Koni Regulars vs. Neuspeed Konis
I found neuspeed konis for $575, and there not much more than regulars. Are there any other differences between the 2 besides the additional perches on the neuspeeds. Also those of you with the neuspeed versions. what are the additional perch measurments? i know the regulars is 25mm lower on the front and 15mm on the rears. What are they for neuspeeds? I will be pairing either of the 2 with H&R sports. Thanks.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,067
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
I found neuspeed konis for $575, and there not much more than regulars. Are there any other differences between the 2 besides the additional perches on the neuspeeds. Also those of you with the neuspeed versions. what are the additional perch measurments? i know the regulars is 25mm lower on the front and 15mm on the rears. What are they for neuspeeds? I will be pairing either of the 2 with H&R sports. Thanks.
I found neuspeed konis for $575, and there not much more than regulars. Are there any other differences between the 2 besides the additional perches on the neuspeeds. Also those of you with the neuspeed versions. what are the additional perch measurments? i know the regulars is 25mm lower on the front and 15mm on the rears. What are they for neuspeeds? I will be pairing either of the 2 with H&R sports. Thanks.
It has more slots which are closer together, so you can't go any lower than w/ the regular Koni adjustables, but you do have more options in between. Also the shock body is 20mm shorter, which gives you that much more suspension travel.
It has more slots which are closer together, so you can't go any lower than w/ the regular Koni adjustables, but you do have more options in between. Also the shock body is 20mm shorter, which gives you that much more suspension travel.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,067
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
If the rod was shorter, suspension travel would remain the same or actually be less.
By having a shorter casing, you get more suspension travel. Think about when the shock is fully compressed, on the bumpstop. Take away 20mm from the top of the casing, and you can compress the shock another 20mm. That's how it works.
By having a shorter casing, you get more suspension travel. Think about when the shock is fully compressed, on the bumpstop. Take away 20mm from the top of the casing, and you can compress the shock another 20mm. That's how it works.
If the rod was shorter, suspension travel would remain the same or actually be less.
By having a shorter casing, you get more suspension travel. Think about when the shock is fully compressed, on the bumpstop. Take away 20mm from the top of the casing, and you can compress the shock another 20mm. That's how it works.
By having a shorter casing, you get more suspension travel. Think about when the shock is fully compressed, on the bumpstop. Take away 20mm from the top of the casing, and you can compress the shock another 20mm. That's how it works.
http://www.gprparts.com/neuspeed/koinishock_price.html
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I've had my Eibach Sportlines for 5+ years going on 6... and my Koni Yellows for 3+ years (going on 4 years this summer)... never had any problems w/ the perches rusting out, or the C-clip failing and dropping the vehicle or anything... no problems at all
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