Looking for some guidance from those that have worked on calipers before.

While getting the timing belt changed on my 99 Accord EX I was told both rear calipers need to be replace because the pads on the one side were wearing quicker than the other (2 vs 4 left). They wanted $500 to replace both calipers plus pads.

I'm pretty handy and would like to do this myself having done a fair amount of other repairs before. I have read several of the posts out there where some replace but others rebuild. So I figured I would ask some questions for those that have more experience than I.

Couple of additional datapoints. I took both rear heels off and when looking at the outside pads, they both look about the same thickness to me. One does not look to have worn more than the other. I cant see the inside pad. I also took the emergency brake off to see how well the wheel spins. The left one will spin but the brake is rubbing some. If I spin hard, it will stop when I let go. The right one spins easier. When I spin it hard it will keep spinning for a little while after I let go.

So here are my questions
1. Is the fact that one wheel spins easier than the other significant?
2. Do I really need new calipers? I'm tempted to replace the pads and just watch them.
3. The mechanic told me that only one was bad but you have to replace both. Is that true or do I really only have to replace one.
4. I have seen that new calipers run ~$130. Should I get new or would rebuilt ones be ok. If rebuilt, where do you recommend I buy them?

Thanks for the help

 

I am having the same problem with my front pads. I have a lot of wear on pass side pair and like non on the other. I would like to know if I should rebuild mine as well. The rotors are wearing abnormally as well.. There is no noticeable braking problems, no pulling to the side or anything, maybe the problem resolved itself... Either way I need new pads and I have these Hawk HPS that I think i'll throw on there. I'm not going to change the rotors out unless they're out of spec. Can I visually inspect the calipers to see if they're malfunctioning?

 

Whenever you replace suspension or brake components do them as an axle set. You should always replace things in this manner, the proper way.

I would loosen up the bleeder screws and press the pedal and note how much fluid comes out. If you can measure it that would be perfect.
Note the difference if it's different I would swap the calipers to the opposite side (only for testing) and see if the fluid difference changes with the calipers or stays constant.
If it moves with the caliper swap, replace the calipers. If it's constant, inspect and replace the flexible line moving less fluid. Though I would suggest replacing both anyways for good measure.

 

My pass side outer pad is significantly worn. This guide says this bout it,

"Wear like this is caused by the outer pad continuing to ride on the rotor after the caliper releases. Seizing guide pins, bushings and slides are usually at the heart of the problem. Correcting this kind of wear is relatively simple. Service or replace the guide pins, bushings, or the entire caliper, and replace the brake pads. - See more at: http://www.knowyourparts.com/product....gzDee9by.dpuf

 

If it were me I would clean the calipers with brake cleaner, make sure the pins are properly lubricated, nothing is leaking, and the caliper slides freely in the bracket, and install a new set of pads.

 

The brake system is diagonally split, so if the rears/fronts left to right are not wearing equally it could be that there is a problem with the hydraulic side of the system. Check the front calipers and hoses for leaks/defects as well as the rears.
Verify if it is a bearing issue or a caliper adjustment issue.
When the bearings on the rear go bad they will spin very freely.
Make sure both levers contact the pins on the caliper when the hand brake is all the way down, if not the calipers cannot self adjust. If one caliper is tighter/looser than the other verify that the cables are both pulling and releasing equally.
Depends on if the calipers are not self adjusting. Then the self adjust maybe seized. Or the guide pins need lubrication or replacement if excessively worn.
Meh, kind of depends. No real point in replacing a good caliper if only one is toasted. But a rebuilt caliper will also have new components, so it may work/slide better than an existing unit.
Rebuilt is fine. You can usually rebuild them yourself, the only time you may need to have someone else do it is if the self adjuster inside the piston has failed or seized. But most of these are simply a one way ball bearing roller clutch like in this MR2 unit http://www.mr2turbo.info/pics/rearcaliper.html

 

Do you think you can give me the part number for the wagon caliper rebuild kit? Rock auto doesn't seem to have them for the front rotors of the wagon, only for the rear. Should I look for maybe a v6 or a 5th gen, does that have the same size calipers?


Edit:

Nevermind, I found the right part from RockAuto, a V6 part.

I am going to be using this guide,

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?p=3062559