I have searched around and it seems the forums say it should be ok, but I like to ask for confirmation from anyone who has done this? I am not actually buying an OEM Si LCA, but a Mook RK640395 and RK640394 control arm that is one piece stamped steel , I dont need to put in a sway bar.

Car is a DX 97

 

if you don't want to run a swaybar then why change them ? you will also need em1 shock fork's

 

can you clarify? I look up the part number for the shock forks in majestic and they look the same?

The reason I am changing is simply because I need new bushings, and I prefer to just install new control arms on my 16 year old car. And interestingly the stamped one piece LCA style is significantly cheaper than the forge steel two piece.

 

Ok so this thread:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/diffrences-96-00-civic-front-lower-control-arms-2037699/

seems to say that the stamped steel one piece style LCA will work on DX, nothing mentioned about shock forks difference between EM and EK, I look at the shock fork part numbers on Majestic and in the picture it looks the same, but I just want to confirm if there are any difference between the forks and will I have trouble reinstalling my shocks to the new LCA?

Sorry I maybe paranoid but I have just about replaced all my ball joints in the front (tie rod inner outer,UCA and lower ball joint , all OEM) ; and all done DIY without a press using the Ball joint tools from O'reilly rentals and I know what a pain it can be to get stuff lined up so you can reinstall the bolt!

And if the part doesnt fit then I have to go to all the trouble of returning stuff and reinstalling old part all while doing this outside in a public parking lot!

So I hope the many experienced eyes he in HT can help me out. thanks.

 

I have Si control arms in my DX..
The shock forks ARE different!! They are longer and wider than the others. Regular shock forks will not fit.



If you aren't going to run a Si sway bar don't bother switching the LCA's unless you really want them.

just replace the bushings.

 

99-00 Si
51811-S04-000
51821-S04-000

96-00 DX/LX/CX/EX/HX/GX
51811-S01-000
51821-S01-000

 

thank you! I will take note...replacing bushing is better but I cant get OEM part numbers for the bushings that is specific to 96-00 civics, and aftermarkets bushings sold by Moog seems like they are for EG LCA, except for Hardrace that is :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HARDRACE-FRONT-LOWER-CONTROL-ARM-LCA-REPLACEMENT-BUSHING-96-00-HONDA-CIVIC-EK-/200856399858?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec3f96ff2&vxp=mtr
I can see only the ones sold by HARDRACE has the flange on the bushing that goes from the arm to the subframe, the ones sold by Moog for eg has no flange it seems:

http://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part...=#.UexeW43VCSo

At this point I think I will just get forged style Moog control arms:

http://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part...=#.Uexeho3VCSo

Reason being that two arms with bushings preinstalled plus the rear compliance bushing =~$300

OTOH the hard race bushings would cost ~$100 and compliance bushing another $40, AND i have to install the bushings without a press which is going to be a pain doing this outside in a parking lot.......

oh well the stamped one piece LCA seemed like a good idea (cheaper and lighter) and Rockauto shows it as compatible but I guess not!

 

yes thanks I saw that already if you compare the diagram they look the same but as stated already they are different in real life.

Does anyone have the OEM part numbers for 96-00 EK LCA bushings if there even exist?

 

What about something like this? I know a lot of the CRV guys use the ones for the 97-01

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Lower-...a9bc20&vxp=mtr

 

yeah I saw that too from Hardrace, thing is do you just unbolt the two bolts hold the two LCA pieces together or is there something you have to press out? in the ebay picture you can see they include some metal sleeve I am not sure what thats for? And I would still nee compliance bushings

 

You'd be looking at ~$130 for just the bushings. Have you considered just taking the arms to a machine shop and having them press out/press in?

What about something like this?
http://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewP...idcategory=386

Hell, if you're up to the task you could put poly bushings in the front end. Don't need a press but a vice helps. A lot more maintenance required but they tighten up the front end very well and are pretty cheap.


I have them in my car.

Front control arms, upper and lower including compliance bushings.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...prod=16%2E3114

 

yeah, hardrace bushings =$100 for and then another $45 for the OEM compliance bushing, and then I have to bring it to a shop (any good one that press bushings in Irvine,CA?) without a car (which means getting a friend to take me there) plus their labor fees....I say $200 all in....

vs just brand new Moog arms for $300 (plus I get guaranteed arms that are not bent which is important in a 17 year old car..).

How do hardrace bushings compare to OEM ones comfort and quality wise?

 

i run SiR LCAs in the front on my LX sedan. I did the swaybar upgrade. Forks are wider so you need the fork and the lower fork bolt as well, the original LX/DX/CX one isn't long enough.

 

My buddy got his bushings press out/in for about $20 a bushing. Of course that's Washington, not cali.

The hardrace bushings are a bit stiffer than OEM however it wont really affect the cars ride quality. Most of the ride quality comes from the rear of the car anyways. Don't be shocked if the front end feels stiffer though.


Are you have alignment issues now? If not I wouldn't worry about the arms being bent.

I've seen a few civics take 20+ MPH hits to curbs and not bend the LCA's.

 

caster is a little off, left is 2.6* and right is 1.8*, just within spec for the left but cross caster is 0.8, on the freeway it tracks mostly straight but I sense a slight drift to the right if I let go of the wheel for longer than 5-6 s, depends on the road too.

Otherwise all the other alignemnts are in spec (front camber is -0.2, rear -1.0, toe are all in spec just aligned)