My little father son kick:
So, me and my dad have been wanting to start a project car for awhile now and weve finally come across the funds to do so. We put $20 a week in a bank account each, obviously we have a joint account. So anyway, the plan was to buy my brothers 95 civic coupe and start there. Well they surprised me for my birthday last monday and gave us they keys. The cars in my dads name as itll only cost him $15 a month for ins. lol. We dont have a garage, so were using my uncles garage, and paying some rent. It wont be a project thats done in a few months by any means but its a fun project for my dad and i.
What we did today was pull the bumper and straighten out the lower radiator support that was bent in-ward due to a previous owner, (a 15 yr-old girl), hitting a small tree a long time ago. So i didnt get any before pics but we got it as straight as we cld and the bumper fits waaay better and the hood shuts nice and easy, which before u had to slam it to get it to shut.
The over-all goal:
LS on 10-15lbs..... 250-300whp. We want something fun to drive on the street and can go to the track and have some fun.
What it needs first!!!
scary rust hole in fender well
front lower control arms
inner tie-rod ends
lower ball joints
a hood
exhaust work
cam seals
axels
sending unit for oil press. gauge leaks a lil
and struts/springs
The pics:










The hood...

The swirls/scratches:



That was the day we got it to the garage... So yesterday i got bored and decided to try and clean the interior up a bit, trust me when i tell u these "before" pics dont do any justice on how gross this interior was..... Took me a good 3.5hrs all together!
Before:









After:





Flash on:

Flash off:

After i got all this done i put the front end on jack stands, and have just ordered the following:
New front lower control arms
New inner and outter tie rod ends
New ebay springs, (just to get us by for now, save the lecture lol)
New lower ball joints
Warrenty exchange axels from autozone
Once we get all these parts in, ill be taking lots of pics when we go to install them, and even a video to show how bad the control arms are.
What we did today was pull the bumper and straighten out the lower radiator support that was bent in-ward due to a previous owner, (a 15 yr-old girl), hitting a small tree a long time ago. So i didnt get any before pics but we got it as straight as we cld and the bumper fits waaay better and the hood shuts nice and easy, which before u had to slam it to get it to shut.
The over-all goal:
LS on 10-15lbs..... 250-300whp. We want something fun to drive on the street and can go to the track and have some fun.
What it needs first!!!
scary rust hole in fender well
front lower control arms
inner tie-rod ends
lower ball joints
a hood
exhaust work
cam seals
axels
sending unit for oil press. gauge leaks a lil
and struts/springs
The pics:










The hood...

The swirls/scratches:



That was the day we got it to the garage... So yesterday i got bored and decided to try and clean the interior up a bit, trust me when i tell u these "before" pics dont do any justice on how gross this interior was..... Took me a good 3.5hrs all together!
Before:









After:





Flash on:

Flash off:

After i got all this done i put the front end on jack stands, and have just ordered the following:
New front lower control arms
New inner and outter tie rod ends
New ebay springs, (just to get us by for now, save the lecture lol)
New lower ball joints
Warrenty exchange axels from autozone
Once we get all these parts in, ill be taking lots of pics when we go to install them, and even a video to show how bad the control arms are.
Sorry i havent been updating this as much as should, havent had any free time in awhile. So first were gonna go way back to when we did the suspension. First is a video of how bad it was when we got it:
So the car has all new: upper control arms, lower control arms, upper ball joints, lower ball joints, inner tie-rods ends, outter tie-rod ends, and springs. Heres some pics of the install:






The car also has new wheel bearings. We found out why it was leaking oil too..... The sending unit for the oil pressure gauge had broke but some how still worked??? yea, idk. So i contacted Jegs where i bought the gauge and they sent out a sending unit for free, just had to pay $5 shipping. So i had this bright idea to prevent it from happening again. Down below is a picture of the old one and the new one with the idea:

The new one with a thick layer of RTV silicone to keep the stud in place and leak free. So far have yet to see it leak, and the pressure on the gauge seems to be a lot more stable. (gauges are Sunpro electric gauges)

So we drove the car like this for a few weeks before i came across a deal for some better stock cams out of a newer integra. $30 shipped from MN. So me and the little one put those in:
She was pretty dirty when i pulled the valve cover!!!





So this is how the car sits as of now, fun to drive, no leaks, no rattles, my dad drives it to works just about everyday. So then we came across another great deal, i wont go into details but ill tell you this.... 115k miles, 1 owner (older lady), $300:

So me and dad cleaned the basement out, 2 full truck loads of garbage, to get the new motor on the engine stand. We got the auto trans pulled off and set aside to sell, and we plan on a few ARP bolts here and there and itll go in the car next spring. I think we plan on rebuilding it over winter. Ill be sure to take lots of pics, but so far my favorite pic was the one i took after i pulled the valve cover





Needless to say i was very happy when i seen how clean this thing was. Thats about all i have for now. thx for lookin.
So the car has all new: upper control arms, lower control arms, upper ball joints, lower ball joints, inner tie-rods ends, outter tie-rod ends, and springs. Heres some pics of the install:






The car also has new wheel bearings. We found out why it was leaking oil too..... The sending unit for the oil pressure gauge had broke but some how still worked??? yea, idk. So i contacted Jegs where i bought the gauge and they sent out a sending unit for free, just had to pay $5 shipping. So i had this bright idea to prevent it from happening again. Down below is a picture of the old one and the new one with the idea:

The new one with a thick layer of RTV silicone to keep the stud in place and leak free. So far have yet to see it leak, and the pressure on the gauge seems to be a lot more stable. (gauges are Sunpro electric gauges)

So we drove the car like this for a few weeks before i came across a deal for some better stock cams out of a newer integra. $30 shipped from MN. So me and the little one put those in:
She was pretty dirty when i pulled the valve cover!!!





