hey guys, i'm going to start parting together a build to boost my F23. As time goes along im going to start snapping pictures of whats purchased and upload my very slow progress. So this paycheck coming up, im going to purchase a Turbo. I feel once I get the Heart of the beast, it will cause me to keep progressing. My budget will be about ~1k maybe alittle more.

My car: 1998 4 door accord f23 manual. My car was tested for compression and was perfect
Goals: 40-50 whp gain.
@ 140k miles. I just did all major maintenance last week.
Here are my start questions.
1: Are all Blow off valves + waste gates virtually the same size where they bolt on? Reason for asking is i doubt a 900hp supra uses the same Stuff I would be using.
2. Fuel management?! The car is OBDII, and i have NO interest in converting it to OBDI. i want to pass inspection. Am i forced to go down the Stand alone EMS route? if so what is that cost of a used one and what brand do people prefer?

Thanks for you time. I will upload some parts as soon as i get them. I made some phone calls to a friend who may have a TurboXS Bov, a TiAL Waste gate and some Intercooler Piping(possibly a intercooler itself)

Ninja Edit: already bought ARP head stud kit!

Purchase list: If you have anything on my list that i need, Send me a PM, ill probably buy it
***if im missing something please yell at me***
*Turbo PURCHASED 35r
*Wastegate Purchased
*Wastegate dump Purchased
*Turbo manifold Purchased of a member
BOV
Piping
Intercooler
*ECU Purchased already chipped
*Stepdown Bought with ECU
*Boost gauge Purchased with mani
Oil lines
Downpipe going to custom fab
Boost controller

 

I liked this post until you said no interest in OBD1. Good luck in that matter.

The BOV is all about the flange you will be welding onto your charge piping. HKS, Tial, GReddy, etc all have different flanges. Common wastegate sizes for a manifold you would be using are 35mm and 38mm unless you want to go V-band.

As far as your gains go, you will definitely be pushing more than a 50whp gain. My factory F22B1 at 200k pushed 135whp and now pushes 235whp soon to be 250whp after my retune. Check my build thread if you want a more in depth description of the parts I used.

Good luck!

 

Awesome! thanks for the info. The reason why i don't want to go OBDI is for inspection. I dont know how I can get around that(does slipping a $100 into the mechanics hand still work?). And needing a conversion harness is a complete pain in the *** isnt it? I know if i go OBDI i can just mod a ECU with no issues and tune it.

 

Conversion harnesses aren't of any issue at all. Its honestly plug and complete play. Conversion harness+P28+Boost=Win, besides the P28's on Crome are super simple to tune. You can go with a more uppity management system if you would like, but I am in no way an expert in that department. Why would an OBDI ECU effect your inspection? I'm curious, considering its under your floor anyways. Other than them noticing the ECU/lack of code reader socket in a 96+ vehicle.

 

cause the hook up the NYS inspection machine via that reader, to check for issues, ect ect. im not exactly sure what it does, but i know every inspection ive ever gotten that thing gets hooked up. And i find it hard to believe that all i need is a OBDII to 1 conversion harness and a p 28 and im suddenly OBDI, if thats the case why not leave my OBDII Ecu there for inspection time? Also doesnt it effect injectors and the distributer? I just find it hard to believe its that easy.

 

ultimately i would enjoy being able to tune it myself. but i think letting someone like Xenocron do it so it doesnt blow up would be a better idea lol

 

Unless you have a really accurate way of watching or logging knock, I don't recommend it.

Or if you are using E85, don't worry about it, your engine will blow up before you get E85 knockin'

 

At this point I would like to kindly say, OP, ignore Orange. He is definitely a virus >.>
I'd love for you (OV) to just go up to a Garrett engineering facility and watch them spit out their coffee onto their pennyloafers.
The amount of crap I'm reading right now is ridiculous.

Edit: As far as retaining odb2 you can do a piggyback system like the Apexi VAFC or go standalone. Considering you're worried about the price AEM is kinda your only option. You can find used ones for around 6500/700 bit finding one for an accord will be tough (used I mean).

Unless you like chucking up the cash and time for something like a MoTeC you're limited.

 

All stupid internet rage aside, Orange actually is correct. A BOV is NOT required, but it is a type of insurance for a street driven car. Most racing applications do not run them, espcially cars where the throttle plate never closes, as in drag racing a car equipped with an automatic transmission. Saying that, NZXT is correct in stating that it can help drivability and performance, in a sense. So you're BOTH correct, in different senses and applications Everyone needs to stop slinging hate, and read books. A turbo with strong bearings and design can take the abuse from flutter/surge very well. The BW EFR turbos are a prime example.

