I am going to start my CRX after 4 years. It has been sitting outside under a carport for about 4 years. Before I parked it I did change the oil. I started a swap on it B18B. Just never got time to finish it up.

Also on another note, the engine came out of a auto and its with a 5spd trans. Do I have to change the Intake Manifold. Because when I fired it up last, it reved up to 4K RPM. But all the vacuum lines were not hooked up properly yet.

Please any advise would be appreciated.

 

I would crank the engine with a battery charger on it for at least a full minute or longer and disconnect the ignition so that the oil goes through the whole engine before you start it..

 

the bold is why it was reving that high.

i wouldn't do exactly what crxchicken said to do. first unhook the injectors, and don't let it crank for a min. more like 2-3 tries 10-20secs.

other then that, don't be surprised if the gas in the gas tank has gone bad unless you treated it with something like stabil.

 

Ya he is right
But on top of unplugging the Injectors I would also pull the spark plugs as well put a few drops of trang fluid in the combustion chamber to help with the dry start as well pour some new oil over the cams while before cranking just be sure u bult oil presure before firing up
Three is a trick to priming your oil pump if u don't mind the work take off the car take the front housing of and pack with protolium jelly to help with priming ( full tank of new gas too

 

Change the timing belt! I bought a civic a few years back, it was sitting 4-5 years also. I I'd use fresh gas, but my timing belt blew within a week of driving it

 

Doesn't Allways mean it went bad from sitting they should be changed every 100k or so anyways

 

i have the same thing going, but It will have a new head,new fuel system etc, Ive never heard of having issues with a Honda oil pump priming, crank it until a little oil pressure shows on the gauge, my main concern is crap in the gas tank, I guess I'll pull it and wash it out, maby bead blast the brake rotors and drums, my timing belt was almost new when I started working on it, most parts will be new, so they wont be a concern, the only difference is mine has been in a garage, all the brake parts were nearly new, but the fluid will have to be flushed, all suspension parts were nearly new, so they should be ok

 

Sounds like u should be ok let us know how it turns out !! Start up video maybe?

 

as soon as I get it done, not done yet but about to go at it big time to finish it within a few months

 

You are wrong sir.

If an engine sits in "exactly" the same position for 4 years +, that timing belt is aging with it bend in one specific shape.....as opposed to an engine which is cranked over regular and stopped at different positions allowing it to last 100k

When the belt went in that last Si of mine, it had only 50k on it.....and get where it ripped? The tight 180 degree bend at the bottom of the engine where it wraps around the gear behind the crank pulley! The belt looked like a ripped piece of celery, and even went back to the original shape of that tight bend after removed from the engine

 

good point, well i have a new one in a box sitting on the shelf

 

pretty sure timing belt is change every 100k, or 5yrs.

 

105k/7yrs

 

Normal operating conditions guys. When you park a car for extended time, all bets are off. Drain the tank, new fuel, new oil, new filters, new belts, inspect all the hoses...hope for the best.

 

I got bigger problem, after I hooked everything up and went to start it. Engine was all locked up. I used PB blast, it broke free in one day, then I would spin it slowly a little every couple of hours. Now the starter won't turn over. I think it might be my old battery gonna get both checked at autozone. I don't feel like draining the fuel, its almost half a tank, and where would I put all that fuel. Any suggestions what I can do about the fuel, any additives or something.

 

You don't have an option.
The fuel needs to come out if it went stale.
If you manage to start you engine using really stale fuel, it will run horrible and you run the risk of damage due to detonation.

I suggest you get a 5 gallon tank from an autopart store and put your old fuel in there.
Then put 5 gallons fresh gas to dilute whatever is left in your tank.
Most part stores take old oil and fluids so they may be able to take your old fuel too.
Then you can get rid of it all.
If you can't find a place to get rid of it then just mix in a gallon with a half tank or more of new gas to get rid of it.

 

Is there way to get your fuel checked if its good or stale. Like can I siphon some out and get it checked or check it some how to see if its good or need to drain it.

 

Also, I think some of that PB blast might have leaked into the engine, will it hurt it if I run it like that for some time and then do an oil change. Maybe just long enough to get everything tuned in and running right.

 

Do you know how to siphon old gas?

 

To siphon gas all you need a hose, suck on it and try not to swallow the gas. What ever you are siphoning has to be high and siphon it low, you need gravity to make the fluid drain down.

There is a drain plug on the fuel tank by the way.

 

The stock tank has a drain plug. If you didn't use fuel stabilizer like stabil, it needs to come out. Change the oil too, don't run it with PB blaster in there.