In the quest for more power I want to change my setup, but I need to know how to make it work!

Right now I have an H23 VTEC :

Darton Sleeves 87mm bore
H23 crank 95mm stroke
H23 rods 141.925 mm shot peened
Arias Forged Pistons 11.5:1 compression

Okay so the the plan is buy Eagle/Crower rods and try to modify my setup to be good for turbo. Two questions:

1) How do I counter my 11.5:1 compression? Do I have any other choice than a block guard or thcker head gasket? I take it I can't just get a shorter rod.....cause then TDC would be below the deck...which isn't a good thing right?

2) Should I keep the H23 crank or go with H22?

Hmm what options do I have? I'm not really keen on going for different pistons....since I'm already happy with these ones. Thanks!

 

have the block sleeved by GE and buy pistons and rods, get a set of je flat tops and a good set of lets say cunningham or pauter rods.

 

If you're already planning on changing the rods you might as well just put the right pistons in there while your at it. It is so much labor to change the pistons normally, but you will have it all apart already. Also, a block gaurd won't do anything for your compression and isn't needed since you have sleeves. As for the crank issue, you could go either way. The h23 will make alot more midrange power and torque but will not like to rev high. On the other hand, the h22 will rev alot higher safely. Since you probably won't be able to hook up anyway, the h23 probably won't be of much benefit. Go with the h22, should make more high rpm hp and be more reliable.

 

yeah like i said I already have sleeves...so my pistons are junk? Hmm I don't know what I can do with them

 

why not boost as is.
if driven on street. like 3 psi on pump or even none. 10-15 psi on 116+ octane
the domed pistons aren't ideal, but.
****, I'd have fun

 

I need to take a hacksaw to these things well a spoon head gasket would help I guess....

 

the headgasket from spoon is thinner than your stock one, which would not help, it would make things worse.

 

i was thinking the same thing, running low boost with high compression piston and rods is ok, just DONT pass 10psi, thats what i was told, so i think 5-7 is safe

 

Stupid me....I meant a thicker head gasket....which someone else makes obviously.

 

inlinepro

 

yeah but I don't think I would be happy boosting 3 psi on the street

 

3 psi at 11:5 makes the same overall pressure as 8 psi on 9:1

and who's quicker before full boost hits?
"Things that make you go hmm"

EDIT: and how long do you think it would take for an 11:5 H23 to spool to 3psi....



[Modified by Pelican, 11:58 AM 10/24/2002]

 

i say cometic or inlinepro headgasket and boost as is... with only 3-5 psi... it would rip...

 

ohhhh....I see.....muahahaha I like the way you guys think....but basically to do that properly I need something like a hondata setup right? I mean there's very little margin for error there....

Can you link me to the calculation...and how many actually boost at this high of compression? This would be nice because I could have a good enough NA car until I boost...


[Modified by satan_srv, 12:35 PM 10/24/2002]

 

Personally I would go with a 9:1 compression piston and eagle or crower rods. GO with the JE or Wiseco Rollerwaves..one important thing is what fuel management are you going to use?? Without that all this motor work means nothing...

 

Yeah I would throw and inline headgasket on too, that would be a great idea, **** would be hella fast.

Lee

 

(14.7+Boost psi)/14.7 psi = pressure ratio (VERY USEFUL) (Y axis of Compressor Maps)
Pressure ratio x Compression Ratio = Effective pressure (air pressure before the spark goes off, sort of)

that's why 3psi@11.5:1 can be the same as 7.91psi@9:1

Hondata or another standalone will be very usefull because as your CR increases, boost spikes become even more dangerous. You will always compress the air in the chamber 11.5x. But if something weird happens like WG sticks closed/doesn't open quick enough, that extra boost is multiplied that much more.
But if you're playing with 5-7psi, that's easier to handle and control than 10-15psi.
I think people just shy away because you do have the added danger of things going WAY TOO HIGH...WAY TOO FAST. eh....
Doesn't Kubo run 16:1?
Yeah, she probably runs methanol to cool it off but so what, then you can even run HIGHER boost inside.

The way I see it, whether you cram a shitload of air in and don't squeeze it too much or shove a little bit in and squeeze it a lot, you have the same pressure built up in the end.

Go

 

I have a custom ecu...but I think I will switch to Hondata...fuel management is key, I agree

 

reliable boost control won't hurt either. But yes, Fueling is paramount and most often overlooked

 

I like the theory, but I'm wondering about spool i think the main difference relates to spool...because like someone else said 3psi will take no time to spool, so based on the power, won't I be applying a ton of power at low rpms? How beneficial will that be for my engine?

And in relation to 3psi at 11.5 vs. 8psi at 9.0 will the egts be the same?

I could protect myself by buying a turbo that can produce 6psi couldn't I? So say the WG is 6-7psi and the boost is controlled to 3, could I not grab a turbo that can't spin fast enough to make 6 psi? I mean I'd rather break my turbo before I break my engine

 

Trust me, none of the quick class racers run anywhere near that. I don't want to give away anyones setup, but you're way off. I'll tell you ours....10:1 WITH methanol! Worlds quickest and fastest unibody.

 

Stole Kubo's title.....bastards

 

Sorry to break the news to you, but Kubo hasn't held that title for a long time...

 

well yeah, I'm kinda out of date when it comes to racing

 

I stand corrected. It was a number I had heard, I know now it was wrong.