So I spent all day replacing this piece of **** clutch I had bought less than a month ago that started slipping. Replaced rear main seal, oil pan gasket & clutch. Took about 10 hours with the siezed bolts & all. Took it for a test drive, the ************ is still slipping. This is an Exedy clutch I replaced it with too. The **** is still slipping too. At this point I'm not sure what to do. I'm just pissed & tired of dealing with all this ******* bullshit.

 

I said it on the first clutch, I'll say it again on the second clutch.

You aren't breaking it in correctly. You can't just bolt in a clutch and go to town on it.

 

Seriously, if you expect to get help, you need to provide technical details - car, engine, transmission, mods, and other relevant information, such as the symptoms related to the slipping.

 

How are you supposed to break it in?

 

Nice and easy city driving for 500 miles.

 

Stupidly easy. Driving like your grand mother with a wooden peg for a leg. NEVER rev past 3000, foot on, foot off, no feathering or sliding the clutch.

Note, that's 500 "standard" miles. If you do mostly highway driving, more like 1000. What's always worked well for me is one full tank of city driving during rush hour.

 

man, I'm telling you I break it in fine. I don't "go to town" on it. I'll barely surpass 1/4 throttle, & the **** will start slipping. This leads me to a failing slave/master, or fluid contamination. I've literally tried everything I can. I replaced all I could while I was down there, I changed the oil, tranny fluid with Genuine Honda MTF, I just don't know what to do. It's a 93 CX Hatch with a swapped Z6.

 

Did you replace the pressure plate with the clutch? Did you get the contact surfaces on the pressure plate and flywheel resurfaced? You probably heat glazed with the last clutch you fried, and because you didn't resurface, that heat glazing is now transferred to the new clutch.

 

Stock CX transmission?

Are you replacing or resurfacing the flywheel?

Tell us how you install the clutch - details.


Describe the slipping.

 

Brand new clutch kit, throwout, pilot, pressure plate, new flywheel, all exedy. Remove & drop tranny, unbolt everything, make sure to clean the mating surfaces of pressure plate, flywheel, clutch disk with a little of brake parts cleaner, clean it real nice & dry with some shop towels & make sure everything is really clean. Put everything on, torque to exact specs, align clutch with shaft, bolt tranny back, go for a ride. The way I can best describe the slipping is basically common sense you know. If you're educated about the way a MT works, you can hear the sound of it start to slip & you can just tell. The way I first found out was I took it real easy on the drive home, then just to make sure everything was back in working order, I took it a little past half throttle in 3rd (LX 5th tranny) at about 40MPH, & I could hear it slip a little, i took it a little farther on the throttle & it climbed RPM's fast as **** & the clutch burning smell hit me, & so did the depression of wasting money & time trying to fix a problem that still has yet to be solved.

 

you dont spray brake cleaner on the disk itself

 

You can absolutely do that most of the time without a problem. I've been known to install a clutch, back out of the garage, go down the driveway and start during burnouts as soon as I hit the road.

It wont help anything since there shouldn't be any oil on the disc to start with, but it wont hurt anything either.

At this point I'd be looking into crank walk, clutch pedal freeplay out of adjustment or a bad input shaft seal on transmission.

Was the last clutch disc contaminated with oil/transmission fluid? Pics of the old clutch?

It's not a hydraulic issue, the hydraulics only release the clutch, if somethings bad there you'll have disengagement problems not slipping issues.

 

This^ is where I'd place my bet.

 

CAN SOMEBODY PLEASE EXPLAIN TO ME WHAT THIS HEAT GLAZING IS? I GOT A SHOP TO QUOTE ME AT 260 TO 300 DOLLARS FOR A FULL CLUTCH REPLACEMENT (I'M SUPPLYING THE PARTS). THEY SAID IF THE FLYWHEEL IS BLUE FROM HEAT THEN THEY WILL HAVE TO REMACHINE IT FOR AN EXTRA 60 BUCKS. WHAT DOES THAT MEAN, AND IF IT TURNS OUT THAT THEY DO HAVE TO DO THAT, HOW CAN I AVOID HEAT GLAZING MY FLYWHEEL IN THE FUTURE? I DON'T RIDE THE CLUTCH, BUT AS OF NOW I ONLY HAVE PUT 3K MILES ON THE CLUTCH, AND DON'T KNOW ABOUT THE PREVIOUS OWNERS... THANKS

 

No need for all CAPS and BOLD.

Did you break in the clutch the proper way? You can't just install a new clutch and do a burnout immediately after install.

 

Google must be down again.
https://www.google.com/search?q=clut...hrome&ie=UTF-8

 

Glazing and heatspots, cracking, etc happens when you rev the engine up and then let the clutch out partway letting it slip. Holding a car on a hill using the clutch will do this as well.

 

I have no idea how to adjust "clutch pedal freeplay" how would I begin doing that? I'll upload a pic of the new clutch, & old clutch side by side in a second, hold on.

 

New Exedy on right, "old" F1 Racing on left. When I pulled the old clutch, it looked brand spanking new..

 

The measurements are to the floorboard, not to the carpet. I hope this solves your mystery.

 

Im willing to bet its either the pedal adjustment or your input shaft seal is leaking like 94EG8 said.

 

How would a input shaft seal affect a clutch tho? A "bad" one anyway?

 

Lets say I have pop out problems in 2nd/3rd gear, I've been reading that a bad ISB could be the cause of that. Would that cause slipping?

 

An input shaft bearing causing gear specific pop outs? Whoever said that, you should stop listening to. Gear specific pop outs are caused by problems with that gear cluster, or the related gear selector arm in the transmission.

And no, none of that would cause slipping.

 

The csb will cause popouts.