Ok so I have a b18 in my ef and I have the turbo kit only missing injectors which im getting soon now heres my checklist and please tell me if im missing anything.

-arp rod and main bolts
-arp head bolts
-cometic headgasket
-rc 550cc injectors
-ebay stage 5 axles
-act clutch rated for 310ft lbs of torque

Im only looking to make 280-300hp on the stock b18a1

Already did a compression test and im shooting 180 in each cylinder.

The question I do have though is what will I have to upgrade in cooling system?

 

that kind of hp i would sell the arp's and stay out of the internals. still missing some kind of software, a whole turbo kit or parts, as far as the cooling just replace water pump and thermostat. thats IT provided all hoses, rad, rad cap all in good order

 

you might have to get a half sized radiator.

I'd just get some eagle rods at least so you never have to worry about snapping.

you still need :
Turbo, ecu, tune, oil pan tap, oil feed for turbo, turbo manifold, intercooler, piping, downpipe, wastegate solution,

 

that horsepower is going to be rough on the pistons using pump gas.

 

really thats why my ls/t 100% stock bottom end lasted for YEARS and got **** beat out of it DAILY. it made 326whp only engine parts not stock was head internals. as a mterr of fact i did a compresion test 2 weeks before a bearing went in may and still was runnig 180 across the board on a b1. so his hp goal VERY doable with stock internals. man i love all the mis info on this site. piston reliability is ALL in the tune. you tune it lean or to rich then yes piston will take a beating.

 

Arp main bolts require an align hone to be used. And you don't need mains at 300hp

 

Just to be clear. I have the full turbo kit with a t3/t4 turbonetics turbo turbonetics wastegate and hks bov. I have the piping and intercooler also have a custom made log manifold. I was thinking of switching to a ramhorn but I dont think I need it for 280-300hp ( please correct me if im wrong ) The only things I am missing is oil lines.

So far from you guys I got that I dont really need main arp. Just arp rod bolts and head bolts. Also is the cometic headgasket good or is there a better one i am unaware of?

 

turbosmart wastegate*

 

Before I put the motor in about 3k miles ago I changed the timing belt and water pump also. But I am running no thermostat here in miami. Im guessing when I go boost I should run a thermostat also correct?

 

why would you run no thermostat? regardless where you live.

Having a thermostat keeps temps regulated.

 

yea cometic hg is good, if you really feel the need then yes use the arp headstuds. you deff need to look into your tuning as well. i personally recomend for your hp a hondata BUT call YOUR tunner and ask him/her what they are comfortable with.

 

@virus I bought the swap and I checked to see if there was a thermostat when the engine was running in my car cause I realized it took a little long to warm up. Anyways I didnt feel the need to put one yet so I havent since all it did was take a little longer to warm up and its good. I always let my car warm up for like 5 mins before I even drive it so not a problem for me. and @jdm if im going to change the headgasket I was thinking i might as well use the arp head bolts. Im tuning with turbogixer which Ive seen alot of his work and he has had great numbers from him and have heard the he is very reliable. ill ask him which computer he is comfortable with thanks for all the help by the way

 

np man, since your changing hg arp's are deff the way to go, as oem studs cost almost same price as arp. good luck on your build

 

Stay out of the engine and run stock axles. A well tuned stock setup should last a good amount of years (mine did) around 250-300.

 

yes, i had a minime make 307 all stock parts leaning way out. i did it. yes. would i recommend it? no.

telling this guy that seems to not have much of an idea to max parts out is a bad idea. dynos read different, yours could be high. what did the car trap?

op- i would stick to around 250-270 to stay on the safe side and have fun.

 

@lightning you didnt change the headgasket atleast? And wont the axles just snap if I leave them stock?

 

One more major question I have for you guys: Do I need a aftermarket computer when I go to tune? I never have gotten tuned before so I wouldnt know my friend is going to chip my p75 for me but I wanted to know if I need a hondata or aem computer or if the tuner hooks up his and the tune is stored on the p75 always wondered this. I know its a noob question but I need a serious answer

 

PERSONALLY if the motor passes a leak down (less than 10% across all 4) and comp test is 180 across all 4 i would stay out completely.

axles--- MANY MANY stock axles have seen 300-350, should you be ginger with them over stock hp sure but they WILL work


tuning--- leave up to your tunner to provide/sell you ecu, nothig against your "buddy" but thats when **** can/will go wrong. let TRAINED professionals do what they get paid to do.

 

Dont bother with the mains or the cometic hg...if compression is good, dont f**k with it. The stock block, if tuned correctly, will handle 300whp all day every day...no need for rods/pistons, etc. If you pre-load correctly if/when you launch the car, there's no need for upgraded axles. If anything, get a set of Autozone lifetime replacements

Be sure to read the Forced Induction FAQ at the top of the FI forum

 

@jdm I might just do that then. Just to be clear all my friend is going to do is install the chip on my p75. Hes been learning slowly to tune but im not tuning with him. Im going to do a leakdown test thats the last thing im missing and if its less then 10% percent across then Im not going to open it at all. But I still need to know do I have to buy a hondata or aem computer or will the tuner use his own and just save the tune on my p75 I dont know how it works. and I will be towing my car to the tuner im not starting it up until I get to the dyno lol. @schister thanks I already have lifetime warranty axles so now that I know they can hold the power well I will keep them. You guys just saved me some $$$ thanks and I'm going to read the faq right now

 

If you can find a tuner who will use it, Crome is a cheap alternative to AEM or Hondata. Most Honda tuners should be able to tune on it, but they may not like it. AEM/Hondata are nice and if budget allows, get Hondata S200. It has more features than Crome/CromePro/Neptune but if you're not going to use those features, there's no point in paying for them.

The p75 should work (as its an OBD1 ecu) but i'm not sure I would let an inexperienced person solder the chip into the ecu for me...there are companies (like Xenocron, Pherable, J-K-Tuning) who will solder a chip into an ECU for you AND give you a basemap to allow you to drive the car around before tuning. It isn't going to be spot-on and isn't safe with much boost, but it will allow you to at least drive the car to the tuner

 

Ok I will call my tuner and ask him what he is comfortable with. So I do have to buy one of those computers to get tuned correct? I cant just go with a p75 chipped to a tuner? I will have to do more research on the tuning aspect.

 

I will be towing my car to the tuner by the way.

 

"chipping" does nothing because there's no control-interface with the ECU. That's what the dyno is for. I'll be surprised if any tuner of any repute would work with anything less than CROME PRO at a minimum for this system. You can use OBDII ECUs, but only for systems like E-manage Ultimate (Yes, many still use it, just not in Honda world, but works fine), but the easier alternative for most would be Hondata or Neptune, or AEM EMS (Standalone units)

 

Talked to him already, hes going to use neptune.