Hi I'm 16 and on a budget but doesn't mean I'm willing to cut corners on parts or take the time to save up for it but anyway I have a d16z6 in my ej1 and its getting tired, so I have and extra low mile d16z6 head and I want to put it on a reliable bottom that will handle 10psi of boost around 225whp
So what bottom end would work the best and last the longest as low mileage and stock maby a y8/y7/y5/b7/zc/z6? I will be useing a mls head gasket and arp head studs ......also I'm doing it this way cause it's my dd and don't want to tear the motor out of it until I have something to put in.

 

LOL none. All D series have super tiny rods that fail under too much boost. Just do a mild build on the Z6 motor. A set of pistons and rods and hone the cylinders, ARP rod bolts and head studs and you are good for 300whp+.

 

10PSI doesn't mean **** unless we know what turbo is going on it. Usually people that talk about reliability and then talk about power in terms of PSI haven't done their due diligence in educating themselves about turbocharging their cars.

 

none of them will be reliable and safe.

If you are 16, Do not waste your money trying to turbo your car.

If it is your DD DON'T DO IT.

I'd say if your budget isn't at least 3000$, plus a BUILT bottom end, your car will be a ticking time bomb.

The stock pistons and rods are not made for boost, they will only last so long.
10psi of boost on what? because if it's 10psi of boost of a BW S300SX, you'd prolly be around 300+whp.

Bare minimum if you really want it to last :
forged pistons, forged rods. completely new rod bearings, mains, seals.
head gasket + arps.
A well suited sized turbo
adequate clutch
injectors, TUNEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
TUNE IS 100% WITHOUT A DOUBT REQUIRED NO IF ANS OR **** ABOUT IT.
intercooler + piping
Bov not required but people still "swear' by em.
oil lines, oil pan.
INTAKE! no filterless BULLSHIT.


all joking aside, I'm starting to agree with you now and stop defending these people, the "i wanna run 10psi" is really starting to get annoying.

 

Mm-hm.
And being 16 has nothing to do with anything. It doesn't absolve you of not searching and researching.

 

Z6

 

Absolutely wrong. The correct answer is neither as mentioned above.

 

You're 16... Either save all of that, or just work on interior / exterior / reliability.
Is there any CEL? Idle problem?? Any suspension/steering problems? Is everything aokay at the moment? I was once like you, aspiring to turbo my car when I was 17, but in the end NOT WORTH IT. I lacked the experience and information at the time and had no idea what I was getting myself into, luckily I cancelled all the plans.
For mild modifications, get a weighted shift **** ASSUMING your vehicle is manual.... a weighted shift ****, and even better a short throw/dual bend shifter will make everything much easier. Look into the PWJDM 530gram **** (idk if there's one meant for Honda's/Acura's that is heavier), and an Integra Dual Bend modification. For rear view mirrors, a broadview will help immensely, for interior lighting; especially the dome light, a 48-LED panel should work wonders if it can fit inside. Increase the comfort and functionality in your car, don't worry too much about power just yet.

 

Ok I asked a question about a bottomend not how to build one up with forged everything and grumblemarc I'd like if you never commented on another one of my posts I just don't like your ego. also guys don't judge me on what you think you know about my experience with cars my family's been in drag racing and fast cars with an excess of 500hp for 20yrs with superchargers turbochargers and nitrous I now my way around all of it it and if I need help I don't have a problem with asking a question and I'm not some punk ricer I'm looking for a little bit more go that's reliable and fairly cheap and for those who will say cheap and reliable won't work your wrong. ok so of all of the bs can I just get my question answered and the turbo will be a t3/t4 hybrid by cxracing

 

really? cause it's not evident from your first post.

 

So I'm really starting to wonder...what the **** is a t3/t4 turbo, since those are two completely different flange types.

 

Srry for the confusion

T28 Turbo:
- T25/T28 Flange to Manifold
- 5 Bolt Downpipe Flange Interface
- .42 A/R Compressor, .86 A/R Turbine
- 2.5" Inlet & 2" Outlet
- Computer Balanced Individually

 

Still not the point lol

 

where does T3/T4 fit into this.. at all. even the slightest. it isn't even T3 or T4 flanged!


