Guys I am really sunk and need some help. I am out of town visiting my parents, so I don't have my usual tool bay. I was driving my 1991 CRX SI, when it suddenly got harder to shift, then the shift **** just dropped. My shift rod thing, number 13 in the picture below had come out of it's support. I should mention that the shift **** would move excessively when I would let on or off the gas for awhile. Also it had been doing this thing where the car would lurch like the clutch was grabbing then letting go rapidly if I didn't let the clutch out just right. I put the number 13 rod, I guess the shifter rod? back in the support and was able to make it halfway back before it fell out again, but drove the rest of the way supporting it with my hand. The lurching problem grew much worse, but it could have been because of the obvious unfavorable conditions I was driving under, so I wasn't at the top of my clutch control game obviously. Then to top everything off the engine began to overheat and there was steam coming up from the passenger side, it did not look headgasket-esque, but more of coolant spilling onto a hot engine-esque.

image hosting tynipic

 

Sounds like you may have some bad motor/trans. mounts, which would allow excessive movement. I'd start by checking the condition of all mounts and replacing any bad ones.

 

You are right the bolt that held the rear motor mount to the transmission had slipped through the cracking mount. I believe that movement, plus my leaking lower radiator hose, probably getting coolant on the clutch/flywheel caused the clutch issues. I will get a new bushing for the shifter rod and a new radiator hose. For the mount, I know y'all will probably yell at me but I think I am going to temporarily JB weld the cracking metal, and get a washer and try to get that bolt back on, so I can get back home where I have my plethora of tools. Let me know what y'all think.

 

JB weld might buy you some time but you will need to replace whatever cracked.
There are a number of hoses on the passenger that could be leaking, I would inspect all of them after you replace that radiator hose.

 

I am going to pull that radiator hose and test it for leaks first, and hopefully it's the only one that was leaking. I do know for sure though that it was coolant that was leaking. I also added to that last post, I am going to have to JB weld the bushing for the shifter rod too, this car is going to be barely hanging on.

 

Energy suspension makes a kit that has the rear bushing and the torque rod bushing,all the factory shifter bushings are discontinued

 

Do you know if that energy suspension kit still requires that mounting metal bracket thing? Mines seems to be bent, I straightened it as best as I could using a vice grip, but, just wondering if I need to order a new one if I order that energy suspension kit.

 

The energy suspension kit replaces 16 and 14. If you are talking about 17 i think its disconued, i had a horrible time rebuilding the shifter on my 86 accord as most parts are discontued most of these early hondas share the same shifter parts

 

The same energy suspension kit that fits civic/crx also fits my accord, many of the pieces and parts are identical the main difference is the length of the shift rod, its. Attachment at the transmission and the length of the torque rod,

 

Yes I am talking about 17, is it necessary to use with the energy suspension kit? The picture i saw looked like it didnt have the holes to attach 17.

 

yes the entire shifter assembly floats on the 17 bushing everything slides back and forth as the transmission twists under torque, if you have a bad motor mount the engine could twist enough to yank it right out of the bushing, the metal bracket holds the bushing in place, I can see if I have one later, I possibly might have a spare, you can get that metal piece form a bunch of different Hondas, I know the bushing is identical to the one on third generation accords, so the metal piece should be the same, it has a bolt hole at each end that holds it, the bolts go through the metal piece and through a hole at each end of the bushing

 

there also should be two metal bushings in the old rubber bushing, you need those, they are also discontinued, they go in the new bushing

 

this thread should help the number of the kit is also in here somewhere, ignore the shitty exhaust, this was before I build my current system http://www.3geez.com/forum/performan...k-again-4.html

 

Cool, I think I understand, thank you so much for your help! I will let y'all know how everything goes.

 

just make sure you have the right kit, the torque rod bushing is a PIA to push it, but it's worth the effort, you can see by my thread what happens to these bushings after this many years, the poly also resist everything unlike the rubber

 

Ok, a quick update/ maybe a little more help needed. I made it almost all the way back, then the jb weld gave out, but I was able to hold it the last 5 minutes. My clutch also started slipping on the way back. I have now put the new bushing in, but had to use washers instead of the metal bracket, and adjusted my clutch and took it for a test run. The clutch wasn't slipping anymore, but then on the way back the shifter fell, and the clutch began slipping again. The shifter had slipped out of my new bushing! My plan is to buy a hose clamp and put it over the end of the shift linkage so that it won't slip out again, do you think that will be good?

 

um you need to repair your engine mounts, we need pictures,so we can see whats going on

 

i may have a metal bracket, I hate to part with it, but I can search for a spare later

 

I was told that washers would be just as good, especially because the aftermarket part didn't have the slots for the bracket anyway. I really do appreciate that though! I will go inspect the mounts and get back to you.

 

slot for the bracket? it's exactly like mine and there is no slot, the rear bushing right? the bushing is exactly like mine and it works with the bracket

 

this is how the rear bushing should look with the factory bottom bracket, yours should be identical

 

Yes it is, its not that it wouldn't work, I just am not sure it is necessary. The original bushing had two holes on the ends that tabs on the bracket went into, the bracket on the new bushing really just acts like a washer/weight distribution, but I looked and yes all my mounts are disgusting. I will be looking into purchasing new ones. Until then, do you think the hose clamp on the shift linkage is a bad idea?

 

yes, because it's going to tear up your linkage, you need to fix the issue which are the mounts, and you need the factory steel bracket, because it's supporting the weight of the entire shift assembly, the bushing is probably twisting, there should be two steel bushings that press into the new bushing, by hand, not with a press, those work with the bracket to support the shift assembly

 

That makes sense. I ordered a new bracket off a website (honda parts unlimited), (I needed another part too and so I didnt have to pay shipping twice so it was cheap) I appreciate your offer for your's though! I am going to keep the car garaged until I have a little money, then I will buy the 4 mounts. I am going to probably buy the cheap DEA mounts and also a set of poly inserts, so hopefully that combo will be satisfactory. Thank you so much for all of your help, it was so helpful!

 

do you have the round pieces? sometimes they get lost, it would be a nightmare for me to pull mine as they are under the heat shield, but if I had one to measure I could easily machine a few