Gsr swap in a crx ? about crank pulley
Ok guy I am swaping a gsr in my crx and I swap a b18b in a ef frien and the crank pulley hut the trastion bar I am sure is going to happen the something with my swap can I get any aftermarket pulley that don't **** up my balancing or what ever u say (sorry for my English) and I am using a innovation trastion bar help me guy please
Get the CTR N1 crank pulley. You can get it for like $70-80 bucks and it's OEM Honda. You will need a new belt too. Also, it is alternator only. No AC or PS.
I have and aftermarket pulley but is so light that I am scare that my crank is get out of balancing and I have a b16a crank pulley front the crx sir that the engine I have right now on her and I don't have any problem with the pulley
IIRC what I was going to do when I had a GSR/CRX project in the works was to take the OEM b18c1 pulley to a local machine shop and have them machine off the AC and PS portions of it. then balance it. Then I would have a OEM part without PS or AC and still retain the rubber harmonic dampener material inside the pulley.
I had this issue in my b20 swapped 90 Hatch. The pulley was hitting the radius rods coming off the crossmember. I found a used CTR N1 pulley on here=problem solved.
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If you dont have AC, then you dont need the rubber. The alternator has very low, constant drag. The rubber is for when the AC compressor clutch engages and instantly add lots more drag to the pulley/crankshaft. It dampens that engagement. If it needed the rubber for just the alternator, then honda would have put it on the N1 pulley 

Only Dohc vtec engines had their cranks zero balanced for the higher revs. Hence the n1 only marketed for the ctr engine.
Ive pulled plenty of b series cranks that started to walk from excess vibration, mainly caused by abuse and torn insufficient stock dampeners.
Take a look at fluidamper and ati, theres a reason they didn't just pop out a n1 ctr crank pulley clone.
N1
Pros: Made just for the application OP is needing - Alternator only.
Weighs less than a machined stock pulley
Smaller in diameter (i think, not 100% sure)
Designed and built to OEM Honda specifications FOR DOHC Vtec engines (ie: GSR)
Cons: Cost? But you can get used ones for $40-50...
Less alternator drive/output (lights dim at low idle rpm - like 500 or less)
Machined stock pulley
Pros: easier to find? although N1 pulleys can be bought from any honda dealership...
Rubber ring!!! woohooo!!! lol, although you dont need it
Cons: Cost of machining can be more than the cost of an N1 pulley...
Heavier
Have to find a GOOD machine shop WITH a balancing machine
Possibility of poor machine work
Im sure that there are plenty more pros and cons for each, but those are just off the top of my head. I still dont get why people will half the weight of their flywheel and cheer for joy, but flip a **** about taking a damn rubber ring out of their crank pulley lol. Im not saying it doesnt have it's purpose, but I have done my own research and concluded that for my goals, I do not need it. The CTR N1 pulley is perfect for me and my needs. It's not perfect for everyone. Oh well.
Pros: Made just for the application OP is needing - Alternator only.
Weighs less than a machined stock pulley
Smaller in diameter (i think, not 100% sure)
Designed and built to OEM Honda specifications FOR DOHC Vtec engines (ie: GSR)
Cons: Cost? But you can get used ones for $40-50...
Less alternator drive/output (lights dim at low idle rpm - like 500 or less)
Machined stock pulley
Pros: easier to find? although N1 pulleys can be bought from any honda dealership...
Rubber ring!!! woohooo!!! lol, although you dont need it
Cons: Cost of machining can be more than the cost of an N1 pulley...
Heavier
Have to find a GOOD machine shop WITH a balancing machine
Possibility of poor machine work
Im sure that there are plenty more pros and cons for each, but those are just off the top of my head. I still dont get why people will half the weight of their flywheel and cheer for joy, but flip a **** about taking a damn rubber ring out of their crank pulley lol. Im not saying it doesnt have it's purpose, but I have done my own research and concluded that for my goals, I do not need it. The CTR N1 pulley is perfect for me and my needs. It's not perfect for everyone. Oh well.
I know what you mean about the traction bar. I have heard different mounts might help but the pulley is easier. I have an aluminum underdrive aftermarket, has all 3 ribs and I use the a/c. With a gsr you will be fine. The N1 pulley is nice but heavier than it looks. I have a used one, PM me if you want it.
This is another point I forgot to mention. The N1 is made out of steel, not soft 6061 aluminum. It has some weight to it, but it is still many times lighter than stock. Im not sure if I would run one of the aluminum pulleys... I would rather drill lightening holes in an N1 lol
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