Hi Guys, I am trying to do Headgasket on my 1994 Honda Accord EX F22B1 with 233K miles on it.

I took the head to a machine shop today to get it checked before I put everything back together.

Couple of questions:

1- Head needs resurfacing, because of the car running hot.
2- One of the exhaust valve is cracked/burned(#4), need to be replaced.

A)Now, if I just replace '2' exhaust valves(for #4), cleaning and resurfacing, it will cost me $100 at the machine shop.

B)If I replace all the valves, seals, cleaning and resurfacing will cost me $320 at the machine shop.

Car has 233K and I want to use as a beater, so cheapest option and route I wanna take.

What do you guys suggest and advise? If I go with "A" how long you think the car will last(miles)? Any other tip or idea or suggestion?

Thanks for your help.

 

I say go with option B if you're going to keep the car for a long time. You never know when you are gonna need it. but if you want to sell the car as soon as you get it out the shop the go with option A.

 

Of course the best option is 'B'.

But like I said, I am trying to save money and keep the car for next 2 years, if I go with 'A', will the car be able to survive for next 2 or so years?

If you guys say, 'No' then I have no other option than to choose 'B'

 

Thanks again for the reply.

So in your opinion it's not a terrible or bad idea to just go with option 'A', i-e replace cracked/burned exhaust valve and next to it, clean and resurface the head and put everything back, correct?

Trying to save money, but at the same time trying to play little bit safe, don't wanna do everything from scratch in next 6 months.

Also, just FYI...

Compression #1=195, #2=190, #3=185, #4=155(Cracked/Burned Exhaust valve)

Leakdown #1= 16%, #2=15%, #3=20%, #4=35%(Cracked/Burned Exhaust valve) leaking between #3 and #4.

Thanks again for all the help.

 

No one is going to really be able to answer that question - we can't see/inspect the others that are "ok".

What did the machine shop say about them?

If you go with A, be sure to keep up with valve adjustments.

 

Thanks again for your help and as always precious tip

How about the the compression and leakdown numbers? Because they are exactly telling the issue with #4, which has cracked exhaust valve.

So machine shop guy is saying, since car has so many miles, it would be safe to just replace Exhaust valves in a pair for the problematic cylinder(#4). No need to do seals or anything, since the wear on all the seals will be same or almost even. Because if we replace only 2 seals for the new exhaust valves, it will not be a good idea.

So either replace all or just stick to the problematic one.

My thought or idea is just to replace (#4) both Exhaust valves, cleaning and resurfacing the head(Option "A" from my previous post) while leaving everything as is.

He also said exactly the same thing, to do a valve adjustment after putting the head back on the car

Do you think car will last for long or I will be again crying after 6 months by doing this?

Thanks again for all the help

 

A complete rebuild for $320 is your best bet. But you should only put more money into this engine IF the block tests fine for warpage. You need a set of precision feeler gauges and to test to the block. If that tests within specs then you can have the head rebuilt.