90 Civic Sedan EX Tranny vs 89 Civic Si Tranny
I found one Tranny from this 90 sedan EX (D16A6) and im thinking to buy it as a back up in case my transmission breaks down but im not sure the fitments ? Is there a difference btw the two internally ? How about my current axle , are they going to fit that EX Tranny?
Thanks in advance !
Thanks in advance !
Just did a research if this EX Tranny same as the 90 91 civic Si then I will need the fly wheel and the clutch in order to work w my 89 Si ...but then again please guys chime in if you know any info about this.....
The 88's have a different clutch shaft out of the transmission than the rest. The axel joints are all the same at the transmission, but can vary at the wheel hub. So you are good to go.
Ok so you are saying "everything" will be plug & play WITHOUT any modifications????
ex transmission is not the same as the si. the ex transmission uses the small bearing diff, and has a 4.0 final drive but same 1-5 and reverse.
your new transmission will bolt right up to your current clutch, your current axles will work just fine.
your new transmission will bolt right up to your current clutch, your current axles will work just fine.
Trending Topics
Small bearing ? Ok all I want to know if I'm going to buy it and replace my current Si one with that EX will my car run just like the Si one ? sorry I'm kinda new to the tranny area .
The gearing will be spaced out a bit further but that's about it. Essentially the only thing that will change the characteristics of the drivability of your car is that difference in final drive ratio. Matter of fact that's the main difference between the DX/EX/Si for that body style.
Oh ok well that's all i want to know ...as long as plug & play I'm good .
Thank you for all the inputs guys ... I appreciated ! I just loved this forums lol
Thank you for all the inputs guys ... I appreciated ! I just loved this forums lol
Zc gearing is identical to a si,
Ex is a little longer geared,
Dx as far as I know the same as ex
Hf has different hubs on the car itself so you need your cv axel and it will bolt in fine,
Std has a 4 speed which is cool if you like long gearing, (70 in 2nd gear)
All 89-91 use the same clutch, 88 has the same pressure plate but different disk,
92-96 and possibly newer (all d series) have the same clutch as the 89-91 with the exception of the throwout bearing.
Long story short,
Any 88-95 civic/crx/delsol trans will work just get the matching clutch ie 89-91 or 92-95 and a hydraulic converter for 92+
Ex is a little longer geared,
Dx as far as I know the same as ex
Hf has different hubs on the car itself so you need your cv axel and it will bolt in fine,
Std has a 4 speed which is cool if you like long gearing, (70 in 2nd gear)
All 89-91 use the same clutch, 88 has the same pressure plate but different disk,
92-96 and possibly newer (all d series) have the same clutch as the 89-91 with the exception of the throwout bearing.
Long story short,
Any 88-95 civic/crx/delsol trans will work just get the matching clutch ie 89-91 or 92-95 and a hydraulic converter for 92+
DX/LX/Si all have the same gearing for the fourth gen. The difference is the final drive set. I've never looked at the EX in detail but my understanding is that the difference holds true and that the final drive set is the difference for the EX as well.
http://www.knology.net/~jediklc/gearratiosdseries.htm
oh, and op, as long as the tranny is not from a 88, you should be fine. and saying you have a ex which only came out in 90-91, you're fine
oh, and op, as long as the tranny is not from a 88, you should be fine. and saying you have a ex which only came out in 90-91, you're fine
Since this is going to be my first time to remove the transmission...what is the hardest part when removing it? And oh the one im looking at its at the trunk yard so all the parts pretty much have been removed .
Bitch pin and long starter bolt, that's the two things I'd point out. The bitch pin is well, it's in the name but it's not so bad after you've done it a couple times. The long starter bolt I'm pointing out mainly as a "don't forget" to remove it. I did that the first time I separated my transmission from my block. No matter how hard I pried I just couldn't get it to separate...and then I found out why LOL
The rest is simple/common sense to figure out(minus the fact that it's pretty heavy but you can catch it with a floor jack and wood).
The rest is simple/common sense to figure out(minus the fact that it's pretty heavy but you can catch it with a floor jack and wood).
Lol I did a little research earlier and to me the parts that really takes a lot of times are the 3 mounts and two axles . And Oh that bitch pin seems like a problem to everyone huh ? I have a feeling it is going to take me the whole day to remove it lol .
bitch pin isn't bad if you have the right tools. use a roll punch, or if you still have A/C, use one of the those bolts, the one with a pointed taper.
don't forget to remove the flywheel dust shield. remember how you took out the speedo cable, and make sure you figure out how it goes back on.
axle nut might be troublesome.... trying to separate the lower ball joint.
.... there should be a diy in the FAQ.
don't forget to remove the flywheel dust shield. remember how you took out the speedo cable, and make sure you figure out how it goes back on.
axle nut might be troublesome.... trying to separate the lower ball joint.
.... there should be a diy in the FAQ.
roll punch. it's basically a center punch, but instead of a point, it has a ball at the end. the ball goes into the hole, and the flat part sits on the pin.

the A/C bolt is tapered almost like these. (pic for reference. couldn't find the one you would find bolting up the a/c)

the A/C bolt is tapered almost like these. (pic for reference. couldn't find the one you would find bolting up the a/c)
i deal with it with the tranny outside of the car. just remove the tranny and drop it down under the car, or even over the engine bay if the car is high enough.
then its easy to punch out. use anything like a screwdriver or anything thin and round. no big deal.
removing it outside of the car is better, you can support the shifter while whacking the roll pin out so its not damaging seals.
then its easy to punch out. use anything like a screwdriver or anything thin and round. no big deal.
removing it outside of the car is better, you can support the shifter while whacking the roll pin out so its not damaging seals.



