Hi Guys-

I just finished the Head Gasket, valve adjustments on F22b1--1994 Honda Accord EX A/T.

I took the car out and when I try to Throttle the car, seems like it has no power and it's not moving??

If I put the car in reverse, it works just fine, while in D3 and D4, almost 'Zero' power, what is it and what could be the possible reason?

Also, car is SOUNDING horrible, like old Diesel truck, while before doing the Head Gasket, it ran fin and like a charm.

Car starts and Idles perfectly fine. Head was resurfaced/cleaned from the machine shop and I have used Fel-Pro HG.

What do you guys suggest now?? Also, if the valves are too tight, will the car sound horrible with no power??

Looking forward to the advices Thanks very much for helping out.

On the same note, I did the compression test just now:
#1=200, #2=190, #3=170, #4=175

 

Anyone out there has any idea or advice for me?

 

From the compression results I'd say you got the headgasket on a little crooked but, with it sounding like a diesel I think the timing is off. If the timing is off you probably bent your valves.

 

But why car is not ready to move or seems like it has no power?Sounding super loud and horrible, you think is a possible timing issue?

 

Yes. Check the timing.

 

Thanks so much brother, any suggestion to best align/adjust the timing?

Way I am planning to proceed is:

1- Align the Crankshaft to TDC with the dimples aligned with the mark on lower T/B cover.

2- Then pull the rocker arm, slide the cam shaft and adjust the cam shaft by sliding the T/B off of it to align timing marks.

Any other helpful tips or suggestions or if I am missing something?

 

Hang on - why pull the belt. You want to "check" it.

Yes, set the crank to TDC - and note there is more than one mark on the pulley. Then check the marks on the cam gear.

I know the dist is off/out but also be sure to double check the firing order to be sure you didn't cross one up.

 

I appreciate the help and cooperation, just like you, I am "Lost Again"

OK, another quick question, in order to perfectly adjust the timing, Crank is the best way to go since I pulled the camshaft while doing the HG, right? Please have a look on the attached picture from the FSM.

Also, grove on the rocker arm assembly needs to be aligned with the "Up" mark on the Cam gear or it's not relevant? Please see in my 2nd picture.

Because if 'Crank' is the best way to go for TDC, I will just remove the rocker arm and adjust the cam gear 'Up' accordingly.

Also, in my life I am unable to find 2 little dimples out at the teeth of the sprocket of cam gear.

 

Get the crank to TDC for #1.

Pull the upper timing cover - from the drivers fender look at the cam gear - I call the marks on the cam gear more like "small line indentations" on the gear. Might wipe the "face" of the gear with a clean rag.

 

Thanks so much again, really appreciate it.

One last thing, marking/groove thing on the rocker arm is irrelevant or it needs to be aligned with the mark/groove on the Cam gear?

Please see in the picture with a Black arrow and Red rectangle.

 

Quick update about the issue.

First of all, thanks so much for helping out guys, really appreciate it.

Couple of things were wrong:

1- Timing wasn't right, fixed and did the timing from scratch for both Cam/Crank by following the advice given by "Lost".

2-Way I did the the valves adjustment, it wasn't right. Did the valves adjustment again and no more 'Loud' Diesel engine noise. Engine is really smooth and quiet as it's before doing the HG with the same power/response as it's previously.

Thanks so much, I really appreciate all the help and cooperation

 

Can you do another compression test. I'm curious what it's at right now. It's not often a head gasket fix is done correctly and without issues. If yours is fine, I'd love to know.

 

Sure, I am going to do another compression today after driving the car for nearly 45-60mins.

Then will post the numbers.

BTW, I drove it in the morning today, whenever temp gauge goes past half mark, fan kicks in and it drop below half.

For some reason on the back of my mind, I still have a fear that issue has not been fixed

On another note, what's the factory or Original HG type(Graphite or MLS)??Because the old one which I pulled was a MLS HG and not even sure if it's the original one?

 

can you make a video of the temp gauge as the car warms up ? i'd love to see it

 

So I drove the car today for nearly 55-60 miles, fans do not run as soon as I turn the car off. While previously they used to run for a bit after turning the car off.

Have a look on the attached picture it's after a drive of nearly 45 mins, though gauge goes slightly higher from the picture posted below but both fans come and it drops below the half mark.

Another thing to note is, I am running genuine OEM Honda T-stat with aftermarket radiator.

I am keeping my fingers X-ed about the overheating and motor running hot.

 

i can't confirm totally since i have a 4th gen and i can't recall exactly where my ex's 5th gen stood but i believe that's slightly higher than normal...hopefuly someone with 5th gen can confirm

i really would love to see the compression test results

 

.

 

Thanks for the input and feedback guys, based on my understanding and research it should sit below the half mark. Say 35-40% mark.

I am going to bleed the system again, because I have driven the car for nearly 100miles now.

Overall gauge is always well below half, only goes slightly higher than the half mark when idling, both fan kicks and drops below again.

Going to bleed the system as suggested and post back the results.

Thanks again guys

 

So here is another question, car idles perfectly fine and dead on, there is no CEL either.

But when I am accelerating, seems like car is shaking a bit or maybe hesitating a lil bit on lower RPMs, though it's very minor but after 2K rpm's it seems pretty steady and run just fine.

Questions:

If the valves are too tight or loose , would the car behave as mentioned above?

Is there anything else which can be checked to make sure nothing is wrong?

Thanks for the help

 

On these there is adjustment on the timing - get a light and use the proper procedure for checking/adjusting the timing.

For the gauge - I think I posted this in one of the many threads you have about the car. In my personal experience, I have found that once you get one of these HOT the sender seems to "change" spec's.

Meaning once they overheat a few times or to an extream - the gauge reads higher than before once the issue is resolved. So spend the ~$5 on a new gauge sender and see what happens.

If I'm wrong and you want the ~$5 back----drive an hour or so south and I'll buy the beer....I'm in NC, from my house on I-85 I can be in VA in ~30 minutes.

 

Thanks so much for the suggestions brother, really appreciate it.

What you say about the lil bit hesitation, it could be a timing related thing?

Where do you get the gauge sender for $5? Any recommendation?
Is this the right part?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...witch%2Fsender

I am going to follow your advice and going to buy a new gauge sender, if it doesn't resolve the issue, I am willing to drive 5 hrs to get to you, since i am in Northern VA

Thanks again, there are quiet a few guys on this forum to whom I always listen and adhere, you are one of them

 

I'm thinking the timing might be off just a bit causing the issue. A timing light and a few minutes of time to be sure it is set correct can't hurt.

Wow, guess it has been a while since I bought one of those.....yes that is the one, I didn't think they were that proud of them.

 

Thanks for the response.

Today in the morning, I resetted the ECU, response has improved a lot.

But I am going to wait and watch, if issue happened again going to check the timing.

For the sensor, I am planning to bite the bullet and see if gauge stays all the time below half mark

 

Alright 'Holmes', so I did the compression test today after the car was fully warmed up and here are the numbers:

#1=200, #2=190, #3=195 and #4=195

 

those numbers are fine....if you moved the distributor you need to reset the ignition timing...its very important to get it within specs


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