distributor question
that metal piece on the inside of the rotor that goes on the shaft was there. the hole where the allen screw is was worn, it wasnt tight at all. so today i will be replacing the cap and rotor. thanks
ok new rotor new cap ( i didnt put that gray guard thingy that sits behind the rotor that you see in the vid ). test drove it and was running fine until it got to normal operating temp. started chugging and backfiring while accelerating. things i have done to this car cleaned iacv put new gasket on it, new valve cover gasket set. new plugs, the old plugs looked fine but changed them anyway. tested plug wires all seems good. checked for vacuum leak with carb cleaner, nothing there. there isnt an fitv to check. i bled the coolant. no c.e.l. to help me figure it out. i could really use a winning lottery ticket about now.
ok issue solved it was a bad spark wire coming off the msd blaster 2 coil going to the disrtutor. i think maybe replacing the cap and rotor really gave it the juice to really fry it. after cleaning the iacv and replacing the gasket, replacing valve cover gasket and grommets, spraying carb cleaner for vac leaks, bleeding the coolant, replacing underhood fuse box (which did get rid of the code 20), replacing plugs, testing the spark wires (i guess i forgot to check the coil wire which was bad), adjusting the idle screw, replacing the oil pressure sensor and checking countless other sensors, it was a damn spark wire. thanks for all the help.
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