So this is how the car sits as of now, fun to drive, no leaks, no rattles, my dad drives it to works just about everyday. So then we came across another great deal, i wont go into details but ill tell you this.... 115k miles, 1 owner (older lady), $300:

So me and dad cleaned the basement out, 2 full truck loads of garbage, to get the new motor on the engine stand. We got the auto trans pulled off and set aside to sell, and we plan on a few ARP bolts here and there and itll go in the car next spring. I think we plan on rebuilding it over winter. Ill be sure to take lots of pics, but so far my favorite pic was the one i took after i pulled the valve cover






Needless to say i was very happy when i seen how clean this thing was. Thats about all i have for now. thx for lookin.
These first 2 posts were pulled off a local forum im on, so the dates and some off the wording isnt correct but you get the just of it so far. We got the car May 20th. And we just got the new motor yesterday.
also decided to get the car weighed the other day... went to a near by scrap yard and with a 1/4 tank of gas and my dad in the car she came in at 2440. still have the print out in the glove box, lol
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Forgot to mention... We bought this car for $200! we took it to a local track to get a baseline out of it, 4 passes we went from a 16.7 to a 15.8 @ 87mph.
we got the motor flipped over on the stand and pulled the oil pan off... looked like your normal golden color but it didnt look or smell burnt which made me kinda happy. so my buddy took the oil pan to his work and used the parts cleaner and cleaned it inside and out. also didnt see any shavings either, nor did the oil feel gritty... the motors been sitting for 2 yrs so........ idk. also, when i turn the motor over by hand i can hear some compression making its way past what i think is the rings, (motor upside down). should i be concerned with this or is it ok?
the wiring harness that came with the auto trans/engine got stripped down to bare wires. we then labeled all the clips and removed the auto trans clips. we then went thru almost 2 rolls of E tape wrapping it all back up lol. for a test i took it to the car and switched em out and it didnt wanna fire, the engine light didnt even wanna work... then it hits me, well the fuel pump wont turn on without a ground. lol forgot the ground wire on the thermostat housing. hooked it up and fired right up, no engine lights or any thing. so now that i know it works i need to extend the IAC wires about 2in. and wrap it with a final "sumthing", still dont know what i wanna use but i dont wanna use wire lom, i think its ugly lol. please suggestions wld be nice. thanks for looking.
the wiring harness that came with the auto trans/engine got stripped down to bare wires. we then labeled all the clips and removed the auto trans clips. we then went thru almost 2 rolls of E tape wrapping it all back up lol. for a test i took it to the car and switched em out and it didnt wanna fire, the engine light didnt even wanna work... then it hits me, well the fuel pump wont turn on without a ground. lol forgot the ground wire on the thermostat housing. hooked it up and fired right up, no engine lights or any thing. so now that i know it works i need to extend the IAC wires about 2in. and wrap it with a final "sumthing", still dont know what i wanna use but i dont wanna use wire lom, i think its ugly lol. please suggestions wld be nice. thanks for looking.
Well i think it needs a lot of front end work....... This is all because my T-bracket WILL NOT fit, this is going to be hard to follow but please try to help me out: The far back bolt lines up and i keep it lose, the front top bolt lines up and i keep it lose, but when i go under the car the bottom 2 holes wont line up no matter how much i tweak the motor or the bracket. So the closest i can get is: Far back bolt, and very bottom bolt... The top front bolt will be off by more than a half inch. Im wondering if the back mount is screwed up or sumthin. I rly need a big honda know it all to chime in or come take a look at it. Ive been into hondas for 10 yrs and ive never seen anything like this!
well i cant take any pics yet, but i did get the mounts welded solid finally. Cost me $6 for the 1/4in thick steel plates, and $30 to have them welded at Emmerts in marion. Took em 10mins. Again we only did this cuz the rubber is completely shot, and this is to get us by till we can afford the $300 set of mounts. But on a bad note, the motor will be coming out due to the fact the it has a piece of the block missing, (right where the driver side mount bolts to the block), its being held by 1 19mm head lag bolt that was impacted into the aluminum block. Since after we got these mounts put in, you cld take the motor and move it 1/8in back and forth and all the movement was coming from that joint. So the motor will be pulled and some parts will be saved as it still runs good, the new motor will get headstuds and a head gasket. While the motors out we will sand the engine bay down wil some 200grit just to scuff it up and re-spray it black, (just spray cans, its not a show car). comments/suggestions welcome.
guys, i really need some advice about this rear t bracket issue...... im running out of ideas and nobody seems to know what to do or what the problem is.... HELP!!! thanks in advance.
you sure you have the correct mount? i dunno about EH/DC/EG cars, but the 6th gen the rear t-bracket gets changed out for a 99/00 Si mount.
alternatively, has the subframe in that car perhaps been replaced?
alternatively, has the subframe in that car perhaps been replaced?
finally figured out my t bracket issue.... I somehow ended up with 2 auto t brackets. I got ahold of a manual one and it slid right in like butter. The differences are hard to see. I know, dork stamp!!!! just glad i got it figured out, now we gotta pull the motor and get this new one in!









nice work mane