Just got around to installing my Pro10 and the car starts and runs fine, but since removing the factory ignitor, there is no tach signal. I ran the correct wire from the m&w output to the blue tach wire on the dizzy, but the ignitor is part of that tach signal, so what are you guys doing about this, thanks.

 

Also more info on the setup, let me know if there are any red flags in this setup. M&W mounted to front of bay. BKR8E plugs, MSD 8.5mm Wires, Hondata S300. I just want to eliminate any possible issues before I tune.

 

Anyone?

 

which wire off the m&w did you run to the blue wire off the dizzy?

 

How do you have the M&W mounted? Did the box come with little rubber "feet"?

 

Strange, I run a pro-10 with a msd dizzy. Double check you are using the correct pin on the pro-10. Verify your model number and make sure you are using the correct wiring diagram.

 

I am tusing the white/grey "Tacho" 4th pin per the manual and T1 harness going directley to the blue wire on the distributor.

I just have it rigid mounted to the body right behind the pass headlight. I see the newer ones are required to have the rubber feet, so I am going to go get some isolators later and mount it like that.

I am going to go through the whole system and wiring today and double check everything.

Thanks for your input guys.

 

I double checked the wiring and everything looks good going off of the pinouts provided in the s300 index. I just don't know if the H22 distributor is wired different than the B's and maybe that is why I am not getting the tach signal due to the ignitor being removed. I am going to try reinstalling the ignitor but only connect the blue wire and see how that works.

 

Well I tried that and I get a loud buzzing sound from the distributor , so I assume that the ignitor needs to comletley be removed.

 

After some research I found some info, not sure if it correlates with the problem, but apparently the obd2b ecu sends the tach signal and the obd1 ecu does not, so here is the image and the tread that I found this in. The tach worked before ignitor removal so I just want to make sure I dont fry anything by doing this trick.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/167/tachfixgh7.jpg

https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/obd2b-obd1-conversion-tach-doesnt-work-2230515/

 

try to wire it to that blue plug by the driver side firewall.

 

I have tried both at the test plug (where my shift light gets it's signal) also directly at the plug on the dizzy, still nothing. I am convinced that it is either due to the ignitor absense, or an OBD2B issue.

 

did you make your own harness for the m&w or did you buy the t1 harness

 

No, it is a T1 harness that he tapped into my existing jumper harness.

 

did you try running the blue wire from the m&w directly to the tach/gauge cluster?

 

I have NOT tried that yet, I have read some other things about OBD2B and it looks like it might get RPM signsl from the crank position sensor. My head hurts from trying to figure this out.

 

Try it, that's how our car is wired and it works perfect. If it doesn't i owe you a beer!

If the car is running then the ecu is obviously happy with the signal its getting just worry about the cluster.

 

Sweet, thanks for your help man. Hopfully I will be running with you guys at the next USP race.

 

Just saw you are from CO! We wont have the PFC at the race this weekend, still don't have axles for it...

Come find us and grab a beer!

 

I will for sure man!

 

Here is the wiring diagram for a 97-01 prelude...



From this diagram, the ecu does NOT send the tach signal. It comes from the igniter.

In terms of integra's:
98-99 models get the tach singal from the igniter
00-01 get the single from the ecu

However all three (prelude igniter, integra igniter, integra ecm) output the same signal:
For every 200 pulses the tach displays 100rpms.

So on an 00-01 integra you could still drive the tach off the igniter, it doesn't have to come from the ecu.


When I wired my pro-10, I made three harness that come off the unit.

One that goes straight to the battery
One that goes straight to the coil

The other goes to the dizzy wiring and had three wires: tach output, ecu trigger input, power (when the key is turned on)

So all you should have to do is splice your tach output wire from the m&w into the blue wire going into the dizzy.

 

In another thread, Tony said that the Pro10 drives the tach signal, so I am going to try as MO_Spec said and go directly to the cluster and see if that works, since the blue wire is not working.

 

Thats what I'm saying. The blue wire does go directly to the cluster. Unless the wire was cut or there is a short. I'd do a continuity test on that blue wire from the dizzy to the cluster before running an entirely new wire.

 

Okay good call, thanks

 

...okay...So while trying different things with the M&W, I started to get this buzzing sound on the 2nd turn ACC which I believe to be coming from the dizzy, so I thought I would put the stock stuff back in and see if it went away, well after putting it on ACC I felt a big clunk, sounded like the starter, and upon cranking, it cranks for a second or two, then clunks and the car turns off, so I tried the M&W again and it started up then died to being cold and low batt, so I tried again and the clunk/die persists, so I have no F-ing clue whats going on now, and it does not sound good at all, and it seems as if the buzzing sound might be coming from the starter, so I am going to leave it until I can get some input on the situation.