So I installed my coilovers on my CRV this evening... and my god that was a pain in my ***. Not so much from an install perspective, but using ITR coilovers isn't CRV friendly without ridiculously small tires. Even then, I'm quite certain that the upper control arm and the rear knuckle are going to smash the body at some point. Ended up having to use my lift kit in the rear to get it to not sit on it's nuts like a dog. I could have raised it up a bit more, but I didn't feel terribly comfortable having so little threads being engaged on the lower mount. Anyways, I'll get more pics in the daytime.

 

Looks good. I had mine alot lower then that, and the rear never rubbed at all.

 

The rear doesn't seem to mind much. However, I'm running a taller tire than you are. The front is straight up hell. I have a LOT to do up there. And I didn't have to shave the control arm or anything like that. Everyone says it'll get stuck, but I took the knuckle off and ran the arm up until it contacted the shock tower... No issues. Unless everyone's talking about clearance issues after a camber kit. That, I could see. I need a camber kit BAD in the rear.

 

No that's not it at all. They will get stuck, but you are no where low enough for that to happen to you.

 

You're talking about the lip on the upper part of the inner fender, right? I have a ton of clearance there. The top of the control arm is clear all the way til it smashes the body.

 

youll find out when it happens

 

lol hopefully not.

 

Everything is finally settled.


And I installed a new shift ****, lol.


Just need to add a nut and washer on those threads to keep the boot tucked up tight against the "****" lol.

 

Lol can't wait till a cop tries to charge you for an "open container" haha

 

That's pretty funny.

 

A lot of 240 guys use beer taps as shift *****.

 

do beer taps fit the thread pattern?

 

Does it fit? No. Well, yes. No. Not exactly. It's 3/8"-16 threaded. Our shifters are M10x1.5, IIRC. The actual major diameter is almost exact, just a tiny bit smaller, and the thread pitch matches. Essentially, if the tap is plastic, just carefully turn it til it gives resistance, then wiggle it a bit in 360 degrees, and it'll loosen up a bit and you can keep working it down like that til it engages enough to feel safe to shift with. Every couple days, mine loosens up a tiny bit, and I turn it a couple degrees. Though, the last couple days, it hasn't freed up any, so I think it's about done.

I can honestly say the tap was the best mod I've done to any vehicle. The stock shifter sat a bit low for my taste. Now it sits at what I feel is the perfect height for an SUV, and it's way more comfortable to drive now. However, I do need to shorten the throw, as I feel like I'm rowing through an Eaton transmission in a Peterbilt at times. LOL

I left that family a few years back. Though it's kinda like having an accent, some of the traits of a 240 guy come out in me once in a while.