Ok so i stepped out of the game for a while till i was done with college and im pretty done for now. That being said its time for another build. This time its going to be in a 95 EX coupe. Ive been considering LSvtec because ive never had one but i dont really need vtec that bad with a big enough snail. so here are my thoughts to make a reliable 350-400whp

BLOCK:
CP 9.5:1 PISTONS
EAGLE H BEAM RODS
LS CRANK
HEAD:
CROWER 402t CAMS
p75 port&polish
5 ANGLE INTAKE JOB
3 ANGLE EXHUST JOB
SUPERTECH DUAL VALVE SPRINGS W/ TITANIUM RETAINERS.
SKUNK2 IM

TURBO KIT
TREADSTONE KIT W/GREDDY BOV
TRANNY
CLUTCHMASTERS 6 PUCK SPRUNG
10 POUND FLYWHEEL
LS/GSR TRANNY

TUNE
TREADSTONE 240LPH FUEL PUMP
NEPTUNE RTP- TUNED BY 98VTEC AKA BLAKE
3 BAR MAP SENSOR
AUTOMETER BOOST GUAGE & OIL PRESSURE GUAGE
PLX WIDBAND M300

MISC
TREADSTONE VACUMM RAIL
CATCH CAN


Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. The build will start in roughly 2 weeks

 

Sounds like a good plan. I would personally bump compression up to 10-10.5:1, makes for a funner car to drive out of boost and helps spool the turbo faster. A Vtec head is a very very good idea, you will make more power on less boost, better flowing head design, more after market support, way better rocker arm design and you can rev the motor higher and still make power and not throw a rocker arm. Vtec head with Type R cams is a great combo for boost.

 

my limit is somewhere around 4500 bucks thats the main reason i stayed away from the vtec head. i do plan to port the head and get crower 404 cams as well to match the flow of a vtec head. I can get an entire LS longblock for 250 but a vtec head around here minus the dizzy is right around 400-900 bucks, people think there gold

 

I would skip the 404s. I would do something with a little less lift, as you're probably not gonna have a turbo big enough to take advantage of it.

how much is this porting going to cost you? that'll probably be close enough to the price of a vtec head.

 

B18c

 

Thats not what the man asked for
Plus, if hes on a budget, B18c's aren't within it likely, they're STUPID expensive around here at least...

OP, there are better IM's you can get for that price.
S2's are expensive and ... not highly looked upon.

 

the port job is right around 325, there are no vtec heads here close to that price, theres one b18c locally and the guy wont budge off of the 1200 dollar price tag. if you take that 1200 and add pistons bearings rods oil pump and building the head plus the turbo kit and tune youll be well over 7500. now with my 250 dollar LS and 3k worth of work ill be a contender. ive never owned an LS so its different, ill do LSV if i want more power later down the road

 

i was also looking into a victor x

 

Sounds about right!
I found one a few cities over that I picked up for 400 but it's in TERRIBLE shape and needs quite ... a lot of work.

Where I don't have any experience with them, I've seen quite a few builds use the edlebrock intake mani.

Pop over to the Forced Induction forums and I'm sure they'll have more input

 

and i think crower 402s should be plenty. i do want to street drive this and with the break in period i dont want to stall out at red lights

 

a b16 head should go for around 400.

 

Your in Florida. Go around Ocala/Tampa areas. Honda **** left and right there. Barter. My buddy is from there and he gets stuff cheap as hell.

 

You can pick up a vtec head for what your going to waste on the LS head. If sticking with nonvtec get springs retainers keepers and leave the rest alone. Don't port the head it's a waste of money. Put that 300+ into something else useful. 402t's will maintain stock like powerband and give you an additional 400-600 rpm and give you gains with the added valve lift. They will work well for 350-400hp. Pick your self up a turbo capable of 500-550 to meet your goals. It's going to take 5-6 psi more boost on the LS than a vtec head.

 

i dont know why people think florida is small. ocala/tampa is 9-10 hours away. also THERE ARE NO VTEC HEADS WITHIN A 3 HOUR DRIVE FOR UNDER 500, plus there ALWAYS missing the dizzy or other parts. to fully port the head its 385 dollars with my hookup. that port job is not a waste of money because it will flow as well or better than a stock b16 head.

 

also im paying 250 for an entire b18b1. im not trying to leave a single thing on the motor untouched. this motor build will have a true 0 mile reading when i start it up. wise man said if im gonna do it, do it right the first time. so even if i found a vtec head that would have to be built as well

 

No one pays 900 for a stock vtec head, for that matter no one pays 500, unless it's a complete type r cams and all

Hell I can get a bare cnc ported head that needs new valve seats and some love on one cylinders combustion chambers for under 150

It's all in who you know, how and where you look

 

i dont know many people here. ive been here 3 years and everyone either rapes on prices or scams you.the person with the most parts is the biggest scammer.

 

That's FL for ya...

 

Go 10:1 possibly 11:1 with Crower 404s being that you are going with forged rods.

 

11:1 is a little high for any power level on 93 octane. . Staying 10:1-10.5:1 is a much more reasonable goal

 

There are people safely running 11.5:1 on 91. 11:1 would give him decent off boost drivability. Also suggest that high because of the low dynamic compression of the 404s

 

Maybe all motor, running that same 11.5:1 motor boosted on 91 is a horrible idea. You'll have a low power threshold before knock becomes a serious issue

 

Yes 11.5:1 on 91 n/a. I've also seen 11:1 on 93 14psi on a 57trim

 

the thing is i want a quicker dyno tune. im not trying to spend 6-9 hours on the dyno like i have before back home in virginia because of hi boost/vtec/high compression. i was cut a deal but still 1000 dollars for a tune was not what i had in mind that day. im sure the tuner i will be using here is a lot better but i dont want to take chances with knocking or a super long tune. From what my machinist says i would be better off running 8:1-9:1 pistons so that there will be more room for error. He also said that i can compensate for the low compression with a BB turbo.

 

well your machinist is horribly wrong. in fact, i'd run away if he said that to me.

dyno tuning is usually flat rate. not sure why it would cost a grand.