My 92 MT EX accord with 224k miles has been sporadically loosing power / hesitating / bogging when driving somewhere around 2800 - 3200 RPM.. Usually when this occurs this is accompanied by the CEL coming on. I have pulled code 43 from the ODB1.. This always has happened after the car has warmed up, and been driving for 5-10 minutes. When it hesitates it pops back to life in a few seconds. If I turn off the ignition and back on the CEL is off and stays that way for a decent while. The engine idles slightly rough, but it's done this for years and I've assumed it was due to the cars age.

Hopefully Related History:

Maybe 10 years ago I replaced the fast idle valve. At the time idling the engine would lope from 500 RPM up to 3-4k then repeat the cycle.

About 2-3 years ago I replaced the O2 sensor. I can't recall what brand it was as it seems after searching that Bosch are terrible. The code I got then I can't recall as it's been too long but it was specific to the O2 sensor not 43. I all the sudden was getting terrible mileage; I replaced the O2 and all was good. It's possible I have a Bosch in there; there aren't any visible markings on that I can see at this point.

More recently I was having issues with it loosing power and stalling generally on acceleration; After stalling it would generally not start again.. I tried replacing the coil which had no effect. I replaced the igniter and the problem went away. My distributor was also leaking oil, I replaced the O-Ring which helped some, but eventually I replaced the whole distributor since the oil leak wouldn't stop. I also was having some issues with the tach going all over the place because one of the wires insulation in the distributor had been eaten up by oil. The replacement distributor fixed this problem too. (My repair with electrical tape worked 99.9% of the time)

On this site someone posted the CEL 43 flow chart (https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/92-accord-cel-code-43-a-3053533/) but the first question is "does it affect drivability" which I'd say yes. The section I am to go to wasn't posted.

I also checked the O2 sensor today and it was covered in oil - I am guessing from the hemorrhage of oil from the distributor previously. I cleaned it out and ran some errands and the CEL still came on. I just wiped it out as best I could and didn't use contact cleaner as I didn't have any on hand.

I am not opposed to changing the O2 sensor but the only posts I have found on this site or others on the internet that seem to match my problem none of them have any resolution. Most of the other 43 threads I have read drivability isn't affected or it happens at a lower RPM and specifically at acceleration which those all suggest cleaning the EGR ports.

 

I realized I didn't any specific questions when I made my post so here goes..

Has anyone else experienced this sort of problem?

Can using the wrong brand or bad O2 sensor cause drivability problems like I am experiencing? I am assuming (maybe incorrectly) that if the O2 sensor were bad i'd just get poor gas mileage?

Does anyone have the rest of the Honda Tech CEL43 flowchart that they can legally share?

Does anyone have any suggestions on where I might start next?

 

My O2 sensor failure a few years ago caused driveablity problems. If I weren't so deft with manual transmissions and finding creative ways to signal and get the car off the road, I probably would have gotten hit. An ignition miss causes a sputter and bogging, lugging sensation. A bad O2 causes that but also some big lurches where power seems to drop to zero and then suddenly burst. That is the engine choking under load on the bad air-fuel mix caused by the bad oxygen sensor. Don't forgot to also check basic stuff. Bad plug wires (even if they "look" great) have been proven the cause of many running problems

 

My initial guess is an exhaust leak. First things first...disconnect the oxygen sensor and run the car without it and see if the issue subsides. Of course the check engine light will come on for the oxygen sensor. Just ignore it temporarily.

If the issue subsides, check for exhaust leaks by seafoaming or have a mechanic with a smoke machine do it. After finding and fixing the leak, replace the oxygen sensor.

Don't half *** this job. If you ignore the exhaust leak checking and there is a leak you will be going through this a lot more.

If you're certain you don't have an exhaust leak next thing would be fuel pressure is off so then test for fuel pressure. You can get a $20 kit from Harbor Freight that has the correct fitting for our car.

 

I finally got a chance to disconnect the O2 sensor and drive the car around.. I drove maybe 20-30 minutes and all seemed well.. I am sure I am getting mileage that looks bad compared to an SUV, but it seems smooth so far.. I am going to drive it a bit more with the O2 sensor disconnected but thus far everything points to the O2 sensor going batty..

It seemed to idle a bit smoother too.. I will post any updates after I drive it around again..

Thanks for the feedback I didn't think about the O2 causing a bad fuel mix and causing sporadic loss of power..

 

Sounds almost like my 1992 accord(you can look at my previous posts on this matter) and no its not fixed. Holmnesnmanny, Still haven't done the fuel pressure check mainly because it seems to be running ok even though I am still getting the code. Cletus2k, the new 02 swaps would work work for me for approx a month(but not this last time) Thought the oil leak was fouling the 02 but the leaks are fixed now. Hope you have better luck. I definitely second doing the seafoam thing. I had leaks but they are after the 02 sensor. Maybe if you can gets yours figured out mine will get fixed too.lol

 

Just re-reading your post.. You mean if disconnecting the O2 sensor solves the drivability problem then check for exhaust leaks? Or did you mean if the issue does NOT subside..

 

With the oxygen sensor disconnected and the car running good this means the oxygen sensor circuit should be looked at. While oxygen sensors do go bad and fail, a lot of times this is brought on faster by an exhaust leak. You should have a shop check for an exhaust leak if someone has a smoke machine or if you know how to seafoam you can sea foam your engine while having someone look for an exhaust leak(via white smoke leaking out) of anywhere from the exhaust manifold to behind the oxygen sensor. If none is found just replace the oxygen sensor and see if that fixes it. Only buy a Denso oxygen sensor.