Hey y'all,

I just embarked on swapping in the gauges from a 2007 CBR600RR sportbike.

Reasons for doing this:
-Displays more (and more accurate) information than the SI-R cluster I had before. Ie: numerical coolant temp, digital speed, digital fuel level.
-Smaller cluster overall, so I may be able to fit other gauges on either side of the main cluster under the dash bonnet with a little modification.
-Haven't seen it done before.

I'll post up a full write up when I figure out the bugs.

With my preliminary hook-up, everything functions as desired except the coolant temp and speedo.

I'm thinking that I'm going to have to pull them both from the signal wire going to the ecu but other than that, it's looking fairly easy to get it working. Here's some initial information. Again, I'll post up a complete write up as soon as I verify everything works.

Cost wise, gauge cost me $180 off eBay, pigtail cost me $35 off a motorcycle salvage site. So, about the same price as an SI-R cluster if you can find one and a bit more functional...potentially.

 

Pics in car?

 

Here are a couple rough pics. Once actually in place and mounted, it will be shrouded with ABS with room for gauges on the sides. Coolant signal from the ECU worked out great. Still figuring out the Speedo.

 

Wow I will def be keeping an eye on this thread... That will def look amazing in there.. Cant wait to see final results.. Very brave endeavor my good sir.. I hate electrical!!!!!

 

Heres a video of the maiden function check. So far, so good!

 

New challenge: Build an engine that will use the entire range of the tach

 

Ha! Well, I rev up to 9K so I'm not wasting too much space

Still need to figure out the Speedo. The 600RR VSS gets its power from the gauge itself so I'm thinking I may need to run that power line to the VSS so the pulsed voltage signal is one that the gauge is built to recognize. I know the car uses a 5v power source. Not sure about the motorcycle but if it's a 7v source, that would explain why the gauge isn't recognizing the pulse...possibly.

I also want to set up the Neutral light on the gauge to turn on with VTEC. I'll take the cover off of the gauge and mod the signal to show a "V" instead of the standard "N" (for neutral).

Also, I'm going to put in blue LEDs for the backlight instead of that crap-*** orange color.

Turn signals and high beam notification all work.

Progress, it's a beautiful thing.

 

wow this is amazing

 

this is super cool!

 

Freggin cool.

 

Interesting..sub'd

 

I was hoping to finish up a few more things but Virginia decided it wants to rain... soon!

 

Maybe...

 

May need a speedo healer depending on how the signal gets interpreted. The main battle I'm having now is getting a good signal, period. The Speedo Healer would come in handy regardless, if I decide to change tire/wheel sizes. It'd be nice to be able to get an accurate speed regardless of setup.

 

So, this whole process has been a fun learning experience. Here's something that I should have anticipated: The fuel tank on a CBR is 4.(something) gallons. Therefore, it makes sense that the fuel level gauge is set up for readings of a tank that size. Just found out that the gauge will read as full until you reach the 4 gallon mark and the it registers as it should. No biggie and should be easy enough to counter with a resistor if I even feel it necessary. ...The more you know *rainbow*

 

Okay, so the speedo is now connected properly. I just purchased Healtech's Speedo Healer do adjust the signal. I really didn't want to buy anything else for this but it is the simplest way to get the job done. Another $100... I'm committed now, ha. Once that gets in, it'll be easy to hook up and calibrate. With the signal as is and utilizing a GPS, the speedo reads 4mph while I'm going 58mph...haha. Quite a bit off but still well within the Speedohealer's adjustment ranges.

The only thing left to fix after that is the ECT gauge. It's reading about 80 *F too hot. I'm thinking an inline resistor to compensate should do the trick. It's hard to say exactly as many auto thermistors aren't completely linear. As long as the temp sensor isn't dual range it shouldn't be an issue. It's surprisingly difficult to find exact functional ohm/voltage/temp ranges for these sensor online. The search continues.

Worst case, I'll buy a new sensor...probably need to anyways...and take some of my own measurements to determine how much I need to compensate. Getting close to figuring out everything

 

Maybe just put a potentiometer inline and do a few adjustments for the ECT.
When you are happy with the setting, remove the potentiometer, measure it's resistance, and add the proper value resistors.

 

Dude, genius! I think I'll just permanently attach the potentiometer. I found a few that would fit this quite well. Thanks for the idea, man. You probably saved me a few headaches, haha.

 

Tomorrow, I hope to mock up the backing plastic and figure out how exactly to mount this and have it look decent. Today, however, I made a box to adjust my ECT and Fuel level signals. I've yet to hook it up but it is completed...hopefully it works. Below are some pics of what it is:

 

good job on just going out and doing something and figuring things out for yourself and not asking for somebody to hold your hand along the way

 

I am electronic tech by trade. I work for Samsung. It's good to see some "old-school" tech work. The bread board made me a little misty with nostalgia.

 

Well, good news is the pots are functioning as desired. I'm going to need more range of adjustment for the ECT. I got a 10K ohm cermet pot. Only brought it down 40 degrees. Need another 30-ish...haha. So, 20K should be enough to play with.

 

Fwiw i believe the cars vss source is 12v.. The output idk about..

 

This is pretty damn cool not gonna lie. Props to you sir!

 

The signal itself is registering fine. I think it's the pulse frequency that needs to be translated. If that's the case, the speedo healer should do the job. It's back ordered right now but I should have it in hand in 2 weeks.

Also, I was somewhat mistaken with my previous post. I think there's a certain amount of error that I'm going to have to deal with in this project, ha. But once I got the car up to operating temperature, I was able to get the gauge's ect reading on point. It reads within 3* F past 120 degrees. I can deal with that. I just set it to read a little hot for my own ease of mind. This was achieved by comparing the gauge readout to my ecu's via hondata s300.