98 Accord starting issue (fuel pressure related?)
98 Accord 4cyl 5 spd with 283k miles and it is stock.
It stalled while cruising down a hill but was able to start again while coasting. It was idling but did not want to and had no power. I parked and let it idle for about 5 minutes and seemed to have cleared up. I was able to make it about 15 minutes down the road where I needed to stop for some groceries. After picking up a few things, it would not start again. My brother was able to limp it closer to home several hours later but we ended up having to tow it home from there.
I replaced a number of items the last being the fuel pressure regulator and it cranked right up. My dad drove it about 20 minutes down the interstate and it did the same it had done to me previously. He was able to start it again while coasting too then stopped for gas. It would not start again after getting gas. This is where I am at right now.
I have replaced the pump/strainer, pump housing/filter, drained the fuel, blew the lines out, replaced ICM, replaced igntion switch, replaced FPR again, checked the main relay (no visible issues and tested ok), cleaned rail and injectors/screens, and cleaned throttle body.
Here is my current hang up. When I test the pressure directly from the pump (hard line at the firewall old school method) is primes at 85 psi. When I test the pressure as outlined in Helms, it primes at 10 psi. It seems as if the FPR is allowing too much fuel to pass making for low pressure. I have tried two new and two used FPR's with all the same result.
What am I missing?
It stalled while cruising down a hill but was able to start again while coasting. It was idling but did not want to and had no power. I parked and let it idle for about 5 minutes and seemed to have cleared up. I was able to make it about 15 minutes down the road where I needed to stop for some groceries. After picking up a few things, it would not start again. My brother was able to limp it closer to home several hours later but we ended up having to tow it home from there.
I replaced a number of items the last being the fuel pressure regulator and it cranked right up. My dad drove it about 20 minutes down the interstate and it did the same it had done to me previously. He was able to start it again while coasting too then stopped for gas. It would not start again after getting gas. This is where I am at right now.
I have replaced the pump/strainer, pump housing/filter, drained the fuel, blew the lines out, replaced ICM, replaced igntion switch, replaced FPR again, checked the main relay (no visible issues and tested ok), cleaned rail and injectors/screens, and cleaned throttle body.
Here is my current hang up. When I test the pressure directly from the pump (hard line at the firewall old school method) is primes at 85 psi. When I test the pressure as outlined in Helms, it primes at 10 psi. It seems as if the FPR is allowing too much fuel to pass making for low pressure. I have tried two new and two used FPR's with all the same result.
What am I missing?
Buy a real fuel pressure testing kit and test it the correct way. The best kit I've seen is $20 from Harbor Freight.
If you do a search on my name and "fuel pressure tester" i have the howto on how to set it up.
However, I very much doubt your issue is fuel pump related. My first guess is main relay. They are hard to test properly as it only takes a minute or so after the car dies and before the solder readjusts itself that you have time to test it and it's not easy.
If you do a search on my name and "fuel pressure tester" i have the howto on how to set it up.
However, I very much doubt your issue is fuel pump related. My first guess is main relay. They are hard to test properly as it only takes a minute or so after the car dies and before the solder readjusts itself that you have time to test it and it's not easy.
When I say that I tested it "as outlined in Helms", that means I tested it the "correct way." I have a Snap-on fuel pressure tester and the correct adapter.
The pressure is 10 psi when tested the correct way.
The pressure is 10 psi when tested the correct way.
If you tested it the "correct way" "as outlined in the Helm" you would have a regulated and an unregulated psi amount.
So try again and let us know what your results are.
So try again and let us know what your results are.
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It does not idle long enough to be able to pull the vacuum line to get a reading. If it does start, it stutters and falls all over itself.
Tonight it ran long enough to move it into the shop and idled for a few minutes without issue but of course i did not have the gauge hooked up. After that, it went right back to the same issue.
I tried another main relay tonight and it did not make a difference. I also checked to see if the injectors are leaking but they are not.
Tonight it ran long enough to move it into the shop and idled for a few minutes without issue but of course i did not have the gauge hooked up. After that, it went right back to the same issue.
I tried another main relay tonight and it did not make a difference. I also checked to see if the injectors are leaking but they are not.
Pull the oxygen sensor connector and see if it will idle fine. If it doesn't, put it back and then test for ohms across the coolant temperature sensor under the distributor...will be the two prong sensor....should be 2000-2500 ohms with cold engine/coolant and 180-250 with car warmed up.
Also check the spark plugs. Look for something different from one than the other 3.
Also check the spark plugs. Look for something different from one than the other 3.
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Squatch
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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Sep 18, 2013 11:57 PM



