Hey. I just wanted to make a thread about this since people have been on my case about it on here.

I have just about completed the swap but there have been technical difficulties I am still trying to figure out. The system won't bleed and won't build up pressure. I think its my master cylinder, I checked the lines for leaks and find no leaks. I can hear a whirring sound where the CMC is as I am pumping the clutch.

It is a junkyard CMC, and the car it came from was not in a wreck ( you know what that means). So it is very likely that the owner who junked it had mechanical issues with the car, very likely a bad CMC. What do you think?
I did replace the SC with a new one.


I have pics, should have more though. This was a ***** to get the transmission to go onto the engine.

A whole lot of work was don, I replaced the 3 main engine mounts, that was a pain in the *** cause I couldn't get the conversion mount bolt to thread took me like 2 hours. Then the rear mount too. After that when I went to put the castle nut for the ball joint on it cross threaded (cause I hit the stud with a hammer when I was trying to removed the knuckle, I know stupid mistake), so I forced another nut on there with the impact.... I went through many pitfalls and trials in this build, the hard part is now over.

 

Im going to be doing this also but im going to pay someone to take the old trans off and put the new one on lol....I dont have the time or space to do the swap myself ill need to have it complete in one day. Im going to buy everything i can new so i wont run into any problems at the shop,only thing used will be ecu,shifter assembly,clutch pedal,half shaft and transmission,bracket for the mount. New stuff will be Cv axles,clutch kit,flywheel and bolts,slave and master with stainless lines no dampener....I already have a oem starter used so ill chance that....But i hope to get it drivable in one day so i can get back and forth to work and do stuff like reverse lights and full brake pedals etc... slowly after....Im going to get the holes drilled out for the clutch pedal soon and get the brake pedal cut and git that out of the way....



And good luck with the rest of your 5 speed swap

 

Well god damn its about time. Now don't 10x questions a week on the forum!

Glad to see its getting somewhere.

 

I just got wiring everything and replaced the master cylinder... Everything is working awesome! The car shifts beautifully, feels so much more alive now its not even funny. I lost traction pulling out too, never in an auto could I do that. Its much more nimble aroung corners as well, I think those beefy 5 speed mounts help that out too.

I have a coolant leak though and my car overheated for a very brief period of time, this was after I peeled out. I had to stop and find some water, thankfully I had a jug with me and found a spicket at this gas station which was closed (nobody there to help me). I don't think I blew my head gasket, cause just a month ago I allowed my engine to overheat for minutes on end and it never blew the head gasket.

The ECU i'm using is a MT Pt3, and the car feels even faster than it was before with the auto P12...I'll put a P12 MT ECU in it i bet it'll be a lot faster. I would like to find out how to convert the P12 ECU to manual.

The wiring was not hard, all I did was wire the big black wires and wire park... The only problem I am having is my wiring for the reverse lights, they don't work. I don't know what is wrong but I could be that one of the wires is defective. I would like some help on this.

 

I fixed the reverse lights and the coolant leak. Turns out there were 2 green and black wires on the shift selector.

There is a funny problem with my throttle rotor though, when I pressed it with my hand the throttle cable fell off and got stuck on the rotor so that the car revved up to about 5-6000 rpms. I flipped out at this point and didn't know what was wrong and went to me car and turned it off... I was worried I blew my engine but it seems not to have affected performance.

The problem is the throttle cable won't retract when I press the rotor with my hand; it will retract if I press it with my foot though.

I made a video about my swap and this problem, see if you can figure out what is wrong with the rotor... Its still uploading.

 

Here's a video of the rotor and general update on the swap,




And here's a video of me driving and doing some pulls,

"

 

Instead of buying more factory ECU's why don't you just invest in a P28 and tune the dang thing?

 

I can't do it if it costs too much, my limit right now is about $200. What I really need to invest in is some tires for my rims and a paint job, I have 3 different colors or pain on my car! I replaced to doors (maroon) and painted the roof with brown rustoleum cause it was peeling and starting to rust.

 

you can get a chipped p28 for under that. Just start looking around for people selling em.

