Recently I ran into the back of a truck while joy riding. I blew both my tires, ruined the fender and door, and blew both air bags.

At the moment im trying to do the repairs my self and have gotten very little done. I bought new 18' 4x100 rims and tried to instal them today and to my suprise they where not lining up right. I currently have no idea what I should do but at the moment I have it jacked up properly and am ready for any advice on the issue. I will post picture immidiatlely and hopefully this thread will help someone out in the future.

"98 Accord Lx, Coupe, 4 cyl, 2.3L, V-tech, 18' rims (4X100) Wide"

 

4x100? V-tech? Rims? Joyriding?

Leave.

 

 

I'm a huge noob, ill admit it. I came here for your internet humor as well as expertise, poke me with that harsh stick. Still gona post pics, still hoping for help

 

The 6th gen Accords are not 4x100. They are 4x114.3, or 5x114.3 if they are the V6 model.

You need to do research before making purchases. Lesson learned I suppose.

 

when i purchased the car it was from my brother, he put on a wheel kit he purchased, some kit or something but there 4x100 no joke. Here ill post the pics I just took.

 

Old Rims / Size
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Side View

Closer Look at where it pinches

 

Wheel Off (Multiple Angles)

 

 

I hope these pictures help, and i think the rim dude was right. I was told to look for was a 4x100 and they fit great and flush on my other tires, so I may be wrong but they work. Oh I also know that the wheel is off set 40+, at least thats what i was told. I took pictures of the front struts just in case people thought that was the issue and lets face it, im too new to know the difference. I was told that something might be bent so I took as many pictures of the inner workings of the tire as area as I could.

 

If any more pictures will help let me know. I have the car jacked properly so I can take under car shots too

 

Thick skin, has a sense of humor, doesn't rage, and posts pictures of damage...
I think you will be alright.

FWIW, 'joyriding' is a term used when someone takes a vehicle without consent, depending on laws/jursisdictions it has different punishments.
But in general is considered theft. Now if you were just hooning around in the car, well that's different.

On to the tech part...

Wheel bolt patterns.

This wheel is called a multi pattern. Note it has three bolt patterns.
90-02 4cyl Accords have the 4 x 114.3 pattern. It is a rather unusual pattern as most four lug cars are 4 x 100(just about everybody) or 4 x 108mm(mostly Fords, 80s Mustangs).This can be verified with a ruler or tape measure, measure diagonally across the center of two wheel studs, this is your bolt pattern.

I'm not saying your brother didn't change the BP, but the amount of money and work to do such a thing is a bit cost prohibitive or labor intensive.

Looking at your pictures you will need to look at where the radius rod attches to the front core support. The radius rod is what locates the wheel fore/aft. There is enough play in the other components attacments(rubber bushings) that they can be moved about quite a bit without damage incurred. However the lower portion of the front shock(our cars do not have struts) looks to be bent a bit. But that could just be the parrallaxing of the lens.



Note radius rod #6 and the front bushings 27>15>11>14>etc>etc.
These are what locate the lower control arm #7 fore/aft.
This attaches to the front beam...

Part #9.

If the front beam is bent, or shunted back it will affect the front wheel location.

You will need to take pictures from underneath to verify if the front beam has moved back. There will be witness marks where the bolt #20 attaches. This bolt could also be bent as it is inside a large bushing #10, it may require removal to make sure it isn't. You will also want to make sure your core support has not been pushed back. Check the sheetmetal apron between the core support and front shock tower for deformation.


My question to you is...

What are those two dimples in the rotor discs swept area. That is unusual.

 

Radius Rod #6 (Multiple Angles)

 

Part #9, Under view & Bolt 20

 

Found something very curious while taking pictures of the shocks area, seems there something disconnected and a rod is just loose and not attached to anything



(^ I took two pictures and moved it two dif places so you guys could see what im talking about)

 

Thanks btw Mad_Mike I appreciate the detailed overview. I took pictures and am going to take it apart tomorrow if I have the time. I took pictures of the parts you mentioned as well as found something disconnected inside near the shock, took pictures of that too.


Ps, I dont know that the deal is with those two dimples but im going to see what the name of the part is and look it up. Ill update you on it

 

That "disconnected" part is the sway bar end link. Bet the car has sloppy handling with noise from the wheel area.

 

I believe this is the damage we are looking for...

Note how it is bent down at the junction of the front beams arms connection to the rear beam. If you look at the above diagram I posted you can see that it is relatively flat. and there are two bolts #23 that connected the two.

This is am image of the center of the front beam, this bracket and nut bolt is the front engine mount.

Pan more to the left and catch the very end of the front beam #9 in the diagram. Take the camera and have it so the lense is pointing up and take a few blind shots of the under side of the very front corner of the beam.
That corner outside of where the radius rod attaches is where there will be that larger bolt #20 and the isolator/cushion(20>7>10).

If the front beam is the only part damaged you may be able to remove and repair or replace it. If that whole front corner is crushed you will need a frame machine or someone handy with a port a power to pull the corner back out.

The reason the drop link broke(#4/5 in above diagram) is due to the excessive aft movement. When the front lower control was shunted back the endlink was not able to compensate for that much misalignment and popped.

To give you an idea of how far back the centerline of the front wheel is, plumb the busted link, and then measure from the broken end to where it was attached to the sway bar.
Whatever that distance is is most likely how much you have to readjust to bring everything back to spec.

Take a side shot of the front of the car, kind of hard to tell what kind of damage is done to the front end without some context.

 

 

Hey guys, sorry its taken me so long to respond. I've been camping in Laguna with some friends. Cooked a boar on a spic, epic.... Anyways now that im back to real life, i wanted to follow up with the thread. I'm in the process of speaking to frame and axle shops recommended to me by my mechanic "El Cajon Frame & Axle", as soon as I get quotes ill post their prices because I've seen a lot of threads on it.

 

Wide Shot Body Pics "bumper and Right & Left wheel"

 

 

(Inside View of Right Wheel View)

 

(Pan Of #9)