the engine ? The rings need to be seated properly Nd if you don't know how to do so they won't seat and the motor won't be worth a damn. The whole street drivi g 1000 2000 5000 miles in BS. Use a quality break in oil and seat the rings on the dyno. Nothing bad will happen to the clutch on the dyno because your not going to be banging through the gears it goes into gear and a pull is made. Once it's broken in and then tuned on the dyno your set. Now is when you drive it easy and break in the clutch for 500 miles like the manufacture suggests.

 

For once, I completely disagree. Specifically because he's got a new clutch to break in at the same time. Now, I've utilized plenty of carbon kevlar and special plate clutches that people mistakenly believe that they can be broken in on the dyno. Unfortunately that is not true. The best way for even those clutches to be broken in is on the street for 450 - 500 miles. There's no rush, things will wear themselves naturally in a relaxed manner.

As for the 1000 mile break-in, to each his own. There are several methods of engine break-in and each one has their particular merits; meaning one is no more "BS" than the other as long as the rings are seated properly. Some are fast break-in methods, others are a more traditional slower break-in with a good basemap. Because of the OP's clutch break-in, I highly recommend the traditional break-in method, and go to the dyno once and right.

I understand I'm coming from an older school of thought, as I've always done the 700 mile-1000 mile break-in; but I'm also getting a little "long in the tooth". This means that I don't rush, and still use this longer method. But considering that I've had the SAME GE sleeved block for over 10 years, countless road race events on the same set of bearings (both crank/rod) and piston rings, and never had a drop of oil from it. (The other engine is going on 9 years from the same method), if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

When you have multiple break-ins (Brakes/clutch, & engine), you can kill multiple birds with one "patient" stone.

 

I can agree to that Mac, we have our own opinions and there are multiple ways of break in procedure. I just dont care for a basemap break in. Generally there far off and people dont know how to stay out of the throttle with a basemap, its horry story after horror story of blown engines and after 20-30 posts the op will admit he was boosting on a basemap. IF this OP can keep his foot out of it and do a proper run in on the rings then the LONG method will work.

 

I was going to ask about this as well. Ive got a CNC WERX, CSS typer engine, Just assembled with all brand new internals. One person told me the basemap and allow everything to set and seat where it will and then dyno. I believe Ill just take the traditional route as well.

 

I broke my engine in on the dyno with a brand new clutch. 4500 miles later no slipping and motor doesn't burn or leak and oil.

 

you don't have to break you clutch in on the road.

you can break Rings in in 100 miles, no need for 1000. if they are gonna seat they are gonna seat.

if they aren't, you should of honed those walls, or installed em correctly.

 

It depends upon the clutch and dyno, Gentleman. Those mainly on hub dynos if not careful WILL GLAZE street-purpose clutches like no tomorrow. Breaking in Puck clutches or clutches with a full drag race purpose do not need as much care. There is no ABSOLUTE with everything, but as a matter of precaution, use your head, make sure the map is correct and break it in on the street where it can be done evenly and correctly.

For those that decided to do it on the dyno, you either had a PURPOSE Clutch (such as a twin disc or at least one with a puck) for drag racing. Street/strip people need to understand the differences.

I didn't fall off a turnip truck on breaking in clutches.

 

I'd rather prematurely wear my clutch than blow an engine or ruin the rings driving around on a basemap.

Put it on the dyno and break it in on the dyno. Basemaps have a tendency to be really heavy on fuel and really light on timing, creating one of the worst possible combinations for a good break in. Hot flooded cylinders.

 

who even uses hub dyno's anymore..

 

Correct. But as Turbo-LS has also experienced, if the basemap is OFF, and the person is not disciplined enough to understand that, there can be some grave repercussions. So one must make sure that the basemap is from a reliable source before proceeding.

 

you have to understand only stupid people smash on their cars on a basemap of anything.

so if OP is dumb enough to do so, no pity.

 

 

Luckily , I work part timeish at a friends shop who is an experience tuner. I will have him set mine up with basically a street tune, except it will be no tuning of WOT, or any boost levels, Just enough to put some mileage on the swap, with out flooding rings or anything of that nature. Most people now a days, will dump fuel into a map and call it a basemap haa.

 

lol wow guys, thanks for all the response. There is one detail that maybe I should have mentioned in the OP, and I would have if I knew people would assume it. I apologize for the confusion... There have been ZERO internal modifications. No rings to break in, nothing. The ONLY thing i'm worried about is the CLUTCH.

Does that make any difference in your opinions??\

Thanks again

 

If the engine has a good tune the break in the clutch the way your supposed to and then take it to the dyno.

 

what do you mean if I have a good tune? thats what I am saying. When I parked the car it was totally stock. I jacked it up, installed a stage 2 clutch, and a turbo system, other accessories, and exhaust. Literally the next time I crank it, it will have went from a stock SE to a boosted SE with a few upgrades running on whatever the Hondata p06 is programmed with... Im guessing not a good tune. The problem isnt 500 miles to break it in, its city miles meaning stop and go... it would take me over a year to put 500 miles on that car in city. I really dont know what to do here.

 

The rings dont even need 100 miles. You seat the rings within the couple of miles or within a little bit of time varrying load and rpm on and off throttle. Can be done on or off the dyno but must be done properly is all.

 

there are no rings to seat lol

 

oh well if the motor doesnt need break in on the rings then just drive it around easy put some city miles on it and hit the dyno. Again they arent going to be slamming through the gears which is where you will have the most trouble. It goes into gear and then a pull is made and if its not on a hub dyno i don't see the big deal

 

no i mean there has been no motor work done at all...

Ive never dyno'd before... they dont go thru the gears?

 

No you dont bang gears on the dyno they get it up to speed and get into 4th gear and make pulls

 

thats cool, I never knew that.. So when you get your HP readings and torque... its in 4th gear? Would it be higher if you dyno'd in another gear?. Ive dyno'd bikes before(part of my schooling), but we went thru the gears, and did a final drive roll on. not so exp'd when it comes to cars

 

It doesnt matter what gear you do it in just need traction. Some cars can do it in 3rd gear because its not as harsh on the transmission because it revs through the gear quicker and there is less load. I generally do 3rd gear pulls on lower boost levels and then do 4thi gear pulls once start cranking the boost up because you'll just spin the tires in 3rd.