I've just reinstalled the timing belt on my 92 Accord 2.2L. After setting #1 TDC I marked the cam sprocket on a few of its teeth at the top and on the belt itself where it matches up there in advance of removing the belt so to assist me keeping my place upon the reinstallation. I've got the UP mark on the cam sprocket properly positioned and also with the two small alignment marks on the sprocket aligned parallel with the top of the head, and the crankshaft pulley also set at the #1 TDC position. The manual states that before tightening the adjusting bolt (for the belt tensioner and which goes through the timing belt cover) to rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the camshaft sprocket has moved three teeth, and then tighten the adjusting bolt. I'm not clear on the reason for this but its apparently important to do so.
I'm going to want to adjust the valves next, and the first part of that procedure includes beginning with at #1 TDC. So if I turn the engine three teeth, as mentioned above, past the #1 TDC position for that purpose of tightening the adjusting bolt, I'll be wanting to rotate the engine back to the #1 TDC position to begin the valve adjustment procedure. My manual also states turning the engine backwards may cause the timing belt to jump a tooth or slacken, which I definitely would want to avoid happening. Is it okay to turn the engine backwards just a little ways, three cam sprocket teeth backwards, and not risk the timing belt jumping or slackening, or should I instead rotate the engine only counterclockwise always, despite the seemingly insignificant distance of only the three-tooth distance. If so, then I suppose I should keep turning the engine counterclockwise all the way around until I hit #1 TDC position again?
Any comments appreciated.

 

The point of rotating 'three teeth' is to remove any slack in the belt. Once the slack is gone you tighten the large closed nut to lock down the adjusters. Then you can rotate the engine backwards or forwards. Although it is good practice to only rotate the engine the way it will be operated. With older belts/chains that have stretched a bit it is possible for the cam to crank timing to go off a tooth or so if the belt/chain has stretched. With a new belt and the adjusters locked down after removing slack, highly unlikely. Remember every full rotation of the crank is a half turn of the cam.

Before you finalize with covering everything verify that the camshaft to crankshaft timing is still spot on. You should be golden.

 

Great. Thanks for setting me straight about that Mad_Mike.

 

i have a 94 honda civic if i unplug the fan switch sensor and bypass it with a paper clip and leave it like that will my temp gauge in the car still work ?

 

Sure why not...

Civic forum is thatta way newb.

 

you thread jacked a thread to ask a question that has nothing to do with the OP?

 

yea sorry i cant make a thread yet and i was just curious cus i bypassed it cus the fan wasnt comming on and it was overheating and now that ive done that the temp gauge doesnt look like it moves at all maybe just a sliver or two over the cold line thats why i was wondering

 

can't make a thread yet?