I hate "t3/t4" turbos ARGGGGGGGGG

 

Read links in his signature or do whatever you want. You asked questions clearly your family has not been doing drag for 20 years or otherwise you would not be here or they have been blowing up motors for 20 years.

My advice learn humility and then read what others post.

 

This really is a joke this is the most unfriendly form ever I can't even get a simple answer

 

I laid it out for you man

 

If you want more power reliably just do a b series swap. Start with an ls then when you get tired of that then do a ls vtec it is the most reliable and least expensive answer to your question. I'm also in high school and if you plan on a turbo build prepare to work like 30hrs a week for like 2 years that's how I did it. You gotta pay to play there is no way around it

 

No stock d series bottom end will handle more than 225hp at most safely

And it doesn't matter what your family does, I grew up in a racing family as well but unless your family is funding this and has deep pockets it's a moot point

And your choice of an ebay turbo and the size you've chosen shows you don't know about quality parts or much of anything about turbo sizing

I suggest you read the FAQ top to bottom and inside out multiple times as well as search and research d series turbo setups. Hell there's a big sohc turbo thread in this forum

And a new guy coming in here acting your hot **** will get you nowhere with us more seasoned users. We don't spoon feed info here as it does nothing to help you grasp the subject matter. Anyone can post telling you anything and because you don't know the fundamentals you'll believe almost anything. .. like if I told you a d16 could spool a t6 gt45

 

Yes you have give very nice tips but I think he is doing great job at the age of 16.. I have never thought like this in my teen age

 

I'm not looking to make any more than 225whp I'd be happy with 200whp and I'm just asking which bottom end is the strongest out of the the d series line up and thanks for the ls/lsv info I'm also considering it

 

even at just 200whp, none of those bottom ends are good.

People blow up D-series engines even before 200whp just google it.

your engine just won't last.

D engines can throw rods even still in NA form. not a good combo to shove boost down it's neck.

 

Everyone loves to hate on the d series.

I installed a junkyard turbo set-up on a buddy's z6 and street tuned it my self, first boosted car I'd ever tuned, 10 psi on a tiny turbo, stock exhaust, stock fuel pump, DSM 450s. It was beat to **** every single day for 2 years until the turbo went out and he upgraded. D16 won't be reliable at huge power numbers for long but you can easily, cheaply and reliably make them a good bit faster than a b swap with no problem.

 

These D series motors are crap in stock form. I have a fully build D16y7. very very reliable. have put over 20,000 on my setup. The tune is everything. Without a proper tune you can blow your engine in minutes but search this stuff up. And as for the guys saying they are ticking time bombs. Ill prove mine is stable. The d16 series has been known to push 700 horsepower with some saying 800. There has been tons of research went into this and they have proven them selves worthy. The only people blowing engines in them either had an improper tune, rods not worthy of this much power, or a combination of things. My car was tuned at Humble performance making over 300 at the wheel at 15 psi. Yes I know the d16y8 would make more so dont even start that crap either. What I have that they dont is a car that runs good on the low end and like a bat out of hell up top. I dont need the vtec to produce power. At 40 under raw power mine starts to spin out.

Oh and Any motor can throw a rod in stock form. In fact I have a b18 LS sitting right now with a rod thrown out the side of the block.

chevy v8 were notorius for throwing rods threw the blocks. And most domestic 4 cylinders were known for doing this. Most idiots dont check there oil and destroy motors this way.

 

Only good D16 are the Z6 and the A6 the rest suck. Do a Vitara and eagle or custom rod length and the rest of the stuff you need. Any D series after 95 is junk, they like to spit rods out the block. Pretty easy and cheap to, I made 440 on a Z6 with the vitara and eagles and never once had a problem. I drove the **** out of that motor for a year and sold it.. I bet that motor still runs today... But hey thats my part, do as you wish...