1990 civic si hatch wont pass smog
HC is raw fuel and CO is partially burned fuel.
Clogged air filter - new air filter.
Stuck or clogged fuel injector - run a tank of gas with injector cleaner. Empty the tank - do not test with injector cleaner in your fuel.
Weak ignition - spark plugs, wires, cap rotor.
Lazy O2 sensor - they won't throw a computer fault unless they are really dead.
Vacuum leak - spray starting fluid (or use propane - search google for how to) on you intake hoses and on your intake and throttle body gaskets with the engine running. If you have a vacuum leak the idle with jump up.
Dirty throttle plate - best way is to remove the throttle body and thoroughly clean it. Also get inside the intake manifold if possible. If you don't remove it, clean off the throttle plate as best you can.
Check ignition timing - make sure the the electronic ignition advance is defeated (jumper/paperclip in the service connector) before setting.
Have your catalytic converter checked - they use a point-and-shoot thermometer to check the input and output temps of the catalytic converter. There should be a big difference in the temps if the cat is working.
And change your oil... this is always a good thing.
Test on the LOWEST octane gas recommended for your engine (check owners manual). It will give a more complete burn than the higher octane gas.
When you go for the test, drive for a good 20min before the test, pull up and let the car idle (don't turn it off), and wait no longer than 5 min to have it tested. If you have to wait longer, tell the tech you will be back in a few minutes and go for a short ride. Getting the car warmed up fully is great especially for the catalytic converter. Letting it idle too long is bad for internal temps of the motor.
Clogged air filter - new air filter.
Stuck or clogged fuel injector - run a tank of gas with injector cleaner. Empty the tank - do not test with injector cleaner in your fuel.
Weak ignition - spark plugs, wires, cap rotor.
Lazy O2 sensor - they won't throw a computer fault unless they are really dead.
Vacuum leak - spray starting fluid (or use propane - search google for how to) on you intake hoses and on your intake and throttle body gaskets with the engine running. If you have a vacuum leak the idle with jump up.
Dirty throttle plate - best way is to remove the throttle body and thoroughly clean it. Also get inside the intake manifold if possible. If you don't remove it, clean off the throttle plate as best you can.
Check ignition timing - make sure the the electronic ignition advance is defeated (jumper/paperclip in the service connector) before setting.
Have your catalytic converter checked - they use a point-and-shoot thermometer to check the input and output temps of the catalytic converter. There should be a big difference in the temps if the cat is working.
And change your oil... this is always a good thing.
Test on the LOWEST octane gas recommended for your engine (check owners manual). It will give a more complete burn than the higher octane gas.
When you go for the test, drive for a good 20min before the test, pull up and let the car idle (don't turn it off), and wait no longer than 5 min to have it tested. If you have to wait longer, tell the tech you will be back in a few minutes and go for a short ride. Getting the car warmed up fully is great especially for the catalytic converter. Letting it idle too long is bad for internal temps of the motor.
Last edited by 4drEF; Jul 2, 2013 at 03:15 PM.
Only thing i didnt do was clean up the throttle body.changed oil,spark plugs,oil filter,spark plug wires,air filter,put a bottle of fuel injector cleaner.catylic checked.
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only one problem now tho.any ideas?

