Does anyone have a obd0 car that can tell me if the ecu light is saposed to come off or stay solid when the cars not running and keys in the "on" position...I got a solid light and my car won't start, google says that means there's something wrong internally in my ecu, and it's saposed to blink cel codes if there's something wrong then stop, but it does nothen but come on and never come off?..I dunno if it only blinks codes when running? Somebody with obd0 ecu want to educate me on this? fuel pump primes no spark, engine is obd0 b16a car worked before when it was obd0 i switched to obd1 then blew the ecu cuz battery cable fell off and blew it, so went back to obd0 pw0 ecu and no way will that dizzy attempt to spark, (power at ignitor wire)

 

Mine has always blinked when there's an ecu code, but I'd. Check all your fuses if ur ecu blew, also try someone's that has a known working ecu, electronic problems r a bitch, n what dilo u mean by battery cable fell off, off from where?

 

Solid red light on the ECU is a bad computer. Find a working PR3 or PWO and I bet it will crank. Shoot you can try a PR4 (LS ECU) to see if it will crank.

 

The positive cables pulled out of the clamp that hold it to the terminal, and grounded out to the body of the car (no battery tie downs)hit a bump and It was done

 

CHECK FUSES.

Solid -can- mean your ECU is dead, but OFTEN is a power or ground issue.
Disconnected thermostat ground is very common for this solid CEL!
Blown ECU fuse can do it too - very plausible in your case.

You can disconnect your OBD1 jumper harness and plug in your OBD0 ECU if you still have it.
Turn the key to ON and see if you get the same solid CEL.

 

It is a wirng nightmare tho, fuel pump will turn on, but only if I power it from the battery cuz I cut a13 and 15 but, it worked as it should before I cut them on the key, I get 1st click then prime, then second click, and clicks when it's rolling over, but has that solid light on ecu and no fire I don't no wtf

 

I'm am obd0, running pw0 ecu, checked all fuses, I deffently think its a ground problem. Thermostat is tight, but I went ahead and cut them at the ecu and grounded them to the chase, and ran direct power to the ecu on a13 n 15 but still got the light....the ecu worked last time I used it, possible there was still a short n blew it after I fried my last one...but fuel primes???

 

A12 - main relay
A14 - main relay
B13 - Number 2 fuse. 10A

A13 and A15 power up as well, but shouldn't solid cell you AFAIK.
Those 2 pins verify power to injectors.

 

Yah, I know, there resistor is is spliced in with them. But with them cut there's no fuel pump, so right now I have to put power to them pins for my main relay to come n and prime my pump ( need a Si harness bad)

 

I can't help you.
You keep adding things to your story making the problem impossible to even try to diagnose.

So NOW your main relay isn't working and you are injecting 12volts.
And for some reason you think you need an Si harness?

Anything else?

Troubleshoot your main relay and figure out why it won't work on it's own.

 

LOL sorry, k heres the run down,
i want the si harness because it would be easier to deal with a untouched mpfi harness, because mine is litterly fucked (dpfi) , i got it so hacked its insane but it allways worked just figured a si would be better cuz it would have the injecter wiring and crank angle sensors for dizzy

but any way my relay works. but it wont do anything untill i put power to it because i cut the the two 12v ecu power wires and cant find them to splice back in so im just gitting power from the batter, and they control the relay and fuel pump for some reason

i was obd1 and my battery cable fell off and grounded out to my car and blew the ecu...so i went back to obd0 rather than looking for a new obd1 vtec ecu...so i bought a new td22 dizzy instead and went obd0 with pw0 ecu.

after unhooking the obd0-1 harnees and pluging in ecu and new dizzy i had no fire,,i was lost...but recently discoverd that im gitting a code 0 so im thinking that maybe my ecu was bad, and that was my original question really....

and i also tried a obd1 non vtec p06 before i went obd0 and that didnt start it ither, so i dont no i just wanted to know if code 0 was bad ecu er not lol....

 

im guessing the power wire aint controlling the relay, just adding power, powers up the ecu then, it does its thing,,,,but i got my answer long ago, the ecu is saposed to blink once then turn off if there is no problem and blink codes if there is and stay solid if the ecu is bad or not getting correct power or ground....so thanks guys i got my answer...i tried googling it but couldnt really get a answer

 

I actually had this happen to me recently in my 91 crx with an obd0 b16 swap i put in the car. I have two PW0 ecu's and the first one would give me a solid light on the ecu and I switched it out with the other... started right up.

 

Is this your old working ecu or another one you bought? Where was it stored?
I have a stock PR3 ecu if you need it. PM me.

 

pm'd ya, no reply. how much?

 

I had a solid light after i did a swap. Switched ecus and nothing changed. Got a brand new battery and that actually did the job. I even double checked the other ecu after changing the battery and it was fine also. Just my personal experience. Good luck.

 

Thanks man, my battery is actually toast. I've been using a charger to get it to turn over, it won't keep the charge with out it, all try one from another car thanks for the info