 

I think he was more hinting towards the tune. But yes a chipped P28 can be picked up for about ~$50.00.

 

I swapped in the auto P12 it seems to run just fine, no cel and not idle problems.

Do you think you could tell me why when I press the throttle rotor with my hand the throttle cable falls off and fails to retract like normal when you press the accelerator pedal?
My first video asks about this. I got freaked out by this when my car was running cause somehow the throttle body got stuck open and shot the revs up to 5000 rpms. I ran to my car to turn it off cause I didn't know what was wrong. I thought I blew my engine up, thankfully I didn't.


I did mess with the T cable both on the rotor and on the accelerator pedal, I took them off. What could it be?


Another thing, my clutch pedal has good pressure but for some reason even after I adjust it it feels like there's just a spring bouncing it back rather loosely. Like, it has nothing to do with the hydrolic aspect of it but it seems to be the assist spring. Is it normal for it to have movement like that? To explain it better, the pedal moves sloppily and easily for about an inch or more before it gets stiff.

If anyone can answer these questions it would be great.


EDIT:

Nevermind I found out what was wrong with the clutch pedal. Its fixed now. Rotor?

 

First of all, it doesn't spin, it isn't a bloody rotor. Its called a throttle plate. Second of course it'll fall out of you operate it at the actuated end. Without any tension on the cable (which is provided by your pedal when you press it), it'll fall out or out of the groove. If you're having a lack of throttle cable tension or response, adjust it using the two nuts on the throttle cable stay on the manifold, if it cannot be brought up to tension check your connection on the accelerator pedal. If that proves to be good replace the throttle cable.

 

OKay but before when I pressed it by hand it didn't fall off. Something awry.

 

Throttle rotor, yes that is what they're called. The throttle plate is the thing connected to the throttle rotor. Throttle plate and throttle rotor are two different things.




Read em and weep,

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-prelude-4/throttle-rotor-328573/

 

Alright, I had it in my mind that you were sticking your hand IN the throttle body and that you were calling it a rotor.

EDIT: I was going to go onto why you shouldnt stick your hand in a TB (especially if its motor driven) but considering you never stuck your hand in it, have a good day. >_>

 

No man, you're confused. I was talking about the rotor. Take a chill pill.

 

You guys take this **** way to seriously. Refuckinglax, its a car forum. The fact that you think you know everything about them makes you that much less content with them. That's why you always want more this more that. For all we know aliens could have given the technology for creating cars. Personally I think it was God. But you'll never come to realize the amazing qualities of the automobile, because you have already judged them as if you knew exactly what they are. By this you get no satisfaction from them, and so you take it out on me.

 

EDIT: Because of your consistent thread making filled with 20 millions questions of which eighty percent of them are repeats, no wonder I'm inclined to think your boneheaded enough to stick your finger in a TB. Along with calling numerous things wrong names and a lack of common sense.

 

 

okay, you guys are right. But how much experience in working on cars do you all have? I don't have much experience so its no wonder I ask so many questions. This is my first car for crying out loud.

You guys are exaggerating anyways, you're like a bunch of hungry wolves on a lone sheep. Hypocrites if you ask me. If you don't have anything nice to say don't say it at all.


EDIT:

And you guys are not even going to answer my question, some Honda buffs you are.

 

I give you mad props for DIY. I dont have the patients or the knowledge to take out a transmission lol....

 

Especially with our cars its incredibly straight forward. Axles out, ~15 bolts out, thing slides right down. Then you slide the manual on, etc.

 

Unbolting or bolting up a trans on the accord is fairly simple, I always found the biggest challenge to be jacking the car high enough to get space to move to the trans into place.
That being said the OP should get some credit for attempting the swap himself, especially seeing as it is his first ride.

 

Sliding the manual on was the worst part, as also was putting on the conversion mounts. I saw your turbo numbers, they looked great man. How much did it all cost you for the tune?


How long have you all been working on cars anyways, I am rookie still not a pro. It doesn't mean you should look down or talk down to me as if you're better.

 

Just remember Murphy's Law lol, congrats on getting that transmission in.

(Whatever can go wrong, will go wrong)