Also, the AEM F/IC looks like a pretty promising way to tune OBDII cars and keep compliance. It won't allow you to advance timing, but that can be solved by advancing the distributor fully and dialing it back in with the software. It's a pretty neat system, just not as inexpensive and proven as the OBDI tuning stuff.

 

I don't believe you can advance/retard timing manually on an OBDII car? Can you?

 

You can, check the mounting holes of the distributor for elongation and there you have it.

 

I just bought a GSP t3t4 AR70 Turbo, a TiAL wastegate, ebay IC piping and IC. Going to purchase a Stepdown harness tonight along with a ECU. Since the F23 has Vtec, should I buy a p28? they just seem really high in price.

 

You can't advance timing with AEM FIC, but you can retard it.

 

Go junkyard diving. Most places I've found do $20 for any ecu. I've nabbed multiple Honda ECU's at that price(converted the auto's), and flipped them for anywhere between $40-$100.

 

The Ignition timing on OBD2 Honda's is ECU controlled. The OBD2 Accord distributors that I have worked on do not have all three holes elongated. That being said, you could always take a bur bit and elongate the ones that aren't.

In order to change the timing on an OBD2 engine you need to hack (VFAC/FIC) the ignition signal to the ICM.

Only way to pass an OBD scan is to run a piggy back (VFAC/FIC). There is nothing you can do to have an OBD1 ECU read as an OBD2 ECU if your state requires an OBD scan for inspection.

I would suggest that you talk to Chris @ Xenocron and see what your tuning options are through them. Buying anything prior to talking to your tuner could ed up being a waste of money.

 

Also, I'm not 100% certain, but you may lose A/C control and the temp gauge since this is a 6th gen. Give AFAccord a PM and he'll fill you in on it completely, as well as MANY other tips. His build is straight naughty.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/n-fi-afaccords-10-1-comp-turbo-f23-build-restoration-thread-3005902/

 

Why would you buy a tial wastegate and a crap ebay turbo? I just don't understand it.. Its a primary component of the turbocharged setup, heck its the MAIN component of a turbocharged setup. Why skimp out?

Keep your eyes out on the marketplace, ebay, craigslist, etc. people sell them anywhere from $50.00 to $100.00.

 

You can get yourself an auto P06 and convert it to manual and vtec fairly easily. If you know how to solder and buy electronics components. You can chip/modify a Honda ECU. There are tutorials/DIYs all over the internet. PGMFI.org is the best place for Honda ECU modification information.

 

Thanks ghost, ill look into it. And the reason why i have a Godspeed turbo is because my friend sold me the turbo/WG/intercooler and piping for 175, its from his old civic build. no shaft play or anything, he just parted out the civic and is daily driving his mustang.

 

wanting injectors today, anyone have reccomendations? i dont know how they work (other then squirt gas into the engine lol) i dont ever plan on seeing 300hp so slightly bigger then stock would be good? f23 motor.

 

560cc Mitsubishi Evolution pink tops cheap and work very well! I am currently running them on my setup! Although you will either have to bore out the O-ring at the base of the manifold or buy a kit, which I did. ~$15.00 with new upper O-rings as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Oem-Evo-IX-9-Fuel-Injectors-Lancer-Mitsubishi-Stock-560cc-/161057232604?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item257fc256dc&vxp=mtr

 

damn, i wanted this build to be UNDER 1k, looks like its going well past it. didnt know injectors were 100+ next time i do a project, i need to do more research... lol
Edit: my friend who sold my the Turbo stuff is also dropping off injectors for me, they were off his 2000 integra build. I dont know which ones yet but ill let you know when i get them. he's giving them to me and told me when im ready to put everythign in to go to him not a shop. pretty excited. Im sure ill learn more with him then a shop.

 

I'm not sure, but I believe the Injectors used from 98+ are high impedence. RDX injectors may drop right in, but you could go pretty far past their limits depending on your power goals. Injector Dynamics injectors are pretty flippin' hot right now, Bosch based and kick all kinds of ***.

 

You could also install resistors, or wire up a resistor box with a soldering gun, solder, heat shrink tubing, and a lil' knowledge!

 

having trouble finding a manifold, and my exhaust is like 0-00-0 right? i have the 4 cylinder f23. i just dont know what comes after the f23a or b? not sure.